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Stock Sidewinder Blown Belts

982 miles on XTX SE. Original belt. All stock. Had some long WOT pulls today. Only reached 8500 RPMs. Grenaded belt doing 60 down the trail at the end of the day.
 

race24x said:
Is anyone getting Yamaha to replace the belts?
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Lol ! They are not gonna replace belts, they won't replace secondary or primary springs which are causing the clutch/binding which takes tole in belts!. Complete BS imo
 
mooser17 said:
Lol ! They are not gonna replace belts, they won't replace secondary or primary springs which are causing the clutch/binding which takes tole in belts!. Complete BS imo
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Should have just bought a cat with team clutches they don't have any issues
 
Just when I thought I understood clutching with my 2012 f-1100 turbo, now all this reverse helix angle stuff is confusing the crap out of me. Cam someone please help me understand ? You have a starting angle and a finish angle or just straight. The 1100 loved to be loaded with aggressive weights and aggressive helix. So this new triple clutching seems a little different unless it's a cat clutching thing.
 
Reverse angle helix is when the start angle is lower (smaller number) than the finish angle (larger number) in degrees. Traditionally the starting angle is larger, but with turbos the lower starting angle helps to spool a large turbo. Not really needed on the sidewinder.

I'm not sure I agree with folks who say the helix angle is too shallow. the new roller secondary has a lot larger diameter than the old yami helixes, and it's a roller which means helix angles needs to be reduced to get the same performance as a button clutch.

I don't have a Sidewinder for testing so it's hard to say what's going on.
 
ClutchMaster said:
Reverse angle helix is when the start angle is lower (smaller number) than the finish angle (larger number) in degrees. Traditionally the starting angle is larger, but with turbos the lower starting angle helps to spool a large turbo. Not really needed on the sidewinder.

I'm not sure I agree with folks who say the helix angle is too shallow. the new roller secondary has a lot larger diameter than the old yami helixes, and it's a roller which means helix angles needs to be reduced to get the same performance as a button clutch.

I don't have a Sidewinder for testing so it's hard to say what's going on.
Click to expand...

I would agree for the majority of the time but the idea of the lower angle was to get it to rev quicker and clean up the soft low end and make it snappier in the corners. It is not bad and the mid range is fantastic. but getting there at times could be better. RockerDan also talked about this a bit in his earlier posts and after getting my new sled I agree. My old turbo was sluggish until I clutched it and after it was great. Like was said earlier about higher angles and weights was true for it.

Jester
 
I am just a little disappointed that Yamaha on sleds with only 500 miles doesnt think a blown belt or a bad spring shouldnt be covered by warranty. My sled is stock I ride on groomed trails, I am not out on a frozen lake. It was basically perfect snowmobile conditions with some loose snow on the trail for lube for the slides. Yet it still blows a belt WTF. I will be replacing the clutching with a kit as soon as I hear about one that has been tested and is bullet proof. New springs helix whatever. I dont think it needs the performance I just want the damn thing to be reliable.
 
JestersYamacat said:
I would agree for the majority of the time but the idea of the lower angle was to get it to rev quicker and clean up the soft low end and make it snappier in the corners. It is not bad and the mid range is fantastic. but getting there at times could be better. RockerDan also talked about this a bit in his earlier posts and after getting my new sled I agree. My old turbo was sluggish until I clutched it and after it was great. Like was said earlier about higher angles and weights was true for it.

Jester
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Well I pick my new winder up tomorrow they got hammered with snow in northern Michigan. Riding it stock obviously but I will be looking for clutching Parts's.
 
JestersYamacat said:
I would agree for the majority of the time but the idea of the lower angle was to get it to rev quicker and clean up the soft low end and make it snappier in the corners. It is not bad and the mid range is fantastic. but getting there at times could be better. RockerDan also talked about this a bit in his earlier posts and after getting my new sled I agree. My old turbo was sluggish until I clutched it and after it was great. Like was said earlier about higher angles and weights was true for it.

Jester
Click to expand...
Agree Bud.....

When talking helix angles, I like to refer to the angles as "steeper" and "shallower".....Rather then higher/lower angles, or More or less angles. IMO these terms dont register as well in someone's brain. Using steeper and shallower(or flatter) makes one picture that image in their mind, like a steep mountain road.

Typical Helix angles starting steeper, and ending shallower are much more the "norm". Using torque in the bottom and middle(steeper) then finishing shallower/flatter on top end to climb and hold up rpms on long lakes ect...

A reverse angle would start shallower/flatter, then go to the steeper angle on top end. So now the shallow/flatter angle down low speed wont upshift as fast, holding rpms UP/Higher on trail speeds, corner to corner you will be revving more and so now you are pushing more PSI boost corner to corner in the 5000-7000rpm range. Similar to the high start rate compression springs we install in the DOOs to make them rev down low, and pop skis at will with instant snap of flipper.

Using a 33/35 reverse helix will hold rpms bottom/mid (33 initial angle) up more then stock 35 straight, and then get onto the 35 angle for top speed which should get the upper rpms close to stock 35 straight.

A stronger side force torsion spring can have a similar effect, and Dale is working on one as Im sure others are for next season. We should see alot more tuning tools in clutching next season for the SW along with tunes that will bring on boost lower. I know my cat when tuned/clutched would hit super hard down low, and snap skis off the snow quickly....SW will be total package when we get them strong on bottom too.

Dan
 
just did 127 speedo with steeper helix. Then stock. No doubt in my mind steeper is better. Stock gears. TD ECO TRAIL. TDturbo force muffler. Snapped skis off @75 mph on hard packed road. 137 coupled skid. 192 nails.
 
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