Transfer blocks

[Doc Harley]

Yo bro......35 "inch" lbs. What is that like 3ft lbs? It's lighter than I like. I had them sank into track. But the backers looked concaved. To me anyway. So I loosen them all & retorqued to 35 "inch" lbs.

Studboy w/nylon backers. Did not see any spec on studboys site.

 

[fatchance]

lol! I had to read your post again. I'm sure different manufacturers specs vary, but I know it's 12 to 15 ft lbs for Warthogs with aluminum backers which sets the head into the track more than what yours are showing.
That said, You have plastic backers so i guess the 3 ft lbs is accurate. I still would hit them again. They will set in more.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Studs that are to loose will tear out MUCH easier and tear up Boggie wheels. I don’t torque them, I sink the heads into the track 1/16”

 

[Doc Harley]

Ok.....well I normally hit them with a driver until the stud is seated.
Same thing this time. Few of the studs definitely got over torqued. So I decided to look for torque values. Studboy doesn't offer. But found another manufacturer that stated 35in lbs. So I took them all loose & torqued them to that value.
Some of the studs wouldn't get seated correctly no manner what. Cause of the silent track bumps. Hmmmm.

No biggie, sleds up in the air and no drive belt will make this quick. I'll give them an some additional squeeze......

 

[**sj**]

Studs that are to loose will tear out MUCH easier and tear up Boggie wheels. I don’t torque them, I sink the heads into the track 1/16”

Agree... my studs are tight... don't need no stinkin' torque wrench. Lol
One of the reasons I'm not a fan of woodys... is the high shoulder and previously the lack of capture on some of the thinner// softer mat tracks..

 

[Doc Harley]

X3 anyone? This place is starting to give me the warm & fussy feeling of dootalk. Just in time for the holidays.....

 

[cannondale27]

X3 sink them. 15ft lbs or more. Whatever it takes or your wheels will be shot and greater odds of pull through.

 

[Doc Harley]

Ok, studs were given the once over. Studs at quite pads, is what it is, I guess.

Thanks gentleman

 

[TrueBlue]

The factory cranks the living snot out of those. Big hammer and a nice piece of aluminum does least damage. Big Screwdriver and big hammer does trick too but will nick it. By now you probably don't care though. Hit it like you mean it! One nick is better than many.

A big channel lock works great to loosen those rings .

 

[snowbeast]

I ran mine without the blocks last year for a while. Lined up the pads and the flat spot on the bar. Found that the pads (2 square parts on the transfer linkage) we’re getting bent from hitting the bar.
Ended up machining the short side of the blocks down as far as possible leaving about 1/8” before breaking through to the center. Worked very well.
Considered taking the bar right out as Knapp suggested, but worried about hitting back wheels or doing other damage.

How many running without the bar? Any damage?! Is it that much better?

I tried w/out bar,but it would hit,and even with blocks in on number 1 and machined down,still not great,so this year I just for this last ride,put blocks back in,on #1.

 

[race24x]

I saw a couple of posts on this talking about tightening the limiter straps. I thought shortening them put weight on the front skis and loosening them allowed for more transfer. Is that wrong?

 

[cannondale27]

I saw a couple of posts on this talking about tightening the limiter straps. I thought shortening them put weight on the front skis and loosening them allowed for more transfer. Is that wrong?

That is correct. Dont do it unless you have to.

 

[snowbeast]

That is correct. Dont do it unless you have to.

Don't do what steve unless you have to?

 

[snowbeast]

Have you tested them? If you haven't I suggest you do to before claiming a gain. If you want better track angles just sack out the suspension. You are far better off doing this than changing wheel size most of the time. I have however seen case where machines run faster when in the air too. You always need to test the theory on the machines in the conditions they will get run in.

I have done the testing on the same day at the drag strip on timers. Larger front drivers (yes, I adjusted to have the same ratio) actually robbed a very slight bit of ET. IMO I prefer to run smaller front drives for a lower final drive ratio at the track while adjusting gearcase for speed to be run.

Adjusting back wheel size to a 1" larger wheel did nothing for speed or et either way. I could not test this during the same day however as I need to move the wheel up on the rail to keep all wheels on the same contact plane. Testing was done one day apart at the strip with similar temps and corrected altitude.

I tested this wheel size and front drive size stuff on my 700 Improver, on my 1000 Improver and my 800 Pro-Stock drag sled that would outrun all the 1000 Pro-Stock sleds for years. This testing was done in 1/4 mile runs on Asphalt and 660 for on the ice at speeds just under 150 MPH, my 1000 Pro-Stocker did run just shy of 160 MPH in 1/4 mile all using small rear wheels and small 10 tooth 2.52" front drives. I saw absolutely ZERO gains using larger rear wheels and actually a slight decrease in performance going to larger front drivers, so you will never make me a believer.

I have many ET and speed records that still stand to this day NOT using large wheels and drivers so I get a kick out of the people that think they have to switch to them or insist that they work for a performance gain, because they did nothing for me when I tested those theories at speeds up to 160 MPH drag racing on ice and asphalt. I would also go speed running at the end of the drag season and set NSSR speed records as well. So the small wheels and drivers certainly don't seem to be to hurting things too bad there either.

The theory that larger wheels and front drives are more efficient comes from the aftermarket trying to sell you stuff you do not need IMO.

Mike do you feel conferdant to run w/out rod in back,w/out the sizzor bracket hitting wheels,mine are Larson 8" wheels,a tad wider than any I have run before for 4 wheel kit,i just don't want to have sizzor bang into OD of wheels and junk out such a nice set up. And I did run with just rod most of last year,with just damage to the flat spot on each side of rod that the blocks lock into. I even tried a drilled set of holes further back and slightly up,with bad luck to the blocks only,as flat plates on rear siccors,did not line up correctly. Mike my concern is my weight 235 dressed,the way we pound thru the trails,but with out it coupling it sure rides better,i am not so concerned with ski lifting transfer,as much as better ride,and some transfer,but it does have to turn,my straps right now are full out,and with just that it does lift the skis better,and rides better,but thinking if I remove bar,will need to pull straps back to stock setting,which on mine was 2nd from full out. Any advise would be nice.

 

[KnappAttack]

Mike do you feel conferdant to run w/out rod in back,w/out the sizzor bracket hitting wheels,mine are Larson 8" wheels,a tad wider than any I have run before for 4 wheel kit,i just don't want to have sizzor bang into OD of wheels and junk out such a nice set up. And I did run with just rod most of last year,with just damage to the flat spot on each side of rod that the blocks lock into. I even tried a drilled set of holes further back and slightly up,with bad luck to the blocks only,as flat plates on rear siccors,did not line up correctly. Mike my concern is my weight 235 dressed,the way we pound thru the trails,but with out it coupling it sure rides better,i am not so concerned with ski lifting transfer,as much as better ride,and some transfer,but it does have to turn,my straps right now are full out,and with just that it does lift the skis better,and rides better,but thinking if I remove bar,will need to pull straps back to stock setting,which on mine was 2nd from full out. Any advise would be nice.

Pete, I don't and won't run large wheels and could not say whether they would hit or not. I would test it in the shop first with a block under the back of the rails only and have one realy big friend help you with compressing it down to see how close it comes to hitting.

How can you keep the front end down without the transfer blocks? Even with the blocks in, I can't keep the front end down on my sled. I put the Racewerx adjuster in to make quick adjustments.