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Split Rail spindle removal

grizztracks

Tech Advisor
Joined
Feb 24, 2005
Messages
3,110
Age
60
Location
Scio, NY
Country
USA
Snowmobile
FX Nytro RTX, RS Vector, SR Viper RTX SE
Just a little info for the Split Rail ski owners. I recently did some work on a sled with split rails and needed to separate the spindles from the skis. One spindle was bent and both spindles kicked out the rubber stoppers. The spanner wrench tool that came with the skis is a joke making removing the ski bolts difficult. The shallow holes in the bolts are insufficient and the wrench tends to slip out. I was concerned about stripping out the holes in the bolt so I pulled out a C-clamp to secure the tools until I broke the bolts loose. I also used a heat gun on the inside of the rail (nut side) to loosen the loctite.

Has anyone else had a problem with the rubber stoppers kicking out the back?

photo3_zpsb653af31.jpg


Rubber ripped and falling out:
photo6_zps944673d2.jpg


Bent Spindle, These spindles would be much stronger if there was a spacer between the bolts:
photo2_zpsaeaa8ccf.jpg


Spindle bolts and bushings:
photo4_zpsd51de247.jpg
 

I have 2 sets of Split rails and have not seen any issues with the rubbers spitting out the back. When I took my spindles apart for painting and polishing I cut one of the heads off of one the wrenches and welded it to an old socket. Made removing the bolts a lot easier. I also had to heat up the bolts to get the Lock tite to break lose. Shane
 
I just removed the same hardware yesterday. They sell a new tool kit that makes the installation/uninstall a lot easier, thought I agree the 3 hole proprietary head sucks. The new tool holds the inside head tight, and provides a ratchet type head (you use with socket) which you simply have to hold flat to the screw head (still complicated, but a lot easier). Though looking at your pictures, the inside piece might not fit as it is designed to be snug between the two rails. I was told the proprietary design was due to the need for a flat surface, to prevent ice build up on the hardware heads.

If you need to apply heat to release loctite, then too much was used, or the bolt was over torqued (specific loctitie instruction, primer must be used, care taken not to let primer or loctite outside the thread on either bolt or nut.Tourque to 45 ft lbs).

Tip: I used a blow tourch to melt the used loctite out of the nut threads. Could not find any other way to clean this out for re-use.

I've had no issues with the rubber kicking out. It sits in the pocket pretty tight.

I like your idea of a single long bolt with a spacer between the the spindles! I wonder if they ever though of that?
 
When I had them they came out on me as we'll. I called them and they sent me a updated version of the rubber stoppers. Never got a chance to use them though as I sold the sled. Be careful though when they come out they are dangerous to ride.
 
From what I was told the split rail guys say they have never had a problem with the rubber stoppers coming out. If there is an issue admit it and fix the problem.
 
I had one of my outside rubbers work it's way back earlier this season. Had to heat it up with a hair dryer and Push it forward witha screwdriver.

Not sure why it happened. I am keeping an eye on them now.

Ms
 
I also just noticed that my rubber pieces had come out the back of my split rail skis. So to get them back in I need to take out the bolt right. Well both bushings are seized to the bolt. I tried everything to get them out except heat of course. Im afraid it will melt the plastic. Put a call into Split Rail - No reply as of yet. Any ideas guys?
 
You'll need a heat gun to melt their special loctite they use on the spindles bolts. You won't get it apart without heat.
 
I remember installing these skis myself and the only loctite I applied was on the bolt treads. I don't remember putting anything on the bushings. Ok so get the heat gun out but then how do you hold the bushing from spinning? The 2 bushings just spin with the bolt. And the position they are in its hard to get a punch in to tap the bolt out from the threaded side. Hopefully you are following me here haha
 
You should have the proper tools from split rail. I had the spanner wrench and hex tool but was missing the tool that's placed inside the spindle to hold the spanner tool in place. I used a c-clamp which worked to brake the loctite loose. Take a look at the previous pictures posted.
 
The only tools they provided me with were the 2 wrenches with 3 pins. I will have to get ahold of them. Love the skis but this is turning into a nuisance.
 
I see what you did with the C-clam. Don't think that will help me as I have been able to get the nut off the bolt already. My problem is getting the bolt out now. Those bushings are seized to the bolt and not letting the bolt to pull through.
 
Just to follow up. I finally got the bushings free from the bolts. I used a set of needle nosed vice grips and tightly set them on the flange of the bushing. Then took the heat gun and warmed the hardware up. They broke apart after that and I found that the locktite I had applied to the threads had squeezed out into the bushings. Didn't help that the manufacture told me to use the red permanent locktite. I have a feeling the rubber stops are going to work themselves out again over time.
 
That's one reason I got rid of them and went with the curve skis. There a pain to put on and take off and then worrying about the rubber stoppers after they came out once put me over the edge on trusting them.
 


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