Sidewinder Year to Year Performance

[fatchance]

I've had the same thoughts......using an oscillating tool to cut them, but was afraid to jack it up. You might have the opportune time in the short future to to test your cutting skills on a section of bad track. Keep me posted on the results.

Actually of I'm not mistaken the replacement Rip II will not have the quiet pads. I'm pretty sure the replacement Rip II on my 17' didn't have them?

 

[Fleecer]

You got that track lean and mean .. looks like a bit of chatter on the rubber on those rear wheels. You normally ran no studs and now your running them, is your studs causing the marks on your wheels?

Yes, some wear and tear on the wheels from studs, as previous owner studded the track. I pulled off the 1.25 and installed a leaner SRX track. Now.....it's got one stud.....me.....the driver!! Lol

 

[Turboflash]

I've had the same thoughts......using an oscillating tool to cut them, but was afraid to jack it up. You might have the opportune time in the short future to to test your cutting skills on a section of bad track. Keep me posted on the results.

I have always relieved stud heads wherever they intersect quiet track. Pic shows a 15/16" dia. hole saw with wood as a stop, that has an arbor mounted in it. I use washers to adjust how deep saw cuts. I first drill track, then use this tool wherever needed. To remove the rubber, I just use a 45 deg diagonal cutter. Remove the rubber in circle cut by hole saw to depth of thickness of head in stud. Takes time but works great. Difference - on stand sounds like there's no studs, on snow testing, my Dragy says it matters.

 

[Turboflash]

Actually of I'm not mistaken the replacement Rip II will not have the quiet pads. I'm pretty sure the replacement Rip II on my 17' didn't have them?

To get 1.25 RipII you'd have to order from either Cat or Yamaha. Aftermarket RipII are usually fully clipped and no quiet track.

 

[KnappAttack]

To get 1.25 RipII you'd have to order from either Cat or Yamaha. Aftermarket RipII are usually fully clipped and no quiet track.

Thats what I'm running now is the 1.25" Rip2 aftermarket fully clipped and no quiet lugs. I find it to be the better track. The stock track does alot of stretching to settle in, the aftermarket does not. Not sure why that would be the case, just what I have found. I never had to tighten the aftermarket track even once in 1500 miles, the stock Rip2 track needed tightening continually till it settled in somewhere around 3500 miles or so.

 

[Motorhead]

Didn't realize the difference between the stock Ripll and the aftermarket one.
Yes I have noticed how that stock style Ripll stretches a lot, but what I do like about it, although it's a pain to stud, is how QUIET it really is when compared to other tracks that I have tried! I don't like a howl on my tracks now, So, how noisy is this aftermarket Ripll when cruising at higher speeds?

 

[KnappAttack]

Didn't realize the difference between the stock Ripll and the aftermarket one.
Yes I have noticed how that stock style Ripll stretches a lot, but what I do like about it, although it's a pain to stud, is how QUIET it really is when compared to other tracks that I have tried! I don't like a howl on my tracks now, So, how noisy is this aftermarket Ripll when cruising at higher speeds?

I did not find any difference or increase in noise between the quiet lugs on the stock track or no quiet lugs on the aftermarket Rip2. I was really expecting it to be louder as my Doo's had very noisy tracks under them without the quiet lugs, but for whatever reason, I find the aftermarket track to provide zero increase in noise, absolutely no difference that I could hear.

Maybe because the Doo tracks were single ply vs the two ply difference? Doo even stagers their wheels on the rear suspension to decrease the vibrations and noise and they are still irritating, Cat does not, but either way I've never noticed track noise on the Cat ProCross like on the Doos.

It was a whole lot easier to stud without the quiet lugs, that is certain. I ver must dislike the stock quote track and dont like the fact it wants fully clipped. I in fact fully clipped my stock track too. IMO the quiet lugs slow the sled down a bit. Aftermarket non-quiet lug track seems to roll easier and is defiantly more flexible than the stock track after broken in.

 

[Motorhead]

I did not find any difference or increase in noise between the quiet lugs on the stock track or no quiet lugs on the aftermarket Rip2. I was really expecting it to be louder as my Doo's had very noisy tracks under them without the quiet lugs, but for whatever reason, I find the aftermarket track to provide zero increase in noise, absolutely no difference that I could hear.

Maybe because the Doo tracks were single ply vs the two ply difference? Doo even stagers their wheels on the rear suspension to decrease the vibrations and noise and they are still irritating, Cat does not, but either way I've never noticed track noise on the Cat ProCross like on the Doos.

It was a whole lot easier to stud without the quiet lugs, that is certain.

"That's good to hear", Ha Ha, pun intended from one that has hearing tone degradation, which can make background noise, (much like the track noise were talking about), seem louder then other more prominent noises happening at the same time!

The prior track that I tried on my Winder was a single ply Camso Ice Attack XT, with much the same lug height as the stock Ripll 1.25", and that single ply pre studded track had a loud howl at cruising speeds, louder then the stock 1.25" track that's on our other sled, 2012 Vector, but that is not quiet like the stock Rip-ll 1,25". I do prefer a fully clipped track that is more on the quiet side, and those quiet lugs are a pain to stud, so that Camso Rip-ll vs the (Yamaha Camso Ripll) sounds like a No Brainer! Thanks

 

[Simplespeed]

I have always relieved stud heads wherever they intersect quiet track. Pic shows a 15/16" dia. hole saw with wood as a stop, that has an arbor mounted in it. I use washers to adjust how deep saw cuts. I first drill track, then use this tool wherever needed. To remove the rubber, I just use a 45 deg diagonal cutter. Remove the rubber in circle cut by hole saw to depth of thickness of head in stud. Takes time but works great. Difference - on stand sounds like there's no studs, on snow testing, my Dragy says it matters.

Looks like a great way to solve this issue.. Nice work ….. Without doing this your studs would be at different lenghts that stick up above lugs….

 

[KnappAttack]

Looks like a great way to solve this issue.. Nice work ….. Without doing this your studs would be at different lenghts that stick up above lugs….

Which is not a problem. I intentionally run different length studs on singles vs double backers, which I also run different sizes intentionally on also. Just saying....

It is good to trim the quiet lugs down so the stud bottoms on the shoulder where it supposed to tighten down on the backer for a trail sled to make it more sturdy with less movement.

 

[fatchance]

I did not find any difference or increase in noise between the quiet lugs on the stock track or no quiet lugs on the aftermarket Rip2. I was really expecting it to be louder as my Doo's had very noisy tracks under them without the quiet lugs, but for whatever reason, I find the aftermarket track to provide zero increase in noise, absolutely no difference that I could hear.

Maybe because the Doo tracks were single ply vs the two ply difference? Doo even stagers their wheels on the rear suspension to decrease the vibrations and noise and they are still irritating, Cat does not, but either way I've never noticed track noise on the Cat ProCross like on the Doos.

It was a whole lot easier to stud without the quiet lugs, that is certain. I ver must dislike the stock quote track and dont like the fact it wants fully clipped. I in fact fully clipped my stock track too. IMO the quiet lugs slow the sled down a bit. Aftermarket non-quiet lug track seems to roll easier and is defiantly more flexible than the stock track after broken in.

100% agree Mike. 10x easier to stud on the standard track as apposed to the quiet lug track. And basically no difference in noise when running. It l it's a win win in my opinion.

 

[Simplespeed]

Which is not a problem. I intentionally run different length studs on singles vs double backers, which I also run different sizes intentionally on also. Just saying....

It is good to trim the quiet lugs down so the stud bottoms on the shoulder where it supposed to tighten down on the backer for a trail sled to make it more sturdy with less movement.

I got ya on different lenghts but what I noticed is these quiet bumps will make studs on a double different sizes. In order to correct the issue I think Turboflash has a good answer. I agree the smooth track is also a good answer if you don’t mind changing tracks.. And running longer and shorter studs is find also but the stud pattern Iam running I want all the same size cause Iam only running 128 carbide triggers …

 

[fatchance]

I got ya on different lenghts but what I noticed is these quiet bumps will make studs on a double different sizes. In order to correct the issue I think Turboflash has a good answer. I agree the smooth track is also a good answer if you don’t mind changing tracks.. And running longer and shorter studs is find also but the stud pattern Iam running I want all the same size cause Iam only running 128 carbide triggers …

I use the Stud Boy Super Lite pro backers, but i found if i use aluminum backers and Crank them down and let them sit a few days it allows me to pull those studs and install the plastic backers with the stud heads flush no problem

 

[Simplespeed]

I use the Stud Boy Super Lite pro backers, but i found if i use aluminum backers and Crank them down and let them sit a few days it allows me to pull those studs and install the plastic backers with the stud heads flush no problem

Good to know, thanks

 

[Moodeyblue]

I agree with RH. Imo....the 19s are about 2-3 mph faster than the other years. The 19 SRX had different rails than other models. It sat lower to the ground, the skid was flatter, the frontend had different spindles that made it sit lower, which was conducive for speed.

Hi I have been following this thread. I currently have a 2019 SRX and snow
checked a 2025 SRX. I really like my 2019 and may want to convert the 2025 to 2019 specs. Sorry for all the questions below.

What is different about the rails on the 2025 vs the 2019? Will the rails on the 2025 make it slower?

If I was to lower the front end of the 2025, I would need different spindles ( same as 2019) and upper a frame arm? I believe the front springs are the same?

You're right that the SRX version was designed for more top speed with the different springs front and rear, and calibrated lower total height.
One inch track also.
I forgot about that.
There you go @Simplespeed

So I think the 2019 SRX has different torsion springs. this will make it sit lower?

I read a comment about different idler wheels in rear skid. which idler wheels and what is different;.