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Testing with TD GPS/Dragy

RAMSOMAIR said:
Never seen one that holds after installing new bushing now that I had my experience and talked with others
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I wish now that I hadn't bothered changing it. I had 13000km on it and figured I should. I still have the one I took out and it looks as good as the one I picked up today.
 

SideHogger said:
Well, I did 4mm off shaft with 2mm washer, Offset at 57.8 and so far no issues. Get full shift and doesnt hit anything on backside.
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I hope your shims behind the shaft are smaller Dia than the shaft or you will bind on the shim. 4 MM is too much and the sheave will run over the end. Did you think to check your stub shaft before you machined the secondary?
 
KnappAttack said:
I hope your shims behind the shaft are smaller Dia than the shaft or you will bind on the shim. 4 MM is too much and the sheave will run over the end. Did you think to check your stub shaft before you machined the secondary?
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Stub shaft redone also. But I must ask, if you add the same size as shaft washers, aren’t you defeating the purpose of machining the shaft in the first place?
 
SideHogger said:
Stub shaft redone also. But I must ask, if you add the same size as shaft washers, aren’t you defeating the purpose of machining the shaft in the first place?
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If you take the spring out and cycle the secondary on your bench you'll see what Mike it talking about. With 4mm off you'll see it goes beyond the shaft. 3mm is super close. 2mm is safe. I am at 3mm and have one washer ground to match the shaft just to be sure.
 
SideHogger said:
Stub shaft redone also. But I must ask, if you add the same size as shaft washers, aren’t you defeating the purpose of machining the shaft in the first place?
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Yes, but you said above you machined 4mm and have a 2mm washer. What I'm saying if that washer isn't less than the Dia of the shaft in the back, the sheave will run into it and not allow a full shift and not allow the sheave to travel fully. I've seen guys that have done that before and blow the belt.

If the stub shaft is pushed all the way into place and seated like its supposed to be, I've never seen a machine that needs the secondary machined, and I've had quite a few run thru here. Typically they need the stock shims removed, at most the stock shims and the circlip. I think most are machining before addressing and taking care of the stub shaft first. I've seen new stub shafts not seated from the factory properly too.
 
Had a similar issue with a friends Apex. Dealer changed the bushing and it walked out on our annual trip. We were able to tap it back in and used red loctite, it never moved again. The dealer had greased the bushing and whatever grease that was used eventually got hard and jammed the bushing on the shaft causing it to walk out of the pressed fit.
 
SnowDust, KnappAttack, I do understand what you are explaining to me but when you machine washers down so sheave is allowed to move over it, aren’t you defeating the purpose of machining shaft in the first place? This is what I don’t get. I have put just inner sheave on shaft with the 2mm washer and it doesn’t hit or seem to be binding at all. It also made shaft even with moveable sheave at full shift with belt in clutches. I did buy a used secondary with the shaft machined 8mm (unfortunately) and can see where shaft would go so far in on bushing that, clutch would wobble and take bushing out. Needless to say, I never put it on sled.
 
SideHogger said:
SnowDust, KnappAttack, I do understand what you are explaining to me but when you machine washers down so sheave is allowed to move over it, aren’t you defeating the purpose of machining shaft in the first place? This is what I don’t get. I have put just inner sheave on shaft with the 2mm washer and it doesn’t hit or seem to be binding at all. It also made shaft even with moveable sheave at full shift with belt in clutches. I did buy a used secondary with the shaft machined 8mm (unfortunately) and can see where shaft would go so far in on bushing that, clutch would wobble and take bushing out. Needless to say, I never put it on sled.
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No, but machining and adding washers/spacers back in is deleting the purpose. I understand why you'd want to do it to have some adjustment by machining 4mm off and adding 2mm back in, but the sheave will override that 4mm you took off and run into the washers because it wants to travel further than that at full shift and run into the spacers if they are not smaller diameter than the shaft of the secondary. If the movable runs into the washers you added back in it will limit the belt travel and the primary is still pulling on the belt while the secondary is stuck pushing on the shims, hence it will blow the belt.

Taking 3 mm off the shaft is too much and will run over the end of the shaft, so if there is a large shim there the movable stops before full travel of the secondary.
 
I totally agree with what Knapp is saying I have ran into this same problem. Guys are checking there alignment with out making sure there stub shaft hasn't moved and removing mat. off of the secondary shaft when it doesn't need to be basically ruining it. SideHogger I would remove and check your stub shaft and make sure it is in spec I hate to say it but you may need to buy a new half of secondary. I have worked on several Winders and there alignment was off but not to the point the shaft needed machining. I have removed all the washers on a few and the shaft is up against the clip( including my own) but have not had any issues so far. I know this is very frustrating and I hope you get it figured out.
 
So, I took off secondary, took out spring, put belt in secondary to simulate full shift and shaft is flush with bushing. TPAY243, this is a new secondary half cause my original was cracking so I replaced with new thanks to Steve w/ocd! As stated before, stub shaft was removed and pressed fully in. I am at 57.8mm on offset EXACTLY! Running Apex clutch like Knapp and all seems very good at this time. Maybe I have an abnormality with length of shaft on secondary?
 
Is that with your old machined shaft or with a new secondary shaft. If that bushing is flush with the end of the shaft that's to much in my eyes. Like Knapp said if your washers are not a smaller od than the shaft that bushing can hit or rub on the washer and screw up your bushing. If you can get it that close to the end of the shaft by hand I would bet that under load your going past. To bad you don't have another secondary to put on there and see where you are at just for shitz and giggles.
 
The last few posts are very important IMO and we all know lots of secondary's have been machined. Wondering if someone gets a chance to post pics if they could.. What Mike is saying is correct, and is probably going to cause issues for some that removed to much material.. many also do not spend enough time at FULL out shift while trail riding.. I feel if you cycle the secondary without spring and its flush with bushing its fine.. My 2 cents. When I get a chance I will post pic of mine as I want measure helix angle. I believe I removed 2-3 MM on mine.. I cant remember But I do know I cycled and thought about exactly what's being mentioned in this thread
 
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