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**studding warning **

I can create a quick pattern tomorrow with the inner most 3" being avoided. Thanks
 

I just quickly came up with this pattern which avoids the center 2" of the track. You can use this in combination with our studding template. It has 144 studs down the center and 48 on the outside for a 137" long track. A similar design can be used/created for a 129" track.

View attachment 122432
Sorry, but how is this pattern not avoiding middle 2-3" of track? I dont get it.
 
So 135 1.325 studs on a 129" track has the potential to cause an issue?
3 studs per bar
 
Sorry, but how is this pattern not avoiding middle 2-3" of track? I dont get it.

When utilizing the black template shown in the image above, you just follow the design shown below. This design shows a studding pattern with 112 studs on the inside and 48 on the outside. The one shown below will avoid studding within the center 3" of the track.

160 Stud Pattern.jpg
 
This pattern shows 168 studs on the inside belt and 48 on the outside for 216. The template itself is universal and countless stud patterns can be created from it. Each row represents a lug spacing on your track (48 in total on a 137") Hopefully this clears it up.
216 Stud Pattern.jpg
 
So 135 1.325 studs on a 129" track has the potential to cause an issue?
3 studs per bar


I believe it will NOT be an issue based on 1.325 - 1.00" lug (net minus mat thickness) = .325 over the lug ( based on how woodys measures) and from reports you have a max of .630 however each stud maker measures differently...

the safest way is to take the stud...lay a backer on it bottomed out o the shoulder (doesnt apply to shoulderless studs) and measure the net protrusion...

then lay a straight edge across your lugs...measure from the bottom of the straight edge to the track mat...the difference between the two is your protrusion.
 
With a properly installed 1.325" woody's stud on a 1.25" lug track, you will get ~.375" over the lug. A properly installed 1.450" woody's stud on a 1.25" lug track will put you at ~.500" over the lug. I have used calipers for this measurement because I have OCD, haha. Below is a woody's chart explaining stud length.

http://assets1.mytrainsite.com/501450/g1-06-0001_woodys_penetration_chart_inches-mm_rev052516.pdf
So, from what I am reading a 1.325 stud on a 1.25 track should be ok? I still am considering 144 down the middle on a 137 LTX-LE. I know not up to snuff for SJ ;), but just really don't want to go on the outside. 90% of my riding is groomed trail with an occasional frozen lake if the trail goes across it.
 
I will stick with the 1.325 that I have always ran. And yes its certainly not the most aggressive length I get that for sure. And REMEMBER you will avoid any issues if you stay out of the 1.5 inches in the very center. Could a guy just run some shorter ones in the very middle , and stay long elsewhere?
 
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So, from what I am reading a 1.325 stud on a 1.25 track should be ok? I still am considering 144 down the middle on a 137 LTX-LE. I know not up to snuff for SJ ;), but just really don't want to go on the outside. 90% of my riding is groomed trail with an occasional frozen lake if the trail goes across it.
You wont be disappointed going outside> I had a really hard time doing a few years ago. But this sled has some serious HP, and if you stay 1.325 outside its even less risk IMHO
 
bruce...left you a message and I have people contacting you now for templates....make sure you save me one lol

based on .500" net over the lug and the measurements provided of .630" differential on a 1.450" you have .130" or 1/8" space to play with ...could it work...yes...but a thin margin for error...

if your track isnt tight or if you grab a handful of brakes etc.....this is my concern...

1.325"s give you another 1/8" ...so now you are at 1/4"...still not warm and fuzzy...but getting better...but that only gives .375 or 3/8" inch of protrusion over the lug ...

personally Id rather have more traction in the safer place and not risk is with any stud...

to not stud outside with this much power IMHO is a waste...but if you go outside..IMHO every bar gets them...they are tightened to max spec and get blue thread locker...theirs strength in numbers so Im not concerned...better than shredding the tunnel on my new machine IMHO

you will need the heat exchanger protectors regardless of your choice ...and to bottom line it...depending on factors...especially balloning which is incresed when you stud middle only.....if you stud middle only...even with the 1.325's...there's a chance you could hit the tunnel there.
 
So if I'm reading this right and I have a 1.50 fast trac stud I need to stay out of the center 3 in correct? Also for the guy making templates will you be making a pattern for the 129 s 180 studs using the outside and staying out of the center 3 in?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
you are correct (we feel so far)

he makes a template...you make your own pattern..he's merely showing the possibilities..
 


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