Stock Sidewinder Blown Belts

[jonlafon1]

This is the stocker with 2 mm off the top. Ran it for very few miles. Also did the same on the STM straight 38 as the dimensions were indentical. Guy could take a smidge more. CAUTION dry cycle secondary and make sure belt does not go to far at full shift out.

 

[Epicsw]

So there are a lot of threads about blown belts, but I wanted one that is just stock sleds. I am leaving my sled stock but I want to know issues that I may have. Who is having some issues with their stock sleds blowing belts? I want to know the difference between someone with 250HP or some weird clutch kit and my stocker.

3,350 miles original belt on an LTX-LE. Only mod is Cat rollers. Originals flat spotted.

Lots of 50 mph to 80 mph cruising with rare WFO for brief periods (hard to to on trails!).

 

[ClutchMaster]

Yes sir , ,straight 38. Straight 37 would be very good also imo. 200o miles on with set up. NO BLOWN BELTS.

Oh don't get me wrong I'm sure the steeper angle will be better for racing should pull harder. Heck you could put a 40~42 angle on with a stiffer spring and get a whole different shift characteristics. Tight twisty trails the shallow angle helix will outshine the steeper angle. Get on some railroad grade or trails open up more the steeper angle will really pull your arms out. Yamaha is famous for their quick response clutching, they run lower helix angles with weaker springs. Cats Traditionally run steeper angles with heavier springs. Cause we all know cat guys can't ride twistys! They just point and shoot drag race then they claim their sled is faster..... not in the tight twistys!!
As for the belt snapping, well I'm still going with it's an alignment issue. If the motor isn't parallel under high power it will cause these failures. The belt where it enters the primary sheave gets even a little bit cocked under high horsepower, it will stress one edge of the belt while the other edge sees very little. The interior cords start to let go in a certain spot and it works it way straight across the belt. Then it eventually pops like someone cut the SOB.

 

[ClutchMaster]

With just under 2500 miles I have only blown 1 belt on my stock Winder. That was at 1100 miles after running several back to back 1/2 mile drags.

But!!!!!!! No Joke and I know what your all going to think. I have a customer with 1500 miles on his Stock Winder and has blown 13 belts. 6 8jp's and 7 8dn's. Some at around 50 miles.
Yes Very hard to believe but true. This customer openly admits he rides the sled like he stole it 100% of the time. Hard braking sliding into corners hammering the throttle while braking and never waits till belts are broken in. He was just in the store today picking up 12 more spares and a belly pan. At least is honest and knows what breaks the belts. Yes clutches are all is spec and aligned.

I would not use this info as the norm, But if you guys ride your Winders like this you will break belts!!!!
THIS IS NOT A BELT OR UNIT ISSUE RATHER A RIDER ISSUE.

Well that's just an opinion, and yes if you ride it like you stole it your belts will not last as long. But 75 miles on a belt? There is absolutely no way his clutches are working/aligned correctly. I don't give a rats azz how hard he thinks he rides, something is wrong with his setup. He just has more money than brains too keep riding it and paying for belts. Sidewinder is no turbo Apex and I know of one that's ridden hard with 300+ hp, 240 studs and he gets 1000+ miles on an 8DN.

 

[jonlafon1]

Lol. Cat guys can't ride the twisties.

 

[Myrdin]

Hey guys, one thing I noticed on mine and my stepsons right away was that there was oil from the air filter dripping down onto the primary. I cleaned filter, airbox, belt and clutches. There is no need for oil on air filter, and they tell you not to, but I think they were pre oiled from manufacturer. I have 1500 miles on mine and stepson has 2000 miles on his, both original belts and going strong. Just something to look out for.

 

[Sledroll]

3,350 miles original belt on an LTX-LE. Only mod is Cat rollers. Originals flat spotted.

Lots of 50 mph to 80 mph cruising with rare WFO for brief periods (hard to to on trails!).

FYI when I hit the brakes hard , cause I'm probably going to fast , for the conditions , when I get back on the gas to continue slowly , the belt squeals , and doesn't move normally until the sqealing stops .
It is as if the belt in one of the clutches is getting stuck , due to ?
The clutches need to be synchronized ?
This sticking may relate to how guys are snapping their belts , when they hit the throttle hard , after an improper downshifting .
Hope I am describing this enough for those that know clutching can comment knowledgeably .
Anyone else have this happening ?
Can this be a symptom , relating to other clutching issues .
My sled has been fantastic ty , and I will address the upgrades that have been suggested for next year .
There is less than zero engine braking when I let off the gas , as compared to my 06 and 15 Apex's, which has me using my brake way more than ever needed .

 

[Fleecer]

FYI when I hit the brakes hard , cause I'm probably going to fast , for the conditions , when I get back on the gas to continue slowly , the belt squeals , and doesn't move normally until the sqealing stops .
It is as if the belt in one of the clutches is getting stuck , due to ?
The clutches need to be synchronized ?
This sticking may relate to how guys are snapping their belts , when they hit the throttle hard , after an improper downshifting .
Hope I am describing this enough for those that know clutching can comment knowledgeably .
Anyone else have this happening ?
Can this be a symptom , relating to other clutching issues .
My sled has been fantastic ty , and I will address the upgrades that have been suggested for next year .
There is less than zero engine braking when I let off the gas , as compared to my 06 and 15 Apex's, which has me using my brake way more than ever needed .

My winder exhibits exactly the same thing you describe when rear clutch is set at factory 3-3 or 60 degrees of tension. Tightening secondary tension to 6-1 or 70 degrees will cure that and is more pleasurable to ride. Downfall is couple lengths slower in drag race and 1-2 mph slower top end. This varys depending on conditions.

 

[jonlafon1]

I noticed very little engine breaking until I put a higher/steeper angle helix in secondary. And most would say this makes little sense but it is true and happened. In fact it back shifted so hard i had to go back to 3/3 instead of 6/1.

 

[ShootToThrill]

What about water/snow dust getting on the clutches? The panels etc are not sealed very good. I sealed some gaps up front but I get water in the pocket under the brake rotor. Getting over 100 is a chore on snow, it is a rocket to 100, stock flash and all the tricks done helix shimmed, good rollers, alignment, etc. 1200 miles on belt before the top peeled off. Not impressed that it needs 10-15 mph to run with my stock apex xtx on snow. Never ran it all out on ice because of the shitty winter. Has anyone else noticed this?