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Team Fast 136" M20 - 2011+ Apex XTX (Version 1.0)

Limiter strap was the key! Made it shorter by one hole and then fine tuned it using the adjustment bolt. It now corners flat. It is so much better that I was able to raise the air pressure in my float shocks to use more of their travel while still cornering flat! The skid also rides better than before the strap adjustment. I'm guessing the front skid shock is more in play than before...not sure though. This skid ROCKS!!!
 

That's great Doug! Glad to hear it!

;)!
 
I re-installed the pump without an external check valve for now. I had to stack some extra fittings in place to make up for the air line not being long enough to reach. As mentioned earlier, I don't think running without an external check valve would be possible without the solenoids I have stacked together. I'll know after the first ride.
I spent 7 straight days in the UP and had no issues with my pump not working in the morning. I'm going to move forward with having a new, correct length air line made. Again, I do not feel that running without a check valve would work if I didn't have solenoids stacked together to separate the front and rear air circuits.

I do have two more updates that I'm going to make before I make my final trip this winter:

1) I'm going to lower my handlebars by 1". I like the high bars for general riding and standing up, but I feel they limit my ability to really lean in a tight corner...or maybe I'm just getting lazy! ;)

2) I'm going to re-locate the front/rear activating switches from the ignition key panel back up to the left handlebar where I originally started. I've had zero issues with the current switch location, but I have to physically stop the machine to make an adjustment. I miss being able to just use my thumb for an adjustment without even having to stop or look down. There will be (2) double pole, double throw switches stacked together. Top switch will be rear (most used) and bottom will be front. Here's the updated wiring schematic:

M20 electrical schematic original.jpg
 
Limiter strap was the key! Made it shorter by one hole and then fine tuned it using the adjustment bolt. It now corners flat. It is so much better that I was able to raise the air pressure in my float shocks to use more of their travel while still cornering flat! The skid also rides better than before the strap adjustment. I'm guessing the front skid shock is more in play than before...not sure though. This skid ROCKS!!!

That is great news Doug. I have the Assault shocks but I also experience easy inside ski lift on occasion, so I think I will tighten up one hole and go from there. Thanks for the tip.
 
I spent 7 straight days in the UP and had no issues with my pump not working in the morning. I'm going to move forward with having a new, correct length air line made. Again, I do not feel that running without a check valve would work if I didn't have solenoids stacked together to separate the front and rear air circuits.

I do have two more updates that I'm going to make before I make my final trip this winter:

1) I'm going to lower my handlebars by 1". I like the high bars for general riding and standing up, but I feel they limit my ability to really lean in a tight corner...or maybe I'm just getting lazy! ;)

2) I'm going to re-locate the front/rear activating switches from the ignition key panel back up to the left handlebar where I originally started. I've had zero issues with the current switch location, but I have to physically stop the machine to make an adjustment. I miss being able to just use my thumb for an adjustment without even having to stop or look down. There will be (2) double pole, double throw switches stacked together. Top switch will be rear (most used) and bottom will be front. Here's the updated wiring schematic:


Some day I'd love to check out your sled in person...
 
That is great news Doug. I have the Assault shocks but I also experience easy inside ski lift on occasion, so I think I will tighten up one hole and go from there. Thanks for the tip.

Dan, Don't hesitate to experiment with the limiter. I was amazed how it affected handling. I found if I took it too short the back end became too loose. The sled no longer tracked straight. I then simply lengthened the strap a little and compliancy returned.
 
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Dan, Don't hesitate to experiment with the limiter. I was amazed how it affected handling. I found if I took it too short The track became too loose. The sled started to not track straight. Simply lengthen the strap a little and compliancy returned.

I am going to have a look at it later today. In the back of my mind I seem to recall a caution from Brian at Team Fast not to go too far with the adjustment. It is a bit foggy because at the time I had zero interest in adjusting it so was not paying particular attention, but I think if one goes too far it could end up damaging the front shock. I don't believe he was referring to just a one hole move though. My apologies to Brian if I have not properly characterized the conversation.
 
Limiter strap was the key! Made it shorter by one hole and then fine tuned it using the adjustment bolt. It now corners flat.
Any notable change in weight transfer from a dead stop?
 
Any notable change in weight transfer from a dead stop?

Joe, I think it stands to reason that it should. There is always a trade-off...darn-it!

Temps were warm and snow was loose this past weekend so I have to answer with...I don't know yet for sure, but if there is, it will still be worth it to me to not have the inside ski lift like it did.
 
Joe, I think it stands to reason that it should. There is always a trade-off...darn-it!

Temps were warm and snow was loose this past weekend so I have to answer with...I don't know yet for sure, but if there is, it will still be worth it to me to not have the inside ski lift like it did.

I adjusted the limiter strap by just adjusting the bolt, made a big difference yesterday morning. After lunch it was warmer and softer snow and the back end got really loose so I let it out a bit and it was fine. It really makes a difference. There was about a 2 mile stretch that had not yet been groomed, a logging road, and it was really bumpy. On the way home I opened it up a bit and could not believe the way the skid handled it. There was only one bump that lifted me off my seat.
I do have a problem that is driving me nuts though.....a very loud harmonic drone noise around 5000 rpm. I am guessing it is the track, 136" Ripsaw 2. I cannot swear it is the track but I have no idea what else would do it. I think I always had a bit of a drone but it is really irritating now. I am running the track with about an inch of slack.

Has anyone else experienced this?
 
Don't know what to say regarding the drone. I get it too. It seems to come and go...not always annoying.

Glad you are liking the limiter strap adjustments too! How do you feel the shorter strap affected inside ski lift?
 
Don't know what to say regarding the drone. I get it too. It seems to come and go...not always annoying.

Glad you are liking the limiter strap adjustments too! How do you feel the shorter strap affected inside ski lift?
Don't know what to say regarding the drone. I get it too. It seems to come and go...not always annoying.

Glad you are liking the limiter strap adjustments too! How do you feel the shorter strap affected inside ski lift?

It was a definite improvement for the ski lift, much flatter cornering. It's really nice to be able to adjust it to the conditions with just one wrench. The ride and handling of my machine is hugely improved over last year, just could not be happier.
 
It's really nice to be able to adjust it to the conditions with just one wrench.
We need to invent an electric actuator to lengthen or shorten the strap on the fly?

Screenshot_2016-02-12-07-18-39-1.png
 


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