Should also add I have a cobra track and just studded with 1.450 megabites I have read a bunch of posts on the stud length but none from people running an m20 so looking for feedback there too
Redbeard
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Do you feel the skid is riding too rough and slowing you down? I run the lowest air pressure I can without bottoming and/or feeling like I'm riding a trampoline.
Is your skid new or used?
It's used, been in the machine awhile but I never got any settings from previous owner.. When on bumpy trails yesterday i was hearing banging noises but it sounded more like track on ice build up which looking at the pipe under the nytro appears will be a problem...
Soldier'spapa
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The beauty of the M-20 is the ability to change the air pressure. I run higher pressure than you. I'm on a 128" skid and weigh about 220#.
Have you experimented a lot with the pressure? I typically change on the fly often throughout the day.
I've been playing with it throughout the day and have comparing with my friends vector, his is almost new and a 128" and mine is older 121" however and mine is certainly sitting alot lower than his and feels alot more springy and they are set at the same weight.. I have suspicions that the shock may be blown.. Is that an occurrence with the m20's?
Soldier'spapa
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Shock rebuild was my next thought. Every shock eventually needs refreshing. Any idea how many miles are on the skid?
Are you speaking of rear ride height when seated or empty. The banging sound you describe has me wondering though. If Dan's sled is nearby have a detailed look comparing all the arms. Something is making the noise...
Are you speaking of rear ride height when seated or empty. The banging sound you describe has me wondering though. If Dan's sled is nearby have a detailed look comparing all the arms. Something is making the noise...
Redbeard
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Have you greased the skid by chance?
As Doug mentioned, it may be time for a shock rebuild. Does your skid have a front and rear air spring. If so, inquire about the the Platinum Spec upgrade.
1 air bag 2 regular shocks.. I am thinking it was hitting against ice buildup.. I had the air pressure way too low
Soldier'spapa
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I rode this past weekend along with two guys who were on new sleds. One is a Doo 1200 Blizzard and the other a Poo Axys Adventure 600. We traded off sleds frequently while making spring and shock adjustments to "dial in" the new sleds. Both new sleds rode great while not quite as good as the M-20.
The only other sled from another brand I would consider as a replacement for my Apex would be some version of the Doo 1200. If it had power steering I would be on one right now. The seating position of the Doo puts my knees in a far more relaxed position and as I age that becomes more desirable. While the M-20 combined with the front shocks I'm running produced the best straight line bump absorbtion and control of our group my sled failed in the handling department. The new sleds both stayed much flatter in the corners than mine.
Cornering is where I am looking for better performance. I experience easy inside ski lift with my Apex and am looking for feedback from fellow M-20 users.
My equipment is as follows: 128" Ice Attack 1.22" track, Stock skid shocks with about 1200 miles on them, Stock Float 2"s rebuilt and revalved at Hygear this off season and fitted with their Dual Pressure Resi's, Snow Tracker aggressive runners on stock skis and 13mm sway bar.
My setup is as follows: Air spring set around 90 psi with me seated (this will allow slight bottoming only on the biggest hit), limiter strap drawn in slightly from where it was shipped from Fast and front ride height set with a-arms slightly above level (lower than seen in my avatar).
Half way through this past weekend I replaced the stock 11.75.. sway bar with the 13mm. This made an improvement but I'm looking for more. Ideas???
The only other sled from another brand I would consider as a replacement for my Apex would be some version of the Doo 1200. If it had power steering I would be on one right now. The seating position of the Doo puts my knees in a far more relaxed position and as I age that becomes more desirable. While the M-20 combined with the front shocks I'm running produced the best straight line bump absorbtion and control of our group my sled failed in the handling department. The new sleds both stayed much flatter in the corners than mine.
Cornering is where I am looking for better performance. I experience easy inside ski lift with my Apex and am looking for feedback from fellow M-20 users.
My equipment is as follows: 128" Ice Attack 1.22" track, Stock skid shocks with about 1200 miles on them, Stock Float 2"s rebuilt and revalved at Hygear this off season and fitted with their Dual Pressure Resi's, Snow Tracker aggressive runners on stock skis and 13mm sway bar.
My setup is as follows: Air spring set around 90 psi with me seated (this will allow slight bottoming only on the biggest hit), limiter strap drawn in slightly from where it was shipped from Fast and front ride height set with a-arms slightly above level (lower than seen in my avatar).
Half way through this past weekend I replaced the stock 11.75.. sway bar with the 13mm. This made an improvement but I'm looking for more. Ideas???
Redbeard
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You may try pulling up your front limiter strap even more to keep some weight on the ski's.
I wish you could ride my sled with the assault front shocks. It's completely different from stock. I'm not a super aggressive rider, but I feel stable in the corners. However, I have not ridden the new Doo's to compare the difference either.
I will say that being able to alter my front shocks in seconds has paid off. If I change the rear, I can quickly alter the front to match. My experience has been: adding air to the rear seems to lighten the front, vice versa.
Also, I'm not studded, so I can easily juice the throttle and whip the back end in a tight turn if needed.
I wish you could ride my sled with the assault front shocks. It's completely different from stock. I'm not a super aggressive rider, but I feel stable in the corners. However, I have not ridden the new Doo's to compare the difference either.
I will say that being able to alter my front shocks in seconds has paid off. If I change the rear, I can quickly alter the front to match. My experience has been: adding air to the rear seems to lighten the front, vice versa.
Also, I'm not studded, so I can easily juice the throttle and whip the back end in a tight turn if needed.
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Soldier'spapa
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Joe,
Do you get any "push" (under steer) in the corners? Since installing the Snow Trackers I get no push unless I'm in deep loose snow. Otherwise my sled simply goes where the skis are pointed with no darting at all. I think this might be contributing to my ski lift. They really bite well.
Do you get any "push" (under steer) in the corners? Since installing the Snow Trackers I get no push unless I'm in deep loose snow. Otherwise my sled simply goes where the skis are pointed with no darting at all. I think this might be contributing to my ski lift. They really bite well.
Redbeard
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It's depends on the trail conditions. If I do start pushing, I can quickly add a few psi to the ski shocks and/or remove a few psi from the skid. This seems to help.
I use USI triple threat ski's with 6" Stud Boy dually shaper bar. They have performed excellent so far for me; very little darting and excellent steering control.
I would like to try out a set of Curves some day, but I'm pretty satisfied with my current setup.
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Redbeard
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Doug, I corrected my post from yesterday:
My carbides are Stud Boy, not Woodys.
My carbides are Stud Boy, not Woodys.
Soldier'spapa
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I'm headed to my lake house tonight for the weekend. I will go directly to the limiter strap and shorten it. I'll check in with feedback.
As always...Thank you for the advise!
Redbeard
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After the trails this past week, I can tell my shock performance is starting to fall short. I've gone from Cadillac to Cavalier on ride quality.
This is my third season with this suspension, so I believe a re-fresh is in order this summer. It'll make one more trip this winter, but it's time.
