stage 6 vs mod stock vs big turbo

[sledding rocks]

im wondering whats your best hp gains for your dollar ?
stage 6 requires breaking into the motor and is expensive ,
modstock turbo aliitle cheaper , and easier install vs stage 6 .
big turbo more expensive , also easier install , at the end of the day which 1 will give u the most for your value ?

 

[NYTurbo]

To get the most of any of those options u need to get into the motor

 

[max rolph]

any one of those mods its suggested to do ARP studs and commetic gasket., i did 3 angle valve job when i did mine aswell and clean ports is good idea if head off anyway, manual chain tensioner aswell.

 

[Turboflash]

any one of those mods its suggested to do ARP studs and commetic gasket., i did 3 angle valve job when i did mine aswell and clean ports is good idea if head off anyway, manual chain tensioner aswell.

Why manual chain tensioner? Since 998 was born I've not heard of any failures on stock one. How do you adjust the manual one in sled?

 

[REDLINE 1]

Why manual chain tensioner? Since 998 was born I've not heard of any failures on stock one. How do you adjust the manual one in sled?

Here’s a description from TD don’t know if it’s true or not
Turbo Dynamics billet aluminum Manual tensioner will eliminate the chances of skipping timing while accidently reversing motor or over revving.

The stock tensioner requires oil pressure to maintain a strong pressure

This is a must have modification for those running cams and stiffer springs, the stock tensioner is not strong enough to keep timing with additional spring pressure at high rpm.

The tensioner has been made with the lowest profile possible to make it easier for installation and adjustment.

 

[Turboflash]

Do you know where it is on engine? Behind and under jackshaft on right rear side of engine. Virtually impossible to get at. I'd like to watch TD adjust a manual one once engine is installed.

 

[REDLINE 1]

Do you know where it is on engine? Behind and under jackshaft on right rear side of engine. Virtually impossible to get at. I'd like to watch TD adjust a manual one once engine is installed.

No idea Here’s what it looks like. Tomcat was selling them also

 

[max rolph]

this will guarantee that you will never skip a tooth on timing when engine is accidently turned backwards. apparently its also happened when blowing a belt, i know ive watched my clutchs when shutting engine down and it does spin back a bit. with the hurricane chain heavy duty chain and manual tensioner, ..once set should be good for 1000,s of miles.

 

[Upstater57]

It is hard to quantify the best back for the buck since everyone has a different value system and different expectations for their sled. All the RR suspension upgrades are good, the shaft saver and chain case up grades are good. These harden weak points that can fail when stock let alone modified. I have run the gambit over the years including mod stock turbo. IMO for the average trail rider, in addition to what I mentioned above, from what I personally seen on the snow, the "bundle" tune packages for stock mufflers is hard to beat. Its plug and play adding 20 - 60 ponies by pressing a button using pump gas. For the occasional thrill across the lake, it's hard to beat.

 

[Turboflash]

this will guarantee that you will never skip a tooth on timing when engine is accidently turned backwards. apparently its also happened when blowing a belt, i know ive watched my clutchs when shutting engine down and it does spin back a bit. with the hurricane chain heavy duty chain and manual tensioner, ..once set should be good for 1000,s of miles.

I totally get the theory and principle as you state but again, I would want to see someone actively try to adjust one while engine is installed ready to ride in chassis. Almost impossible. Go and look where it is and imagine trying to get wrenches in there!
Also. It is very common to see most 998s rock backward a tiny bit when first shut off. Obviously won't anything since it's been the case since 2017.
I've taken valve covers off 998s days after they were last run and the cam chain is still very tight, as in no Deflection. When these engines are running, the cam chains are very snug just with stock hydraulic tensioner.

 

[max rolph]

Good Morning.... sooim going to give you my 100% honest opinion and results and you can take it or leave it.

1st, I would do as everyone else said right off the bat and fix/ strengthen all the weak manufactures short cuts...

.. change all fluids to synthetic Amsoil
.. leak test and clamps on all intake
.. dry and seal relays with sealant
.. shaft saver on drive shaft
..chain tensioner in chain case
.. upper gear bushing/bearing
.. gear change to 1.80/ 1.90 ratio
.. RR suspension shafts upgrade (lower shock mount front track shock)
.. front arm upper shaft in tunnel
..tunnel protectors
..dupont slides
..all idler wheels to BRP (if studded)
..ROV re locate
.. 1"hole and plug under oil drain for ease of oil change or RIV nut side panel
.. reflash multi stock muffler juke box tune from rep company.
.. clutch it and leave it!!

all this should cost @2000.00 with out breaking a bolt on engine.

i might have missed a couple others but i did not even drive mine before spending a fortune as i read what could be done and fell into that testosterone money pit of stage 6

you can also do all brass bussings in suspension and steering, 4 wheel kits... etc

but honestly just do the weak links and bundle tune and enjoy a 125-130mph sled on pump gas..

one more thing... fuel economy on eco tune was 1.5 gallons better on a tank compared to 850 poo and doo same day same ride. cochrane to abitibi canyon

 

[max rolph]

I totally get the theory and principle as you state but again, I would want to see someone actively try to adjust one while engine is installed ready to ride in chassis. Almost impossible. Go and look where it is and imagine trying to get wrenches in there!
Also. It is very common to see most 998s rock backward a tiny bit when first shut off. Obviously won't anything since it's been the case since 2017.
I've taken valve covers off 998s days after they were last run and the cam chain is still very tight, as in no Deflection. When these engines are running, the cam chains are very snug just with stock hydraulic tensioner.

I know what you are saying, about accessibility, im making a specially bent ring wrench to get at nut from side. thats my project this summer as i gotta do some wrenching anyway as i have a slight sweat of oil coming from valve cover gasket going dwn side of engine which pisses me off to see.!!

 

[sledding rocks]

i want to brake this down better .
stage 6 , its costly , takes a skilled tec to do this job , not for everyone , hp gains , bottom and mid .
mod stock , cheaper then stage 6 , u dont need to be skilled tec to do this job , im not sure on the hp gains ?
big turbo , costly , i dont think u need to be skilled , i have personly seen one go on pump gas , i wasnt impressed for the amount of money it cost .
im thinking the modstock would be the way to go ? i would like to here more on the guys that r running the mod stock on pump gas

 

[DMCTurbo]

i want to brake this down better .
stage 6 , its costly , takes a skilled tec to do this job , not for everyone , hp gains , bottom and mid .
mod stock , cheaper then stage 6 , u dont need to be skilled tec to do this job , im not sure on the hp gains ?
big turbo , costly , i dont think u need to be skilled , i have personly seen one go on pump gas , i wasnt impressed for the amount of money it cost .
im thinking the modstock would be the way to go ? i would like to here more on the guys that r running the mod stock on pump gas

I'll be running a modstock this winter. Stay tuned...

 

[max rolph]

im the same , just booked in to TD for dyno and mod stock..... last upgrade, never got chance to do last year.