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Removing exhaust

Ceramic Never Seez works the best
Any specs? I searched up a ton of stuff....best was always nickel that was easy to get and highest temp rating and at least affordable. 2100 to 2500f no less IMO.

Most of the designs use studs not bolts....so this typically is not an issue, as you are just removing nuts and not bolts from turbo casting.
 
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Once they Gall up, no heat gonna take em out....I feel like its just a matter of time til one snaps. But many have their dealer do their chains, so it will be more a dealer issue i think.

That is a good point. I guess the moral of my post is that before you guys go too far try some heat first. Ive had my exhaust off a bunch of times and no issues so far. (Knock on wood)
 
That is a good point. I guess the moral of my post is that before you guys go too far try some heat first. Ive had my exhaust off a bunch of times and no issues so far. (Knock on wood)
Also I chase the threads after every removal and it cleans them up, always some galling on removal it seems even when they do come out without snapping.

As mentioned, a warm turbo can add the heat easily.

Just one of those things gotta be careful with.
 
Any specs? I searched up a ton of stuff....best was always nickel that was easy to get and highest temp rating and at least affordable. 2100 to 2500f no less IMO.

Most of the designs use studs not bolts....so this typically is not an issue, as you are just removing nuts and not bolts from turbo casting.
Google Walter Rock N Roll
 
Google Walter Rock N Roll
Found it.....says 2500f

Same temp as the nickel stuff I have now.

Looks like about 18 bucks, abit tricky to find.

thanks
Dan
anti-seize.jpg
 
Help for bolt removal. I went a season without removing the exhaust bolts. To avoid problems I used an acetone/transmission fluid mix the day before. Worked great. The two in the blind hole were tougher but just broke them loose and used the mixture again. All good!!
 
Help for bolt removal. I went a season without removing the exhaust bolts. To avoid problems I used an acetone/transmission fluid mix the day before. Worked great. The two in the blind hole were tougher but just broke them loose and used the mixture again. All good!!

Worked with a Turbine Engineer( x employee), and A bunch of us had tried some KROIL penetrating lubricant on a job, we were commenting on how well it worked, and the young engineer had remarked that they use to make their own in large amounts for the very large hardware associated with turbines. His recipe was a 50 - 50 mix of your aforementioned ingredients.

I also used that twice on my muffler bolts before removing. Third time it did not work, but just a bit of heat with a propane torch did the trick. Replaced them at that point whereas they came out hard and they were slightly bent.

Have been using copper anti seize because that is the best one can find locally. Shall order some nickel for this falls maintenance though.
 
Ceramic Never Seez works the best


Beg to differ!

I have a bottle of the Walters ceramic anti-seize and will never use that crap again. It seized a few of my bolts in the turbo. Stuff turns to white powder and you can forget about getting the bolts out cleanly, might as well put a bunch of dirt on the turbo and bolt threads if your going to use that ceramic crap. Pulled the threads right off the bolts thank god and spared the turbo.

I used regular copper and alum anti-seize last time at half/half ratio and never had any problem with it. Bolts came out nice and easy with no issues just like new.
 
On this job now. Have been soaking and heating but they wont budge. Afraid to apply to much force and snap. Buddies sled and pretty sure they have never been touched at 2000 miles.

Got 2 so far

Any new tricks

Is impact gun better than wrench force as as more inpaxt rhan shear twist if that makes sense
 


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