twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
Great post showing the steps! Thanks.
Ground Blizzard
Pro
So I woke my Rage up from its summer nap and I noticed a noise like a buzzing rattle? I'm not sure where my noise is coming from but I know it isn't the clutch. The noise will come and go but seems to be staying more than not. I didn't notice the noise when I put it away this spring and it seems to be running fine on the jack stand.
I inspected the donuts and all where there but definitely not in the best of shape, could these still be the source of the noise? I checked the tensioner and it does have the orange dot of death on it. Can anyone who has heard it chime in? Thanks
I inspected the donuts and all where there but definitely not in the best of shape, could these still be the source of the noise? I checked the tensioner and it does have the orange dot of death on it. Can anyone who has heard it chime in? Thanks
06vectorgt
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Ground Blizzard said:So I woke my Rage up from its summer nap and I noticed a noise like a buzzing rattle? I'm not sure where my noise is coming from but I know it isn't the clutch. The noise will come and go but seems to be staying more than not. I didn't notice the noise when I put it away this spring and it seems to be running fine on the jack stand.
I inspected the donuts and all where there but definitely not in the best of shape, could these still be the source of the noise? I checked the tensioner and it does have the orange dot of death on it. Can anyone who has heard it chime in? Thanks
After warm up - will it stop, if so;
Replace the donuts, modify the clamps so they close tighter as well.
Ground Blizzard....
from what you say the noise is new or not an old one. Exhaust noise caused by donuts or slack from its collar will play music when cold but as the engine gets warm & that the piping expand, it will quit. Let the piping soaked up in heat, see if the noise quit after a while so to find out if this is your case. (really messed up donuts however will sing all the time)
As for the loose timing chain.... got no clue what it sounds like;..and have no wish to know either..
from what you say the noise is new or not an old one. Exhaust noise caused by donuts or slack from its collar will play music when cold but as the engine gets warm & that the piping expand, it will quit. Let the piping soaked up in heat, see if the noise quit after a while so to find out if this is your case. (really messed up donuts however will sing all the time)
As for the loose timing chain.... got no clue what it sounds like;..and have no wish to know either..
Ground Blizzard
Pro
Great suggestions... sucky outcome. Fired the sled up and let it get nice and hot. The noise, if anything, became more constant. I checked online and if all it costs is around $130 for the 3 parts and an afternoon, I might just as well bite the bullet. Thanks again for the suggestions.
jlparker77
Expert
Get yourself a mechanics stethoscope first, they are only about $10 and you will be able to decide without a doubt if your cam chain is making noise or if it is something else. You are talking a pretty major repair and an improper diagnosis will really upset you after its back together. I just bought a vector and it had one heck of a knock/rattle coming from the right side of the engine, but with the stethoscope I decided it was a stuck valve(I think) noise loudest on the valve cover bolts, which run into the cam journals. so I changed the oil and it quit. I think i dodged a bullet on that one.
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Ground Blizzard
Pro
jlparker77, I had already done as you suggested and determined that the noise isn't specific to one cylinder or side of the engine. My best guess is it is "valve train noise". Believe me this is not a project I want to do, I would much rather spend my time and money on something else...like lol.
Anyway, I figure I'm already half torn down and the $130 vs $2-3k keeps weighing on my mind. And at my age, I need to preserve all the grey matter I have left. At this point I think it's best just to bite the bullet. Thanks.
Anyway, I figure I'm already half torn down and the $130 vs $2-3k keeps weighing on my mind. And at my age, I need to preserve all the grey matter I have left. At this point I think it's best just to bite the bullet. Thanks.
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
If you're already into it, it would be silly not to replace the tensioner with an updated one.
Hopefully the engine sounds different afterward. I was always surprised at the valvetrain noise this sled has had, right from day one in 2004.
Hopefully the engine sounds different afterward. I was always surprised at the valvetrain noise this sled has had, right from day one in 2004.
06vectorgt
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
twomorestrokes said:If you're already into it, it would be silly not to replace the tensioner with an updated one.
DITTO!
jlparker77
Expert
oh, definitely do it if you are all ready started. Please let us know if this fixes the noise. I am still new to the four strokes (I have two now purchased in less than a year) and am still amazed at the odd noises coming from the engines. My guess would have been that a slapping cam chain would have been very distinguishable on the right side cam chain cover. I am very interested to hear your outcome.
thanks
Jade
thanks
Jade
Ground Blizzard
Pro
It looks like the parts will take a week or 2 to arrive. I'll update when done and if the noise is still there........well.......
Ground Blizzard
Pro
Won't Start now
Well, I got my parts yesterday and made it through the tear down and reassembly part. It was trying and time consuming due to the small spaces you have to work with but I got it done. And now my worst fear...it won't start . I have spark but even with a shot of starter fluid it won't pop or even attempt to pop.
When I remove the old tensioner I immediately installed the new one, tightened it down, pulled the little tab out and put the new bolt and washer in. I can't figure it out and don't have a clue how to proceed and I'm losing my patience fast. Anyone have any insight that they can share?
Well, I got my parts yesterday and made it through the tear down and reassembly part. It was trying and time consuming due to the small spaces you have to work with but I got it done. And now my worst fear...it won't start . I have spark but even with a shot of starter fluid it won't pop or even attempt to pop.
When I remove the old tensioner I immediately installed the new one, tightened it down, pulled the little tab out and put the new bolt and washer in. I can't figure it out and don't have a clue how to proceed and I'm losing my patience fast. Anyone have any insight that they can share?
Bradford
Expert
Re: Won't Start now
Did you have it running just before you replaced the tensioner? It might be a simple case of loosing its fuel prime. If I leave mine set for a month or so, it won't start unless I prime the carbs first
From reading your post, it looks like the motor was NOT turned over while the tensioner was out...
Brad
Ground Blizzard said:Well, I got my parts yesterday and made it through the tear down and reassembly part. It was trying and time consuming due to the small spaces you have to work with but I got it done. And now my worst fear...it won't start . I have spark but even with a shot of starter fluid it won't pop or even attempt to pop.
When I remove the old tensioner I immediately installed the new one, tightened it down, pulled the little tab out and put the new bolt and washer in. I can't figure it out and don't have a clue how to proceed and I'm losing my patience fast. Anyone have any insight that they can share?
Did you have it running just before you replaced the tensioner? It might be a simple case of loosing its fuel prime. If I leave mine set for a month or so, it won't start unless I prime the carbs first
From reading your post, it looks like the motor was NOT turned over while the tensioner was out...
Brad
Ground Blizzard
Pro
Hello and thanks for the reply. I have gotten it to backfired a couple of times now but totally erratic and twice I've seen the head light come on right after it would turn over...weird. Maybe my CDI is bad?
I know I didn't turn the motor over because the battery was out of the sled but I'm thinking I did grab the primary clutch. I did this in order to move the engine back or forth to gain some space. I'm pretty sure I did this before I put in the new tensioner in. I remember not having enough clearance because of the little tab on the new tensioner but I still don't think I turned the primary....it was such a long day and I just don't remember.
Are you thinking that the motor has turned and now my timing is off? If so do you have any idea how I would correct it? Thanks for your help. Jim
I know I didn't turn the motor over because the battery was out of the sled but I'm thinking I did grab the primary clutch. I did this in order to move the engine back or forth to gain some space. I'm pretty sure I did this before I put in the new tensioner in. I remember not having enough clearance because of the little tab on the new tensioner but I still don't think I turned the primary....it was such a long day and I just don't remember.
Are you thinking that the motor has turned and now my timing is off? If so do you have any idea how I would correct it? Thanks for your help. Jim
Bradford
Expert
Ground Blizzard said:Hello and thanks for the reply. I have gotten it to backfired a couple of times now but totally erratic and twice I've seen the head light come on right after it would turn over...weird. Maybe my CDI is bad?
I know I didn't turn the motor over because the battery was out of the sled but I'm thinking I did grab the primary clutch. I did this in order to move the engine back or forth to gain some space. I'm pretty sure I did this before I put in the new tensioner in. I remember not having enough clearance because of the little tab on the new tensioner but I still don't think I turned the primary....it was such a long day and I just don't remember.
Are you thinking that the motor has turned and now my timing is off? If so do you have any idea how I would correct it? Thanks for your help. Jim
I really don't know if moving the primary would jump the timing or how to fix it if it did. I'm just throwing thoughts out there.
Anyone else??
I hope you find a simple fix!
Brad
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