upper gear bushing

[lilrez]

There are so many variables Maybe reversing out of a cold trailer with a dry bushing is harder on it and some need to do this before each ride. I hardly ever use reverse and when I do it's after the oil is warm and in the middle of a ride or gas station.

 

[Janne339]

when reversing, the bushing and jackshaft rotate in opposite directions. Lot of reversing kill that bushing fast.

 

[lilrez]

Yes. Can u imagine that in -30degree temps after sitting for a week in a trailer May be better to lift rear of sled and spin it forward a couple times to help reduce wear.

Maybe sometimes we need to stop challenging on poor design and change our habits....my wife likes shifting the truck back into forward while its still moving in reverse. Lol

 

[Crossfire12]

I use reverse all the time no problems yet 2500 miles.

 

[ClutchMaster]

There are so many variables Maybe reversing out of a cold trailer with a dry bushing is harder on it and some need to do this before each ride. I hardly ever use reverse and when I do it's after the oil is warm and in the middle of a ride or gas station.

when reversing, the bushing and jackshaft rotate in opposite directions. Lot of reversing kill that bushing fast.

Crazy Talk!
How much power/torque is being transferred through the gearcase when in reverse?
All speculation, do some real world testing then let’s hear the results.

The wear on the bushing is NOT rotational wear. If you look closely at a worn bushing there are no radial wear marks. If the bushing was worn out from rotating, there would absolutely be visible scoring. The failure is 100% caused by shock loading.

IMO it’s caused by the HYVO chain climbing up slightly in the gears when under power. The HYVO chain has a round crest at the top and bottom of the tooth profile. When the chain is tight, the rounded profile acts like a ramp which pushes the chain up and out of the gear slightly until the chain makes full contact with the face of the gear. Very similar to standard roller chain on a motorcycle.

 

[number1kyster]

McMaster carr #6381k563

So, you are just pushing the old bushing out, and pressing the new bushing in?

I ordered a new top gear last week, but I'm not sure if it is a good idea to use a new gear with my original chain.

 

[lilrez]

Crazy talk..lol. ya could be. Was just a thought.

 

[lilrez]

I went to order a couple as well but was 15 dollars to ship to canada. So at this point its cheaper for me to just replace the gear every mid season inspection

 

[ClutchMaster]

So, you are just pushing the old bushing out, and pressing the new bushing in?

I ordered a new top gear last week, but I'm not sure if it is a good idea to use a new gear with my original chain.

Yes just pressing out the old and in with the new. It requires trimming the bushing which I do after it’s pressed in.
A new gear will be just fine with the old chain.
Just don’t over tighten the chain!!!!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Cannondale27,
Hard for me to agree w your statement about Cat clutches wearing out faster than stock Cat clutches.
We have 3 2017 TCats w 280HP tunes, lots of studs, etc, w around 4000 miles on each. All w stock Team clutches. Running 82 gms. 21/38 gearing. We just looked at all the clutches and they're all like new, literally. No worn weight bushings, no worn rollers, spiders still tight, no worn rollers or helixes in seconaries. Literally like new. And no, we don't baby them either. We run them like everyone else runs boosted turbos. So, at least for me, the Team clutches are outstanding!

Great to hear this.....I would have no problem trying a Cat 998 next if I came across a good deal ect. I know the TEAM clutches dont rattle like my "diesel" Yam..lol . I do feel the TEAM does not grab as hard on take-off, it actually burns the belt when on pavement or trailer loading ect. Do Cat setups still need to be shimmed like I did with my 2012?

Also, with that tall gearing...are you guys doing ok with belt life? 112 belt or 827Ultimax?

If the darn 2020 Tcat spindles weren't so ugly Id grab one of them I think for the price...heck maybe I will just replace or PC them black....ahh decisions decisions!

Dan

 

[sideshowBob]

Yes just pressing out the old and in with the new. It requires trimming the bushing which I do after it’s pressed in.
A new gear will be just fine with the old chain.
Just don’t over tighten the chain!!!!

What do you consider to be "over tight" on chain adjustment?

 

[ClutchMaster]

What do you consider to be "over tight" on chain adjustment?

Well I would set mine what I thought to be just right according to the “old way” of adjusting chain tension and it was too tight. The problem is finger tight is subjective and you can crank the chain dam tight with just your fingers. Here’s what I did last time I adjusted the chain.

With case open I tightened the chain until I could start to feel the adjuster getting resistance. I could have easily gotten another 1/2 of a turn more with my fingers but I stopped. The chain was now fairly tight. Normally I would back out the adjuster 1/2 turn and call it good. Went with the yamaha spec of 1.5 turns out. You end up with a chain that’s pretty loose IMO. It actually can flop around some but not terrible.

That’s the way I did it and as you can see very little bushing wear.

 

[STAIN]

Received some bushings to try

left to right BB-16 Sintered Iron/Copper Sleeve, Oil & PTFE Impregnated Sleeve, Steel Backed PTFE Lined Sleeve Bushing, Oil Impregnated Bronze Sleeve

 

[74Nitro]

Received some bushings to try

left to right BB-16 Sintered Iron/Copper Sleeve, Oil & PTFE Impregnated Sleeve, Steel Backed PTFE Lined Sleeve Bushing, Oil Impregnated Bronze Sleeve

Which are you trying first? I'm leaning towards the steel or iron.

 

[STAIN]

Not sure. I am leaning towards the Steel Backed PTFE Lined Sleeve Bushing. Although that BB-16 Sintered Iron/Copper Sleeve seems like it would be tough. I don't want to wear the shaft, but I don't believe that will happen because, as ClutchMaster pointed out, it is NOT rotational wear.