Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
If anyone else is interested in ski-doo 440 shocks, a guy is selling brand new ones off an 07 race sled. You might be able to get a really good deal but I have no idea how much he wants since it's make an offer.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93494
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93494
I am very impressed with your work on the tunnel. I like it when somebody do their own work 
Where did you get the 1" dimple die and unibit to drill the 1" holes.
Where did you get the 1" dimple die and unibit to drill the 1" holes.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The unibit came from a local hardware store and got the dimple die from www.trick-tools.com, they had the nicest one. If your working with .063 or less you can get away with a flaring tool which are about half the price.
FYI I just weighed my stock tunnel. With tail light and drop bracket but no muffler cover or flap it weighed 43 lbs.
Rx1M5
Rx1M5
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Edit: Without the muffler shield but with the rear bumper it weighs 54 lbs... 
Is that your new tunnnel weight?
Rx1M5
Rx1M5
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Yes.
I got my Expert-X parts today which is good, that was the last of what I needed to powdercoat. I also got my upper a-arm braces cut out. I wanted to brace them a little without making them too strong so they'll still bend before the subframe in a hard hit. And I got my big subframe brace cutout and fitted.
I bolted up my a-arms to make sure the subframe was straight and the right lower a-arm was further back than it should be. I new it was tweaked a little, but I couldn't for the life of me figure out where on the subframe it was bent. So...I braced the back and front of the rear bolts holes(see pics) and redrilled the hole about 3/16" over and it pushed the a-arm foward right where it needs to be. Seemed like the easiest solution.
I got my Expert-X parts today which is good, that was the last of what I needed to powdercoat. I also got my upper a-arm braces cut out. I wanted to brace them a little without making them too strong so they'll still bend before the subframe in a hard hit. And I got my big subframe brace cutout and fitted.
I bolted up my a-arms to make sure the subframe was straight and the right lower a-arm was further back than it should be. I new it was tweaked a little, but I couldn't for the life of me figure out where on the subframe it was bent. So...I braced the back and front of the rear bolts holes(see pics) and redrilled the hole about 3/16" over and it pushed the a-arm foward right where it needs to be. Seemed like the easiest solution.
Calab, That looks REALLY good!
You in the wrong business!
Did you drop your shocks off to who I told you about, out here in the valley??
You in the wrong business!
Did you drop your shocks off to who I told you about, out here in the valley??
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I used Jeff from Miller Marine. I'm sure you know who he his. He does awesome work and helped me out a ton when I had my Rev.
Yes I have always wanted to get a Sno-hawk from them, just can't justify the oddity.
Hit up Not-a-doo on dootalk he does MANY of the local sno-x guys race shocks and has done Irondog racers shocks. (Actually I'm pretty sure you knew of him when you had your diamond drive Rev)
Guys this isn't Nikolai's first venture into making a B/A custom unique sled. I was actually surprized he waited as long as he did before diving into it!!
Pure proof of how well the FX Nytro's are built!
Hit up Not-a-doo on dootalk he does MANY of the local sno-x guys race shocks and has done Irondog racers shocks. (Actually I'm pretty sure you knew of him when you had your diamond drive Rev)
Guys this isn't Nikolai's first venture into making a B/A custom unique sled. I was actually surprized he waited as long as he did before diving into it!!
Pure proof of how well the FX Nytro's are built!
08NitroRTX said:
nah, I hear they are crap...cant fly...and are gutless
Nikolai, I am thinking of doing the same type of subframe re-inforcing. What thickness of plate did you use? Do you just plan on MIG welding it on? Is the subframe Chromoly and can you just use standard ER70S-6 wire?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The sub frame plate is 3/16"(a-arm braces are thinner). I'm not actually doing the welding. Right now I'm only setup to ARC weld. I'm just trying to save a bunch of money by making all my own braces, then I only have to pay an hour shop fee to weld.
I did buy some 4130 tubing to reinforce the lower a-arms, sleeve my rear bumper, and some 1/4" aluminum plate for the spindle reinforcements. I'll cut all that stuff tomorrow.
And I got all four shocks back today and dropped my tie rod ends off at the machine shop to get the 2.5mm knocked off.
I did buy some 4130 tubing to reinforce the lower a-arms, sleeve my rear bumper, and some 1/4" aluminum plate for the spindle reinforcements. I'll cut all that stuff tomorrow.
And I got all four shocks back today and dropped my tie rod ends off at the machine shop to get the 2.5mm knocked off.
Crewchief47
Lifetime Member
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Snafu,
Please take the time to update your location in your profile, site rules.
Thanks!
Please take the time to update your location in your profile, site rules.
Thanks!
I'm sure the subframe is mild steel which is why it bends so easy. Usually when I make a brace like that I use .080 Cro moly plate then try to get a break in it some place to add strength. If you look at the subframe the bending forces will be mostly through the width of the reinforcement not across it so it doesn't need to be super thick especially if you use good material. Get your cro moly from these guys. If you do a cromoly brace use mild steel wire to weld it to the subframe and it will never give you any grief.
www.aircraftspruce.com
Rx1M5
www.aircraftspruce.com
Rx1M5
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