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Spring tear down

Any pic’s of broken front arm ?
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This winter I broke cross shaft for front arm of skid. Had a steel one made 3/4 inch. It’s heavier for sure but should not break and ruin a ride or cause damage to tunnel.
 
Notice a difference with that shock damper on the rear tunnel?
 
Notice a difference with that shock damper on the rear tunnel?
ViperRob
I have one in the front also but no difference that I can feel. But who knows vibration harmonics
 
Seriously considering ordering a ZBroz front end for my Sr viper also there centre skid shock. The last kit I bought from them for my IQ 800 mod I built in 2007.
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View attachment 148068 Not trying to highjack here but noticed you just took these wheels off, the ones that are giving me a very hard time! Any tips or tricks to getting these 2 off?

You can take that upper part of the scissor off, and sandwich the shaft in a shop press and press the wheel off the shaft. Its a bit of a pain but it takes it off clean and smoothly. No hammering, banging etc.
MS
 
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The easiest way is to remove snap ring on the inside of the idler wheels. Then tap the idler wheel off bearing. Use air hammer gun to remove bearing’s. Install new 6006 bearings in idler wheels. Install plastic sleeves then the proper spring put bearing over shaft and use a round piece of pipe to tap bearing and idler wheel on. Just go to a plumbing store find the right diameter pipe with threads on each end and cap on end and hammer bearing and idler wheel on it will only go on so far. Then plastic spacer then aluminum hex mountMake sure to mark with a file the location of mount on upper axel. Hope this helps. The aluminum hex mount is not on when hammering idler wheel on pic is just for reference.
 
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So I removed drive axel had a bit of wear measured a new yamaha bearing then the shaft.
Going to order a new SKF C3 bearings and as per ClutchMaster loctight 638.
 
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New yamaha bearing measurement.
My drive Axel measures the same.
 
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Chaincase bearing was KOYO brake caliper was PEER.
Both bearings were fine. Going to replace anyway. Lower chaincase seal was a pain to install but got it in.
Replaced drive axel bearings with Fag bearings.
 
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Drilled and tapped a hole in steering support where people are putting a grease zerk because of all the play at Pivot arm. But I ran a 18” grease line and routed it to the right side of the chassis and added a female zerk fitting. My steering was fine but wanted to be able to grease steering. I also replaced the steering bracket kit while I had it apart.
 
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Drive axel drilled 7/32 and tapped 1/4 -28 NF with 3 set screw to help hold axel bearing on calliper side from spinning on axel shaft. Also going to use green loctight 638. Turning in set screws might take some time when installing but have a small ratchet tool and some 1/8 Allen wrenches bent at different angle’s because of the short throw inside axel.
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