• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Studs

You have obviously never tried them and should not be commenting on them until you do. There's a reason they are going on my 280 HP sidewinder, and they wouldn't be going on if there was no positives about them!

I flogged them on my Turbo 1200 Doo for thousands of miles with no issues whatsoever. They are lighter, easier to install over using std double backers and nuts with square shank Megabites, hookup is better on snow with them along with being lighter. That is all a positive!

If they were any negatives with them, you wouldn't see them on virtually every single winning snow cross sled on the track! They are a game changer in snow! You either run them or get beat by the guys running them!

Ya snowcross racing is different. They only need to last one race. Plus they are racing light sleds that are relatively low power.

My and my buddy installed them on his nytro, and I put normal backers on my sled. They take longer to install. They didn't hook any better and his sled wasn't faster than mine. The biggest difference was how the tracks looked at the end of the season. Mine looked perfect. He was missing a few studs, not pull thrus, the holes were clean. If they work for you, great. Just sharing my experiences. From my research on them, most complaints are about the durability of the plastic
 

129" RTX w/2.86 pitch has 45 bars(129/2.86=45.10) and will either be 136 or 134 total(depending on where you start layout of 4-2-4-2) or 180 total(4 per bar) for typical patterns, also can use doubles....

I like my gold diggers for many many yrs....1.450 is a good length for overall trail riding IMO, and wont hit the vents.

I like this Stud Boy template. Part #2563-00

Other goodies showed up from CB performance.

...................

View attachment 130494
View attachment 130489
View attachment 130490
View attachment 130493
View attachment 130491
View attachment 130492

Hi Dan. I'm trying to figure out what I want for studs. Can you tell me what the measurement of 1.450" is on the actual stud? Woody's part numbers confuse me...
 
woody-s-stud-application-guide.jpg
 
So 1.450 "inches" has nothing to do with actual measurement of the stud?
 
I have 4 across but stayed out of the center portion last year after all the warnings after a year of running I have not heard of a single person coming close to hitting the louvers or anything. I have 1.450 will I gain anything by adding another stud down the middle of it or is it wasted time and money without going to a larger stud? Thanks
 
You won't be hitting with smaller than 1.5xx ... But length is important for ultimate traction... Not even cares or needs... But if so...I say 1.6xx or even 1.8xx done right.. Number of scratch lines is King closest to the rail... And now with the protection add ons.... You can stud anywhere
 
I just have too much time and money invested in the studs I have already too pull them all out and go to a larger stud. When these wear out I'll go to a larger size but I have close to enough triggers to add another stud down the middle which would be 5 across will I gain anything from this or just more weight?
 
I just have too much time and money invested in the studs I have already too pull them all out and go to a larger stud. When these wear out I'll go to a larger size but I have close to enough triggers to add another stud down the middle which would be 5 across will I gain anything from this or just more weight?
IMHO down the middle is a waste, like previously mentioned, you would get more benefit by adding as close to the rail as possible. If you have enough studs, go every other on the outside band and stagger each side so you have 5 per "bar". This would increase your traction considerably vs adding to the middle.
 


Back
Top