Stock Sidewinder clutch changes

[1nc 2000]

Thanks

 

[Clintww]

Update:
I finally got to the clutch work now that I finished on the other side.
I found a gap at the PTO bearing (stub shaft) to the housing as suggested. I ruined the seal trying to get it apart. It was very stubborn trying to remove it using the clutch as a slide hammer.
The clutch didn't rub the bolts, but was close. It took a fair amount of pressure to get the shaft out of the bearing (5 tons according to the gauge) which i needed to remove to replace the large seal.

I bought and installed the following;
TP primary and secondary rollers (all stock rollers were flat spotted evenly. No way they were turning)
Dalton 33/35 helix
Dalton springs B/O in sec wrapped to 6/2 , B/Bronze in primary
BOP secondary adjuster
XS 825 Belt

I removed the secondary spacer washer and measured the spacing at 58.9 mm (2.320 inches)
On the adjuster, I only installed 2 of the three washers from BOP. When I used the belt to hold the secondary open, I had very minimal movement on the shaft. I would have to measure with a feeler gauge as it is a small gap, but does allow movement

I don't have the suspension in yet, so I can't watch it running. Not sure I have accounted for everything.

What do you guys think I forgot or screwed up on?

Stock sled that I only have about 200 miles on myself (4500 total) I never even got to open it up as the belt blew on the first attempt.

 

[tsiceman]

While you have suspension out, it might be wise to check for movement in driveshaft on brake side bearing. Just reach under sled and try moving driveshaft up and down.

 

[Clintww]

While you have suspension out, it might be wise to check for movement in driveshaft on brake side bearing. Just reach under sled and try moving driveshaft up and down.

Yeah, I had pulled the rotor off to inspect. The shaft has been turning in the bearing, but there is very minor wear. Only a few thousands of an inch. I have asked Travis about it and I’m now waiting for his new repair that he just posted about. I have bought all of the BOP suspension and tunnel upgrades along with the top tunnel plate from Craig. My tunnel has some very minor cracking around the front suspension bar mounting points and the tunnel top was starting to separate from the front heat exchanger. None of it is serious, but I’m glad I found it all now rather than later.

I have tore the sled down to tunnel and engine. When the wife happened to see it that way, she was shocked. I even removed all of the hoses to either drain old oil, or to clean out the oil deposits in the intake.

Im thankful to the people that have made solutions for these problems. If all of these fixes are needed to keep the sleds running over time it becomes clear as to why people leave the sport or try different brands. All of my friends I use to ride with have all sold their sleds due to the expense of the sport. Most new to the sport people I knew think you can spend the now 15 to 20 grand and then treat them like a new car where you only open the hood for oil changes for the next 5 years. When they learn the truth they get very discouraged.

Other things I have done include installing a 10 micron fuel filter and added a return fuel line to the fuel pump since my sled has the small red fitting. I added red lock tight to the chain tensioner screws, but they were tight. The bronze bushing and shift pads were already installed.

 

[Pstn head]

Since you have it apart tack weld the chain tensioner bolts there have been a few I believe even with red lock tight have come loose.

 

[Thunder Products]

Hello All,
My first time posting even though I have been looking for years. I have just bought a 2017 Side Winder that is stock and not studded. I broke the golden rule of buying a used sled and then taking it on a trip without looking anything over. Anyway at about 200 miles it blew the Ultimax belt the first time i pushed it to 9000 rpm. Makes quite the sound at that engine speed. I have never in my life blown a belt on any sled.

Anyway there is so much discussion on what clutch changes to make on this site, it gets confusing.

My question is what is the most dependable clutch changes to make for a stock sled?
What parts should Ichange out for a stock powered engine?

I love how it drives now and would like to keep it close as to engagement speed and rpm levels.

I have read the basics here, I need to check the stub shaft and alignment to book settings I believe. I did notice on of the secondary rollers is flat spotted and has been dragging the ramp.

Thank you for your help,

Thunder Products Clutching sells clutch kits that work from stock hpr to 300 hpr flashed Sidewinders. It is the same kit, just setup differently with our patented weights and fasteners.

We also machine the secondary shaft to correct offset alignment. (clutch will need to be sent in for that)

 

[Thunder Products]

Bad grooving.

Horrible grooving from stock secondary rollers.

Our rollers are wider and won't groove the helix.