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Second ride report

caleb, that is a bummer! do you think it had to do with the skid relocation? gives you an excuse for more modding. :D

with any luck my timbersled rear skid will be here this week and i'll start building it and project nytro diet begins. hoping to take close to 100lbs off the sled without sacrificing reliability.

we gotta get someone to get us an under tunnel exhaust and a seat with storage for non turboed units.

keep us posted with your mods, love reading on your adventures. ski
 

I don't think it had to do with the skid location, it was not set back at all. It was just a really hard mound in the snow and was the perfect shape to push the track into the rail tips. Thank god I have the Expert as all that bent was a cross shaft. I think it would have destroyed a stock skid. I will be adding and anti-stab kit though.

I will be going back to a 15" wide track. The 16" wide handled weird and I never really could get used to it. Plus I think the increased track speed of the 15" wide(I will be gearing up) will do far more for climbing than the extra inch in width. Lots of powdercoating, shock work, tunnel work, and hopefully some HP increases for this summer. I will post pics as I tear it down and put it back together.
 
And so it begins...

I'm completely re-doing the tunnel so I'll take more pics as I work on it. I promise it will look sick when done and be extremely strong.
 

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Nikolai said:
I will be going back to a 15" wide track. The 16" wide handled weird and I never really could get used to it. Plus I think the increased track speed of the 15" wide(I will be gearing up) will do far more for climbing than the extra inch in width.

What was the handling weird part? can you expound?

Am curious, if you were experiencing the driver issue on these? would better drivers possibly have solved the "weird" handling?

was it just harder to carve? did it vibrate? did it...?
 
Laying it over was like an on/off switch. It either wanted to be up right or on it's side. I personally have not seen much if any difference from a 16" wide track and I want the maneuverability back. I'm going to switch to 20/39 gearing at the same time. I was going to do 21/40 but it uses a larger chain. With 20/39 you can use the stock chain(I currently have 20/40 gearing).

So far the plan is Rev 440 race shocks up front, the tunnel work, 144x15x2.5, Avid drivers, reinforce the sub frame, rear shock work and 8" wheels, and hopefully some motor stuff. Nothing major, mostly just way better suspension and a stronger chassis.
 
Better boards off and ready to discard. I have to finish drilling out some rivets and then I can start making the templates for the new running boards.
 

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am sure someone woudl buy those better boards assuming they are not trashed...
 
Nikolai said:
With the camo extreme my sled was only topping out at around 65 mph. I need more speed for jumping.

To get more speed don't you need more power? I have ridden with guys with turbo nytro's and they are pulling 90 mph track speeds with 20/40 gearing. I would think that taller gearing would make you slower.... I guess we shale see.
 
Got some tunnel parts today. The cardboard is just a mock up of what the new tunnel pieces will be. Once I get the rest of my parts I'll make some final measurements and make what I want out of very thin sheetmetal, and then I'll take that to the shop to have the final ones waterjet cut. Not sure yet if I'm doing .080 or .093.

The running board/tunnel braces are from a 2005 SnoPro and will tie both suspension mounts, the front footrests, and side extrusions into them. The extrusion is from a 2005 KingCat(AC's extrusion is CHEAP, only $23 ea.) and will run back 30" before angling(sp?) back in towards the tunnel. The remainder will be cut into 3" pieces and riveted on top of the braces for traction. In between each slot in the running board part of the brace will be two 1" flared holes for snow evacuation and added strength. The hole flaring tools are only $40 from MitlerBrothers and work extremely well.

And last but not least I have four under tunnel 440 Rev braces in which two will mount on the underside of the each runningboard/tunnel for even more rigidity(these are very strong). 1"x1 1/2" aluminum angle will then run on the outside of the extrusion the entire length to keep it from ever sagging.

No matter how big the rider or the jump, there is no way my running boards will ever bend by the time I'm done. I'll keep posting pics as I slowly finish up the tunnel.
 

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