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Reverse Testing

I updated the page a little. Take a look at the new pic 11, pic 13, and pic 14. Read the new description for 11, 13, 14. If it works try bending the brush up (pic 14) and see if that works. If it dont, I would say junk. Let me confirm that Mooseman got the same results for testing it to shift in to D/R.
Take a look at the gears while you are at there. Mooseman and was talking about how the system could be damaged so easy and what could be done (on Yamaha part if they have not to make it more durable).
 

My reverse gear box is still FUBAR. I moved the shift arm that is mounted on the shaft of the servo (a) more towards the forward position (the left most within the range in the top image), which put more pressure onto the fork using the spring in the servo. Although it did work for about 10Km or so, it started skipping/grinding again. Also, reverse would not engage so I guess it was too far. I looked again using a boroscope inside the gear box and the "dog gears" (#11 & 6 in the exploded view) were damaged and worn in a taper.

The servo motors both worked and both had the same position of the shift arm when in forward. so it wasn't an issue with it. My only option now is to replace the gear box. I will perform an autopsy on the old one.
 

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Hi Marshall. Does both shift sensors need to work to shut the flashing D light off? I think the forward sensor is busted so I switched it to the reverse side and put the reverse side on the forward side. I put everything back together and it still does the same thing. Any suggestions?
Thanks Muncher.
 
Sounds like you have the same problem I had with my reverse before. Did you remove the servo motor and moved the shift fork (#10) by hand into forward position to confirm it shifts? You can feel it engage as you push the fork towards the chaincase and turn the secondary clutch. If it seems to be engaging, try to see with a mirror if the dog gears are fully engaging. If all seems to be working fine, try removing the aluminum gasket (the one marked NEW) on the forward sensor switch and putting it back on. If it works, then you likely got an indent on the shifter fork where it contacts the switch. The only thing I would worry about with this fix is that the extended threads of the switch may also contact the fork, preventing it from fully engaging the dog gears (#6 & 11 in the exploded view), causing them to wear and eventually, skip. Maybe you could remove the gasket washer and try screwing in the switch a little at a time until it does work and then find a thinner washer. Thin copper brake line washers could do this.

And also check that your servo motor is working correctly by hooking it up to a battery as per Marshall's write up.
 
Thanks Mooseman. I will try this. I tried testing the servo the way Marshall said and nothing moves. It looks like it is in the forward position. I moved the fork and everything moves smoothly. It is in forward. I'm starting to think the servo is pooched because I can't get it to switch by testing it. If it is pooched will the light on the dash blink? Gears look fine and fork moves easily. Thx for your help. Will update you after I take out washer and see what happens. Will try later today.
 
If the servo is stuck in between gears, then yes, the light would blink as the gear is not fully engaged. Unfortunately, the servo is not cheap but this seems to be the source of your problems.
 
Mooseman said:
My reverse gear box is still FUBAR. I moved the shift arm that is mounted on the shaft of the servo (a) more towards the forward position (the left most within the range in the top image), which put more pressure onto the fork using the spring in the servo. Although it did work for about 10Km or so, it started skipping/grinding again. Also, reverse would not engage so I guess it was too far. I looked again using a boroscope inside the gear box and the "dog gears" (#11 & 6 in the exploded view) were damaged and worn in a taper.

The servo motors both worked and both had the same position of the shift arm when in forward. so it wasn't an issue with it. My only option now is to replace the gear box. I will perform an autopsy on the old one.
Click to expand...

I replaced the reverse gear box and all is working well. One issue I had was with getting the servo motor working correctly. The new one was damaged with my little experiment so the old one went back in. Then, the o-ring was broken (again). Not wanting to wait 3 days for a replacement, I just instant-glued the ends together since it doesn't hold any pressure, just keeps oil from seeping out the top. Then, it wasn't lined up properly with the shift fork and forward wouldn't even work. Then, the last time I put in back in, I tested the engagement by actuating it according to marpolsdofer's method and verifying via the switches that it was fully engaging, it now works flawlessly. Most of the time, we don't even need to move or anything, it just works.

So, what I learned from this is to make sure that the servo motor arm is properly engaged in the slot in the shift fork when re-installing it.

For the failed gear, I will perform the autopsy at a later date under a new thread.
 
Anyone have thoughts on an '07 VL that only shifts into reverse after riding for 20 min? When cold I get no lights or sounds, but if it's warm, works perfect. I can shift it into reverse w/o jumping and rocking, turn it off for 30 min & it quits again. Not really set up for doing a lot of diagnostic stuff, hoping to find a quick cure before I have to take it to shop. Has 760 miles on it, took it apart to look for wiring/sensor issues, no broken wires i can see & sensors don't appear to have water/gunk on them. Thanks
 
If you mean when you push the button and nothing happens (no light, no off beeping), try pushing the reset button and then reverse. Discovered this one last season. It happens to me warm, cold, whenever. Used to be the fix was to turn off sled and re-start and it would work. If yours is cold, I don't recommend this. Anyway, it's better to wait for it to warm up and idle down before engaging reverse.
 
I found the problem! Another poster on here told me to shut it off, hold throttle wide open & turn key back on letting fuel pump cycle, release throttle & start. It worked! Throttle Positioning sensor. Will get around to that later, need to go ride before I get sent off to camp! Thanks for the help!!
 
And I may not have been clear on "warm". I meant I had to ride for 20 min at a fair clip after it dropped off high idle. Curious to see if your method works as well, going to head out after some chow & beer & see what happens. Thanks again
 
Mooseman, was your issue a rapid ratcheting under power - with no power to the track? I barely got home last week. Wondering where to start the tear down. I am right at 5000 miles (07 FX).
 
Mr E said:
Mooseman, was your issue a rapid ratcheting under power - with no power to the track? I barely got home last week. Wondering where to start the tear down. I am right at 5000 miles (07 FX).
Click to expand...

Check track and chain tension. If they seem good pull your chain case cover off.
 
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