• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Using my Phazer MTX 2013

Psycho Dave said:
Yamaha Center in Östersund do really stink so I do understand if you don't use them any more, I'm doing my best to avoid using them.

I agree and they will not get a single penny from me any longer. I will do my business with Yamahacenter Örnsköldsvik in the future. Heard a lot of good things about them.
 

Today I got a package from the states. My clutch kit! Looks nice and a lot of giveaways in the package =)

20131007_164948.jpg


20131007_164931.jpg


20131007_164811.jpg


Funny that you can send stuff from USA and get it before you get your stuff from the local Yamaha store 10 km away ordered in May.
This Yamaha store is a shame for Yamaha! I will do my business with a store 270 km away now just to get some service worth something.
 
Went down to my workshop this evening to mount the clutch kit.
Started with the primary.

20131007_204411.jpg


Removed the original spring.

20131007_204424.jpg


And after that I did not take any more pictures =)

I polished and cleaned all the parts and weights in the primary. Drilled out the rivets from the weights and hammered all the new ones in place.

Then I took the secondary apart and cleaned it and polished everything so it will run smooth. Inserted the new helix and used the old circlip just for today. I still wait for the new ones that I ordered a couple a months ago now. I will change it as soon as I get them.
I'm thinking of the ride height of the belt on the secondary. How high do you have it? The tensions seems pretty good, because when I lifted the sled about and tried the clutch kit out on idle the belt wanted creep slowly forward as it should. I don't really like this secondary clutch compared to the Team Tied clutch that I had on my old sled.
Wishing for snow now!
 
I took apart the secondary a last time now to change the circlip holding the clutch together.
Polished and waxed the helix so it would run smooth while gearing.

20131010_214534.jpg


I removed a shim in the clutch to get the belt to ride higher on the sheaves. I guess it's perfect now. Any opinions on that?

20131010_212239.jpg


How crucial is it to get the degrees right when you do the helix twist while mounting everything back together again? The manual says you have to turn the sliding sheave 55° CCW and I tried to measure that out. I mean, is it 55° exactly or will like 53-57° work? How do I know the twist angle is working when I'm out riding?
 
The 30 mm aluminium axle turned in to two axles this week.
Will polish them and mount them this evening.

20131011_153534.jpg
 
Now everything is mounted in place and it works just fine.
I would like to get some billet wheels, powder coat them black and make a arctic cat wheel style on them. Join them together to form one wide wheel. I will try this out at first and see if I like it. I saved all the original parts, so I can just change everything back.

20131011_205028.jpg


There is the end cap with a guide pin to fit within the slide. All my measures was perfect and everything fitted nicely =) I'm lucky sometimes too =)

20131011_213046.jpg


The smaller wheels I just flipped to the inside position and made a shorter axle. It's also a bit thicker than original.
Maybe I do not feel any different from the original setup, but all this set me back just 12 USD. Can be worth trying =)
 
Awesome! I hate two wheel setups though. Especially with the adjusters out the back. In my opinion you are asking for trouble.

More twist will raise your rpm. The charts and corresponding holes are a close reference only. Any difference in helix spline and ramp position vs oem would throw all those references way off. Its not that hard to experiment except for those dang clips which have failed many of us. Start where they recommend and go from there. As long as ramps are against buttons at rest you wont hurt a thing.
 
cannondale27 said:
Awesome! I hate two wheel setups though. Especially with the adjusters out the back. In my opinion you are asking for trouble.

Maybe it's trouble. But I have seen many solutions that uses the Yamaha OEM adjuster for the two wheel setup. So it should work I guess =)
I will give it a thought and maybe some more people have their opinion that they want to share?

IMAG0294.jpg


oemadj-bignutz.jpg


And with the twist angle on the secondary, I guess I just have to wait for snow and see what RPM I get?
 
Most people actually go from 3 wheels to 4 just for the extra insurance. Nothing can ruin a ride like a broken wheel if there isn't extras to keep you going. I can understand you're trying to reduce rolling resistance but at what cost?
 
Made a sway bar disconnect in this style today.

dsc02358c.jpg


I'm thinking of making a couple of holders under the sled to hold the sway bar while disconnected. Imagine continue to bend the sway bar backwards like in this picture and then hook it up to keep it in place.

IMG_0768.jpg


Removing the sway bar would make the trail runs a bit too risky, so this can maybe be fun.
 
weldion said:
cannondale27 said:
Awesome! I hate two wheel setups though. Especially with the adjusters out the back. In my opinion you are asking for trouble.

Maybe it's trouble. But I have seen many solutions that uses the Yamaha OEM adjuster for the two wheel setup. So it should work I guess =)
I will give it a thought and maybe some more people have their opinion that they want to share?

I ran a two wheel setup last season with my 151" challenger track and timbersled skid.. Works awsome, the oversized wheels I have are holding up great and I cant se any aditional stress on the rails. I dont se why it would hold up any worse.. Wheels are there to alow the track to rotate it's not like the sled is putting weight on the wheels to any great extent. Most new mountain sleds ome with centered wheels and its a great development I would say (arctic, ski-dooo and polaris only have 2 wheels in the rear on the mountain sleds.. not sure why Yamah doesnt follow suit on this one..)
 
soldi said:
weldion said:
cannondale27 said:
Awesome! I hate two wheel setups though. Especially with the adjusters out the back. In my opinion you are asking for trouble.

Maybe it's trouble. But I have seen many solutions that uses the Yamaha OEM adjuster for the two wheel setup. So it should work I guess =)
I will give it a thought and maybe some more people have their opinion that they want to share?

I ran a two wheel setup last season with my 151" challenger track and timbersled skid.. Works awsome, the oversized wheels I have are holding up great and I cant se any aditional stress on the rails. I dont se why it would hold up any worse.. Wheels are there to alow the track to rotate it's not like the sled is putting weight on the wheels to any great extent. Most new mountain sleds ome with centered wheels and its a great development I would say (arctic, ski-dooo and polaris only have 2 wheels in the rear on the mountain sleds.. not sure why Yamah doesnt follow suit on this one..)

How much oversized are your wheels? What size are they?
 


Back
Top