Setting up the ‘24 LTX-GT EPS

[KnappAttack]

I was just surprised to find the loose spindle bolt, thats something that could take a guys life if it came off at speed! The rest of it is no surprise as been dealing with that for years.

 

[fatchance]

Also tack weld tensioner bolts & ROV elimination.

All this stuff is fresh on the brain lately Mike!

Cut the secondary hub so proper offset can be achieved and while you're at it cut the spacer so the secondary has no float. Tighten all the clamps to every hose.

 

[number1kyster]

FYI, Tommcat performance posted yesterday that he has had (3) 2024 Cat 998T’s come through the shop that had loose primary clutch bolts. One more thing to check.

 

[Upstater57]

Check Everything!

The 25' model year sleds with 998's will be made from the stuff in the bottom of the parts bins to use it all up.

 

[SnoWarrior]

My 2024 the vent line for the fuel tank was crimped in 2 places from the way it was routed.
Glad I found it.....
I had to replace it, it was like that for so long, the line was completely blocked off.

 

[Renegade XRS 900R]

Hey gang. Batting order to set up the new ‘24 LTX-GT EPS. Before the first ride-Precision EFI driveshaft saver. Copper anti-seize for muffler bolts. Duraflex scratchers, mirrors and XL tunnel bag are on. At the 500 mile point, engine oil/filter, DMC top gear and brass shift pads. Seems like the major items for year one. This will be a lonnnnnng term sled, and lead a relatively gentle life. Inputs appreciated!!!!

I would suggest the latest replacement lower driveshaft bearing/collar as a better long term fix.one and done from BARN OF PARTS .Dont forget to spot Drill shaft and locktite 3 set .screws.Might want to consider the precision e.f.i. Chain case tensioner, while case is opened up,add the BOP OIL TANK GASKET

 

[KnappAttack]

I would suggest the latest replacement lower driveshaft bearing/collar as a better long term fix.one and done from BARN OF PARTS .Dont forget to spot Drill shaft and locktite

Or the shaft saver which is much more simple to install in a new machine.

Just make sure to install it properly when normalizing the bearing on to the shaft so it doesn't flex the chassis and crack it down the line or pulse the brake.

 

[STAIN]

I would suggest the latest replacement lower driveshaft bearing/collar as a better long term fix.one and done from BARN OF PARTS .Dont forget to spot Drill shaft and locktite

I just ordered another of these for a friend who jumped ship from Polaris to a new Sidewinder this year. It will be the 5th one I have installed, 2nd on a brand-new sled.

 

[Richard Hodgins]

I think i am more keen on the Hi-tec Mechanical driveshaft solution that adds a 2nd bearing and runs in grease. I ran the shaftsaver since new on my last sled and after 15,000kms it STILL ended up slipping and wore the shaft. I also like that the hi-tec kit strengthens the tunnel at the same time.

 

[1nc 2000]

It doesn't strengthen the tunnel any more than the factory plate and brake caliper does.
Bolts in the 3 same bolt holes.
Outside of those holes it will still flex.

 

[Richard Hodgins]

It doesn't strengthen the tunnel any more than the factory plate and brake caliper does.
Bolts in the 3 same bolt holes.
Outside of those holes it will still flex.

I'm not sure how it WOULDNT strengthen the tunnel? Its adding a second brace to it that is flat on the tunnel and sandwiches the tunnel to the caliper. The caliper only contacts the tunnel around the 3 mounting bolts and the factory thin plate on the inside would add nothing for rigidity so this kit has to add rigidity and strength. There's a reason some tunnels are cracking here (I think we've also seen videos of caliper shacking/vibrating on the stand with improperly installed shaftsavers).

 

[1nc 2000]

The tunnel will still flex outside of the 3 bolt holes.

 

[STAIN]

Hi-tec Mechanical driveshaft solution that adds a 2nd bearing and runs in grease.

I saw this kit. I am not sure how it keeps the bearing from spinning on the shaft. Maybe I missed something.

 

[KnappAttack]

I saw this kit. I am not sure how it keeps the bearing from spinning on the shaft. Maybe I missed something.

I dont see it either, and it sounds like it doesn't. Just makes the shaft greaseable, I believe the thought is because the chain case side is running in oil and spins on that chain case side, wear on that side of the shaft is non existent, which makes sense, but now you will have two bearings spinning on the shaft with this expensive setup. To my way of thinking, I dont want the bearing spinning in the first place, so I have no interest this second greaseable additional bearing kit.

I have found the BOP shaft saver wedge to be the ticket when installed on a good shaft. I'm going to use it on my new 2023 which I have found to be a much tighter fit as well. I have a .005" slip fit on it with the bearing. Shaft saver just came today and I'm going to need to fit it into the smaller ID of the 2023 shaft as well. It won't slide in as it stands, so honing out the ID of the shaft or turning down the saver will be required.

Making it not wobble and flex the chassis is not hard at all when normalizing the bearing to the shaft, and I've never had one spin in tens of thousands of miles on all the machines I've ever installed them on. I always check the runout with a dial indicator to confirm there is ZERO wobble. IMO its the best setup to keep the bearing from spinning out of all the things on the market, and prevents problems as long as its installed properly which means normalizing on the shaft and getting torqued properly which means more than what's needed. People are afraid to tighten them up for whatever reason I don't know.

 

[Clintww]

I dont see it either, and it sounds like it doesn't. Just makes the shaft greaseable, I believe the thought is because the chain case side is running in oil and spins on that chain case side, wear on that side of the shaft is non existent, which makes sense, but now you will have two bearings spinning on the shaft with this expensive setup. To my way of thinking, I dont want the bearing spinning in the first place, so I have no interest this second greaseable additional bearing kit.

I have found the BOP shaft saver wedge to be the ticket when installed on a good shaft. I'm going to use it on my new 2023 which I have found to be a much tighter fit as well. I have a .005" slip fit on it with the bearing. Shaft saver just came today and I'm going to need to fit it into the smaller ID of the 2023 shaft as well. It won't slide in as it stands, so honing out the ID of the shaft or turning down the saver will be required.

Making it not wobble and flex the chassis is not hard at all when normalizing the bearing to the shaft, and I've never had one spin in tens of thousands of miles on all the machines I've ever installed them on. I always check the runout with a dial indicator to confirm there is ZERO wobble. IMO its the best setup to keep the bearing from spinning out of all the things on the market, and prevents problems as long as its installed properly which means normalizing on the shaft and getting torqued properly which means more than what's needed. People are afraid to tighten them up for whatever reason I don't know.

Hey Mike, when checking with a dial indicator, what do you measure against? The brake housing, the shaft, or the tunnel? I assume normalizing the bearing means making sure it is in it's "home" position so to speak. It isn't crooked in the outer mount or on the shaft before torqueing the shaft saver. I believe I read how you do this in another post, but I don't remember seeing how you measure any runout.