Team Primary on Winder secondary mocked up

[jonlafon1]

So much of this is tune (horsepower) dependant. What works at 250-260 hp may not work the same at 270-280.

Very good point. As I ran real good with eco on a stock secondary @6/1. Not saying it’s the weights but I run pretty light on HH with a lot of tip weight and the middle REALLY light. It seemed to be very good IMO with the middle at .9 grams. It’s as if when your cruising at 50 and punch it that tip hits hard the HH.

 

[Fast]

Have one here but haven't tried it yet. My Doo puller wouldn't work on it so I have yet to get a puller for it.

They have always worked great on the 1200's with the exception that I've broke a few spring cups on them, even with the proper PB springs in place. I know they will take the power of the big tunes, just not sure for how long they will take the big power without spring cup breakage and puck distortion. Time will tell I guess. Don't expect quicker or faster though.

On a stocker or 240 setup they will be great I know.

Just read on another site that some dealers are using lock tight on the spline of the stub shaft and saying the rattle noise is completely gone anyone hear of this?Does the 998 motor have babbitt crank bearings?Is that why the stub shaft is designed like this?

 

[ClutchMaster]

Just read on another site that some dealers are using lock tight on the spline of the stub shaft and saying the rattle noise is completely gone anyone hear of this?Does the 998 motor have babbitt crank bearings?Is that why the stub shaft is designed like this?

Yes it has standard shell bearings. I think the stub is there so the motors can be utilized for different applications. Snowmobile, PWC, ATV, ect. thrust loads are carried by the stub. Too bad there’s no snap ring to prevent movement tho, seems like a bad design.

 

[Fast]

Yes it has standard shell bearings. I think the stub is there so the motors can be utilized for different applications. Snowmobile, PWC, ATV, ect. thrust loads are carried by the stub. Too bad there’s no snap ring to prevent movement tho, seems like a bad design.

What about lock tight on the spline's i hear it completely eliminates the rattle noise

 

[ClutchMaster]

Only one way to know for sure.

 

[SRXsledJockey]

Any videos of that NSSR stock turbo sled in your shop?

 

[Fast]

Only one way to know for sure.

Only question is how do you get the shaft out to change the bearing when its lock tighted in

 

[Crossfire12]

Wouldn’t you think if the clutch were moving on the splines causing the rattle it would come loose? Loctite to fill in gaps to stop rattle? Really wow

 

[KnappAttack]

If you read other posts of the guys that did the loctite trick on the splines. It eliminated the noise for about 50 miles, then it came right back. So much for that trick.

The only way to run the Yamaha primary and make it quiet properly, is to re-engineere it and put o-rings behind the tower sliders for zero clearance like they are doing on the Team, tighten up all the roller pins and clearance the rollers tighter side to side.

The Yamaha Primary just needs to be replaced by a better Yamaha clutch designed to be quiet and stronger.

 

[Fast]

If you read other posts of the guys that did the loctite trick on the splines. It eliminated the noise for about 50 miles, then it came right back. So much for that trick.

The only way to run the Yamaha primary and make it quiet properly, is to re-engineere it and put o-rings behind the tower sliders for zero clearance like they are doing on the Team, tighten up all the roller pins and clearance the rollers tighter side to side.

The Yamaha Primary just needs to be replaced by a better Yamaha clutch designed to be quiet and stronger.

One guy used green lock tight bearing retainer think it was 680 and let it harden for a week and aparently its still good after 1 year ,but how would you get it apart when you need to service the bearing

 

[ClutchMaster]

One guy used green lock tight bearing retainer think it was 680 and let it harden for a week and aparently its still good after 1 year ,but how would you get it apart when you need to service the bearing

Yea not recommended

 

[lakercr]

If you read other posts of the guys that did the loctite trick on the splines. It eliminated the noise for about 50 miles, then it came right back. So much for that trick.

The only way to run the Yamaha primary and make it quiet properly, is to re-engineere it and put o-rings behind the tower sliders for zero clearance like they are doing on the Team, tighten up all the roller pins and clearance the rollers tighter side to side.

The Yamaha Primary just needs to be replaced by a better Yamaha clutch designed to be quiet and stronger.

The part in bold is the best bang for your buck, and it works. I was in my dealer's shop the other day and he had 2 brand new SRX being set up. The first was just getting PDI, but the other was getting a tune and clutching, which included tightening up the roller pins. Running the 2 sleds side/side there was a considerable difference in the sound of the two clutches. I'm not near my sled right now, but will throw up a couple of pics later.

 

[@123]

let us no how this works out for u , I tried the purple spring on your tight muskoka trails , didn't like it clutching ran to hot , also tried the black / tan , it ran warmer at slower speeds vs much cooler at faster speeds , I'm now back with the black /orange at 80 degrees , so far its the coolest temp vs the other springs , also less back shift , its a really toss up between the black /tan and the black /orange .

what degree you run tan spring 3-2?

 

[johan]

I got this beauty now, gona set it up with 911 cover and use the 8dn belt. I cant wait to testdrive it.

 

[74Nitro]

I got this beauty now, gona set it up with 911 cover and use the 8dn belt. I cant wait to testdrive it.

Isn't the 8dn too narrow?