Janne339
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
What is the problem if the belt and the inner secondary sheave are hot but the outer secondary sheave is not? Primary is cool.
jonlafon1
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What's your offset at? Any marks on the secondary faces?. Guessing offset is incorrect or secondary spring twist(side pressure) is incorrect..
this on a viper?
this on a viper?
Janne339
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Sidewinder 2021 LTX stock tune.
Was testing a 39/33 helix with cat yellow spring. Heavy hitter and stock spring in primary. New experience for me with hot inner sheave and cool outer?
No marks on the secondary faces. 8jp belt.
jonlafon1
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The inner PRIMARY clutch is always hotter based on its location. But the secondary usually has both sheaves close in temps..
Get your offset around 57.5mm- 57.9 on that machine.. What twist on that yellow? That's a pretty soft spring. Keep increasing twist and see if it cools the belt and secondary
Get your offset around 57.5mm- 57.9 on that machine.. What twist on that yellow? That's a pretty soft spring. Keep increasing twist and see if it cools the belt and secondary
Janne339
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Thanks!
Its different tangs on cat springs but I guess twist = 70 degrees.
Its different tangs on cat springs but I guess twist = 70 degrees.
jonlafon1
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Yes. Different tangs. But don’t be concerned about that. Just twist it more and see what happens with temps on clutches and belt. Keep going higher until your temps are good. Might have to adjust the weights slightly along the way. You will even feel when the twist is not high enough. You can actually feel the belt slipping in the secondary. And of coarse the temps will be high. Mind telling me what you have the heavy hitters at? Like where do you have the weight. Heel, middle, tip
Janne339
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
HHY 58
1/2" in heel, smallest steel bolt in midle, aluminium in top.
8800-8900 rpm then drops to 8700 rpm full shift.
Sled feels great but don't like the hot belt and hot inner secondary sheave? Weard that outer secondary sheave is not, it's cool??
My old Viper turbo with button secondary was way easier..
Winder roller secondary maybe needs different helix and stiffer springs?
1/2" in heel, smallest steel bolt in midle, aluminium in top.
8800-8900 rpm then drops to 8700 rpm full shift.
Sled feels great but don't like the hot belt and hot inner secondary sheave? Weard that outer secondary sheave is not, it's cool??
My old Viper turbo with button secondary was way easier..
Winder roller secondary maybe needs different helix and stiffer springs?
jonlafon1
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What's the total weight your running on the Heavy hitters? When I get a chance to double check mine I will PM you with a suggestion. I run mine loaded much different then what your doing.. Any chance you reached out to thunder products on what they recommend for weight and placement in each hole?
DID YOU check your offset?
DID YOU check your offset?
Janne339
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Offset 60-61 mm..
jonlafon1
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NO GOOD at those numbers!! 57.5mm-58mm is the sweet spot.
jonlafon1
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https://ty4stroke.com/threads/lots-of-testing-and-believe-we-have-the-offset-nailed-down.162304/
many other threads on this also.. But this is the most recent
many other threads on this also.. But this is the most recent
Janne339
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Ok, gonna remove the washer behind secondary.
jonlafon1
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Unfortunate that wont solve your problems. You will probably have to machine 2mm-3mm off the stub on the secondary. Take a measurement with that washer removed. You have to get your offset to the number range I listed!
ALSO if you have blown any belts you should make sure the stub shaft (where the PRIMARY clutch attaches) has not moved.. IF IT HAS moved you need to remove and reinstall BEFORE taking any measurement for the offset..
Your inner sheave is hot because secondary is too far out, making belt force more on inner sheave. You need to move secondary inward.
Remove shim behind secondary (1mm), then, remove snapring on Jackshaft (1mm) = 2mm total. This should put you close to perfect alignment.
Even with snapring removed, bearing won't move, so cheap way to move clutch in without maching.
Remove shim behind secondary (1mm), then, remove snapring on Jackshaft (1mm) = 2mm total. This should put you close to perfect alignment.
Even with snapring removed, bearing won't move, so cheap way to move clutch in without maching.
fourload
TY 4 Stroke Master
The snap ring is actually 1.5 mm. I was at 60.1 now at 57.6 with no ring and washer. Never had a belt blower at 60.1 but I figured WTH and did 57.6. If the hurricane bar says 57.6 that is good enough for me. Don’t forget to cut your plug an equal amount.
