Sub frame removed now how do I remove the starter?

[MNicefisher]

So I removed my sub frame to put all new bushings in and sandblast the a arms and since it's stripped down I want to Loctite my starter bolts. In the FAQ on sub frame removable it says the "starter almost falls out" so what does it take to get it out once you get to it? Sled starts fine I just want to make sure it doesn't come loose in the future.

 

[cannondale27]

Two bolts hold it in. Did you look? If you need any pics let me know since I have my subframe off right now also.

 

[MNicefisher]

I actually did look but if you don't mind posting a pic. I'm sure I'm just over thinking it because the rest of the tear down was a breeze for me. I wouldn't think 2 starter bolts shouldn't slow me down! Thanks!

 

[cannondale27]

No problem. Here you go.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

Its right in front of the heat exchanger on the back side of the motor. Crawl under there and look straight up. Undo the two bolt canondale27 showed you in the picture and pull the starter out. It takes a little effort because the O ring sticks a bit. Make sure you oil the O ring when reinstalling

 

[Jeffz]

The two bolts that are shown in the picture need to be loctited when you re-install the starter, but the main reason they fail is because the two long bolts that hold the starter body together aren't loctited. I used red loctite on mine. Make sure the marks on the starter housing are lined up and loctite each bolt.

 

[cannondale27]

Yes. That is whole reason for removing the starter. I added the pic to the whole original thread.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=64045

 

[MNicefisher]

Make sure you oil the O ring when reinstalling

Dang it! I forgot to oil the O ring before putting the starter back in, was that just to make installing easier? I completely cleaned the oil off it too.

 

[cannondale27]

If it leaks oil then you will have to do it again. If not dont sweat it. Yes it just makes it easier to slide in there without tearing the o-ring.

 

[MNicefisher]

I won't know if it leaks until I get the sub frame back on so I can hook up the oil line and fill it with oil. Just bought $35.00 worth of Amsoil, don't need that spilling out if I have to disconnect the oil line again and pull the starter to replace the O ring. BTW what a surprise having the oil pore all over me when I took the starter out, had no idea that was going to happen, thought I cracked the block for a second!

 

[cannondale27]

LOL its all in the post man. That had to make a mess!

 

[MNicefisher]

Ok since I screwed up on a few thing so far I want to make sure I'm 100% on this, I don't add any oil to the motor just the tank. I can't believe there isn't any special procedures for bleeding oil lines or anything like on my Polaris Sportsman with a dry sump. Must not take long for the oil from the tank to get to the motor, I just don't like the idea of dry starting it.

 

[cannondale27]

Yes in the tank only. There is a procedure for bleeding it.Little bolt above the exhaust and the oil cooler. I did it once by the book and never have again. It is up to you. Read your manual if you want to bleed it. Another option would be to crank engine without starting it. Just jump the big wires at solenoid with key in off position. The scavenge part of oil pump moves massive amounts of oil very quickly. Even cranking it over would easily be sufficient.

 

[Mooseman]

What??? We're supposed to bleed it??? Dang! All this time I've been neglecting my baby!

Seriously, never done it, never anything happen. We don't bleed our cars so... I'll bet just cranking it when first starting it after the oil change will bleed it.