Nikolai I read through the entire thread now. Good stuff. I am shopping for a Nytro right now. I am switching over from a doo as well.
I may have missed something in the thread, but why are you swicthing from the Fox floats to the 440 racing shocks?
I may have missed something in the thread, but why are you swicthing from the Fox floats to the 440 racing shocks?
HYFLYR
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Fox floats dont work that well for big jumping unless you have the evols, a spring setup is far superior to tune compression and rebound for big hits.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Easy Rider
Pro
Nikolai said:Here's a pic of the four Ski-Doo 440 braces. Pretty much done fitting everything, just have to buck a couple hundred rivets now
Looking good! I was wondering if the Doo 440 braces would work on my new XTX and you have just answered my question. Got to order braces now! Thanks!
r0tax
Pro
HYFLYR said:
I have just read that the Float 2s are suppose to work better for rebound on hard / quick hits.
Float 1s are also suppose to be upgradeable.
I found info at Tom's Shock something or other.
Search google for Float 2...should be at the top.
I think the Floats will work fine for most back country pow boondockers.. But by the sounds of it, not the "best" option for huge air and banging through mogels... But then again, they've got to be better than stock, soooo..
I'm waiting for a quote on the Float 2's from Tom's "w/e name is"..and will determine weather I'm better off buying used Float 1s and upgrading, or just straight out going with Float 2s new.
All I know is the front end on the Nytro is NOT the front end I had on my Rev, and I hope the shocks will help with that.. The Rev loves to be hammered through mogels..the Nytro..doesn't so much.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The Floats are definitely better than stock and will be fine for 90% of people. I just wanted big air shocks.
I'm taking the subframe, all four a-arms, and spindles in this weekend to get reinforced. I'll post pics when I get them back.
I'm taking the subframe, all four a-arms, and spindles in this weekend to get reinforced. I'll post pics when I get them back.
HYFLYR
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Yeah, i read about the float 2's. Sounds like a descent setup, the evols are even a nice ride and easy to adjust for bigger hits just spendy compared to what you can find a really good set of race shocks for. This should be a fun sled to ride when you get done caleb, just wait to you get to ride the turbo and super im building, next your gonna need boost, lol.
r0tax
Pro
yep, i was just asking a buddy when we'll start seeing huge/long air on a turbo 4s.
with the turbo speed, you could get some RETARDED distance/air records.
as long as its landable..h3ll even its not...it'll look good!
with the turbo speed, you could get some RETARDED distance/air records.
as long as its landable..h3ll even its not...it'll look good!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Still waiting on the dimple die for the running boards but I finished the edge extrusion and all the PIA footwell stuff. I got my footwell supports riveted on and had to do some trimming to the upper part that rivets to the tunnel so it would look a little better(by the black "F"). I also had to cut out some pieces to fit between the tunnel and bar that goes across the top of your foot. It's amazing how long all the little stuff takes. I did get to try out the new bandsaw though which cuts through aluminum like butter.
Learned how to post big pics
Learned how to post big pics
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Here's a full pic. I had to attach the bulkhead to make sure everything fit together just right. I don't want to have to alter anything after the powdercoating.
CROW
Pro
Could you post a couple of pics of what the tools and process looks like when you using this type of rivet? I've read quite a few posts about it, but never any pics with detail...
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Sure thing. A high speed air drill helps a lot in making cleaner holes as does a high quality center punch(above the drill). The clecos(top left) hold the materials together tight so you can fit everything together before riveting it. The different colors are different sizes. I have silver(#3), copper(#4), black(#5), and gold(#6) in that order from smallest to largest. There are basic clecos that use pliers to open them up, and there are butterfly clecos that you just tighten by hand. The butterfly clecos work well with multiple pieces because they cinch up tighter. The other clamps are just examples of what else is available. The top right is the air gun which is different from an air hammer(which will work). The actual rivet guns work better as you can adjust the pressure way down. For 99% of riveting work a 3x gun will be perfect. In the bottom right are the bucking bars which you can get in all different shapes and sizes. The heavier the bar the easier it is to buck them.
You basically just put the correct size bit in the air gun and hammer the head of the rivet. This causes the bar(which is on the backside of the rivet to mushroom the rivet. They are great because they are extremely strong, lightweight, will never loosen, cheap, have the ability to fill ovaled holes, and are very easy to drill out since they're aluminum. There are soft and hard rivets, you want hard rivets. Soft rivets are not structural.
They also make gauges for determining the correct length rivet and how much you should mushroom it. The rivet(before bucking) should poke through the hole approx 1 1/2 times the diameter of the rivet. If you flatten the rivet on the backside too much you will loose strength.
Oh yeah, a #3 rivet uses a #40 drill bit, a #4 rivet uses a #30 drill bit, a # 5 rivet uses a #21 drill bit, and the number #6 rivets use a #11 drill bit.
If there is anything else you explained just let me know.
***In the second pic is a picture of the rivet on the left. In the middle is a flush rivet and the tool for it is on the right. If you want to be flush with the material, you countersink the hole and use flush rivets.
You basically just put the correct size bit in the air gun and hammer the head of the rivet. This causes the bar(which is on the backside of the rivet to mushroom the rivet. They are great because they are extremely strong, lightweight, will never loosen, cheap, have the ability to fill ovaled holes, and are very easy to drill out since they're aluminum. There are soft and hard rivets, you want hard rivets. Soft rivets are not structural.
They also make gauges for determining the correct length rivet and how much you should mushroom it. The rivet(before bucking) should poke through the hole approx 1 1/2 times the diameter of the rivet. If you flatten the rivet on the backside too much you will loose strength.
Oh yeah, a #3 rivet uses a #40 drill bit, a #4 rivet uses a #30 drill bit, a # 5 rivet uses a #21 drill bit, and the number #6 rivets use a #11 drill bit.
If there is anything else you explained just let me know.
***In the second pic is a picture of the rivet on the left. In the middle is a flush rivet and the tool for it is on the right. If you want to be flush with the material, you countersink the hole and use flush rivets.
WOW you have been busy....should be nothing folding up this winter. Well I see you have her stripped to the bare bones....gonna powder the entire thing then?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Everything is getting powder coated except the main bulkhead.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Finally got my 1" dimple die and bought a $85 unibit to drill the 1" holes. The dimple die worked sweet. I laid out all my holes, drilled them, removed the tunnel pieces, and then flared them in a little hand press. Only thing left to do now is rivet everything and weld the extrusion and rear bumper.
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