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upper gear bushing

Great to hear this.....I would have no problem trying a Cat 998 next if I came across a good deal ect. I know the TEAM clutches dont rattle like my "diesel" Yam..lol . I do feel the TEAM does not grab as hard on take-off, it actually burns the belt when on pavement or trailer loading ect. Do Cat setups still need to be shimmed like I did with my 2012?

Also, with that tall gearing...are you guys doing ok with belt life? 112 belt or 827Ultimax?

If the darn 2020 Tcat spindles weren't so ugly Id grab one of them I think for the price...heck maybe I will just replace or PC them black....ahh decisions decisions!

Dan
Come on over to Cat, you know you want to haha. But agree that brown is just awful, I feel like they loose a bunch of sales this year on greatly priced sleds due to the brown suspension parts.
 

The iron/copper will take the most load. I would be willing to bet if you set the chain loose it will never wear out.
 
The iron/copper will take the most load. I would be willing to bet if you set the chain loose it will never wear out.

I have been testning all the way from 1/2 turn to 2 turns out. Doesn't matter.. And it not "crazy talk".... ;)

Gonna test SKF PCZ 1616 E or SKF PCZ 1616 M bushings
:drink:
 
I have been testning all the way from 1/2 turn to 2 turns out. Doesn't matter.. And it not "crazy talk".... ;)

Gonna test SKF PCZ 1616 E or SKF PCZ 1616 M bushings
:drink:
Im going to ride in reverse for a couple trips just to help me better understand whats whats and so i dont talk crazy no more. Lol JK
 
I have been testning all the way from 1/2 turn to 2 turns out. Doesn't matter.. And it not "crazy talk".... ;)

Gonna test SKF PCZ 1616 E or SKF PCZ 1616 M bushings
:drink:

Please explain my results then?
 
I’m having a hard time getting my head around this one. Seems to me the tension on that bushing during acceleration would far exceed anything you could apply with your fingers and a tensioner. Plus, when you back the tensioner off you are essentially loosening the chain and allowing the spring to keep things snug. At rest the tension is the same on the chain at 1 turn out or at 1.5 or with no bolt at all. Under load the chain on the non tensioner side becomes tight and all slack is on the tensioner side and the spring takes out the slack. Someone mentioned about shock load being the issue. I wonder if people blowing belts are shock loading the bushing and that takes it out? That could explain why some have no issues and some are killing the bushing in 500 miles. Mine was completely fine at 2600 miles and I’ve had zero blown belts. Anyhow, just a thought.
 
Im going to ride in reverse for a couple trips just to help me better understand whats whats and so i dont talk crazy no more. Lol JK

If you get stuck in loose snow and spinning track in reverse its wearing the bushing. Thats my experience.
 
I have been testning all the way from 1/2 turn to 2 turns out. Doesn't matter.. And it not "crazy talk".... ;)

Gonna test SKF PCZ 1616 E or SKF PCZ 1616 M bushings
:drink:

My info is good and factual.
I’m confident in my findings.
I failed three bushings before this now I have more miles on this one and it looks like new.
 
I’m having a hard time getting my head around this one. Seems to me the tension on that bushing during acceleration would far exceed anything you could apply with your fingers and a tensioner. Plus, when you back the tensioner off you are essentially loosening the chain and allowing the spring to keep things snug. At rest the tension is the same on the chain at 1 turn out or at 1.5 or with no bolt at all. Under load the chain on the non tensioner side becomes tight and all slack is on the tensioner side and the spring takes out the slack. Someone mentioned about shock load being the issue. I wonder if people blowing belts are shock loading the bushing and that takes it out? That could explain why some have no issues and some are killing the bushing in 500 miles. Mine was completely fine at 2600 miles and I’ve had zero blown belts. Anyhow, just a thought.

I have never blown a belt on this sled...ever.
I also don’t use reverse in deep snow, it has a tendency to ruin my snow flap.
The results speak for themselves, that’s all I need to know.
If your destroying bushings take my advice or not.
 
My info is good and factual.
I’m confident in my findings.
I failed three bushings before this now I have more miles on this one and it looks like new.

I have no doubt about your experience. But myself I have not been able to see any connection with the wearing bushing and chain tension.
 
Used to like this stuff at work...root cause analysis, so a proper fix can be made! Don't like it so much on my personal stuff though..lol!
I don't believe any of us run in reverse enough to wear out the bushing. Some of the posts show a ton of wear. So that's out, imo. What's left to cause this? Can't be lube, as the bushing is locked to the shaft with the splined gear in forward. So that's out.
All the power is transferred through the splined jackshaft, to the splined gear, which then drives the top gear, and 'pulls' on the chain. Since it's a fluid world (with all due respect to my imprisoned friend who coined this phrase), the shaft is deflecting down, since it's tryin to pull the chain up and turn the track. Don't know how much.... it it will deflect something...tenths....thousandths. ..who knows. The drive axle shaft seems to be better supported, so would bend up less as it's pulled on. The chain will stretch under power also, to some extent. So unless supported with another bearing beyond the splined gear, the jackshaft bends.
So there is some misalignment happening. Can a harmonic begin pounding the bushing, even under partial load, or braking, when chain tension matters most? And once an out of round condition starts, it's downhill from there? It would be interesting to measure out of round on a worn bushing, the original clearance between the bushing and shaft, on a new one, etc etc....there is always a reason!
Fascinating! lol
 
Screenshot_2019-03-26-09-10-58.png
Screenshot_2019-03-26-09-17-35.png




Since I'm more familiar with the yamaha chaincases, 22 and 2 are bearings, supporting the jackshaft, as it passes through the chaincase, and outer cover, as the brake is on the outside. The reverse actuation is on the bottom, and the bottom has the sliding gear. I am a fan of this case...lol.

The cat chaincase has one bearing, 12, supporting the jackshaft, with the reverse actuation,gears, etc all on the top.
 
View attachment 147723 View attachment 147724



Since I'm more familiar with the yamaha chaincases, 22 and 2 are bearings, supporting the jackshaft, as it passes through the chaincase, and outer cover, as the brake is on the outside. The reverse actuation is on the bottom, and the bottom has the sliding gear. I am a fan of this case...lol.

The cat chaincase has one bearing, 12, supporting the jackshaft, with the reverse actuation,gears, etc all on the top.
Probably will never see this design used again because this space is needed for our right foot with these rider forward machines. Otherwise it was a great design. I think it was Polaris that came up with this basic concept many, many years ago.
 


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