Stub shaft

[Ontarioviperxtx]

How are guys moving the stub shaft back into proper location? I have heard slide hammer, pressing a new bearing in with retaining loctite, and a few other ways what is the best way from experience?

lol I now know why I was hard on belts the end of the season!

 

[Turboflash]

I removed stub assy off engine, heated the alum housing with propane torch until if fell off bearing. I didn't want to press it out so as to put load through balls and raceway. Didn't really take that much heat for housing to drop off. Cleaned everything, put stub and bearing in freezer, gently warmed up alum housing, applied dose of green loctite, dropped the stub w/bearing right in. Check grease in bearing by carefully pulling one of the seals off. I thought my bearing looked rather dry so I added some high temp/high RPM grease I got from SKF Bearing Co. Seated nicely.
BTW - I had about .030" gap between bearing and housing prior to re-seating it. After = zero. Recheck/realign clutch offset!

 

[ClutchMaster]

I removed stub assy off engine, heated the alum housing with propane torch until if fell off bearing. I didn't want to press it out so as to put load through balls and raceway. Didn't really take that much heat for housing to drop off. Cleaned everything, put stub and bearing in freezer, gently warmed up alum housing, applied dose of green loctite, dropped the stub w/bearing right in. Check grease in bearing by carefully pulling one of the seals off. I thought my bearing looked rather dry so I added some high temp/high RPM grease I got from SKF Bearing Co. Seated nicely.
BTW - I had about .030" gap between bearing and housing prior to re-seating it. After = zero. Recheck/realign clutch offset!

On me Viper the housing is steel. Winders have an aluminum housing? Either way I would remove the housing and loctight the outer & inner races. I believe I used 638 loctight. I didn’t heat the upon reassembly due to the fact the loctight will harden almost instantly. I used a myriad of different sized pipe to press back together preventing bearing ball loading. First bearing into housing then shaft into bearing. I did have it apart twice and the first time I removed/assembled I just pressed it apart and together, loading the bearing balls and never had issues, probably not recommended but never had an issue.

 

[bleedyamaha]

I took the stub shafting cause I have a gap between the seal and housing. I am not sure how to get the gap tightened back up. My sled has a warranty til Dec of 21. With that said would this be a warranty thing and how do you convince them of that ?

 

[Sevey]

Some use the slide hammer to coax the entire shaft assembly off the motor. Then using a shop press start pressing the shaft and bearing out of the housing.
To do it right, i think you have to take it all apart, clean it and press it together

 

[bleedyamaha]

Thanks I did get it off the end of the crank and after looking at it I reinstalled it. If this is a warranty thing I will let the dealer fix it.

 

[Kuzzy]

Its funny that this just came up. I took my sled into the dealer and this is one of the things that he fixed. He said that he has noticed a trend of the stub pushing in when a belt blows. He fixed mine up and then loc-tited the thing in place. We will see how things go next season!

 

[jonlafon1]

Its funny that this just came up. I took my sled into the dealer and this is one of the things that he fixed. He said that he has noticed a trend of the stub pushing in when a belt blows. He fixed mine up and then loc-tited the thing in place. We will see how things go next season!

Good dealer! Maybe he is doing some reading on TY after work?

 

[Kuzzy]

Good dealer! Maybe he is doing some reading on TY after work?

haha, yes very likely, maybe even during the day. However we have alot of open field trails around here where you can really wind these things out and maybe the folk around here dont exactly treat them like they are 22k machines lol. he has probably just about seen it all.

 

[STAIN]

How are people getting the inner seal properly installed during shaft installation?
Just stuffing the whole assembly in does not seem like it would go far enough to install the inner seal properly, or if the seal does go in it would not ride on the shaft properly?
Am I missing something? Does it matter?
I have the shaft out, and looking at it, it seems as though the shaft has to be installed first, install the seal, then the bearing after.

 

[sideshowBob]

I have always installed the stubshaft, bearing, seal, and collar as a preassembled unit. I have not experienced an issue with the seal.

 

[STAIN]

But when doing this, the seal does not get pressed into the block, correct? The bearing does not go far enough to press in the seal. At that point, why not take the seal out? If the seal does not get pressed in the block, does it flop around in there, spinning with the shaft?
Am I wrong about this?

 

[KnappAttack]

But when doing this, the seal does not get pressed into the block, correct? The bearing does not go far enough to press in the seal. At that point, why not take the seal out? If the seal does not get pressed in the block, does it flop around in there, spinning with the shaft?
Am I wrong about this?

Yep, your wrong. The seal gets pressed in upon installing the complete stub shaft assembly.

 

[STAIN]

How? What presses it? What keeps it from sliding outward?
I can see if the bearing presses it in, then the housing gets installed after.

 

[KnappAttack]

The housing goes over the bearing, (clean and loctite first), and the seal gets pushed into place on assembly.

The seal rides next to the bearing on the smaller portion of the shaft, as you have it now its stretched over where it actually rides. This happens when you pull it out as an assembly where its pulled onto the next step up.