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Want HOT hands?..It can be done!!! EDITED FIRST POST

hey guys...I agree the draw is more and I was the first one who thought there would be issues or error codes...but im the type of person who will try anything to get end result..so i tested it....two full days now of riding,no problems.

as for "injuring the unexpecting"....LOL..come on guys,were talking about hotgrips here...are you saying we might burn our hands?..lol.

they do get HOT...this is why I posted to keep them under half at most....In trails i had them on one BAR and they were cooking...it would be awesome to complete this experiment with a way to get them alittle cooler(imagine that,LOL)..so any of you electrical wizards,if you can come up with a resistor idea,im all for it.

as for burning something up in the electrical system....isnt that what fuses are for?...I ASSUME the fuse would blow first,before doing any damage.

87gtnos:
thanks for the kind words...Im so glad I never ventured back to DT after I jumped ship....I had heard lots about the "stakeburning" and glad i never read it for myself....Its only sleds,so I moved on and had no desire to go back to the dark side..LOL.

dont forget to make it over for 17th on our track,HGR radar runs..should be fun...

Jeff here has your same NOS setup...it rocks!..you must be having fun with that!

take care
dan
 

machzed said:
87gtnos:

dont forget to make it over for 17th on our track,HGR radar runs..should be fun...

Jeff here has your same NOS setup...it rocks!..you must be having fun with that!

take care
dan

Sorry Dan, I will be way the frik up north sledding into Quebec!!!! Maybe at the ballet at night ;)!

Let me know how that nitrous sled runs!!
 
It's simple. As someone stated earlier, going from series to parallel will give you 4 times the load (current)(from adding in series to 1/2 of 1 in parallel). Yes, this means they will draw 4 times the power and be 4 times as hot. Setting on 1/4 max will be equivalent to the old max. The only issue will be if the power source can supply the current with all power devices (lights, grips, engine, etc.) running. It sounds like it is sufficient.

Yammie would never sanction this because even if there is enough current generating capacity, the grips could fail or someone could burn their hands and sue and Yammie would be liable. But, for the life of me I cannot figure out why they didn't just go parallel and up the resistance of the grips or drop the voltage to them so they couldn't get too hot. Like maybe the equivalent of twice the power, or 1/2 full setting with machzed's arrangement. I mean, it is just ohms law. It isn't rocket science. Maybe they were just trying to address too much like was stated earlier. I would say go with the fix suggested, and just be careful when going up past 1/2 full setting. Good job machzed. ;)!
 
My intention here is not to bash.

I’m going to do this mod, thanks for being the lab-rat here mach.

as for "injuring the unsuspecting"....LOL..come on guys,were talking about hotgrips here...are you saying we might burn our hands?..lol.
I don’t mean you or I or anyone with a lick of common sense…you know…common sense is not all that common.

So tell me smarty-pants how hot will they actually get? Have you measured them with an IR temp gun after a sustained run 20-30-60min run above 5000rpm (how most people ride) on the high setting which it could intentionally or unintentionally be set to? At what temperature will the element melt through the grip material? At what temperatures will protected and unprotected human skin be damaged? This is the kind of stuff Yamaha would be considering.
http://www.jhu.edu/~jhumag/495web/touch.html

as for burning something up in the electrical system....isnt that what fuses are for?...I ASSUME the fuse would blow first, before doing any damage.

What fuse for the grips? A fuses intended purpose to protect the circuit itself and may or may not completely protect load devices in that circuit.
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_q ... i_n8927954
 
If somebody could come up with a resettable circuit breaker, or a particular resistor, I'm sure everybody would go out at find it. I read through all of your posts, but I'm not smart enough (A.D.D - LOL!!!) to try to undersand or follow all the math you guys are throwing around here! I do know that I would definately modify my grip with this setup if I could make it fool proof. I have on more than one occation accidently turned my grips up or down when I thought it was on the shock setting!
There has to be an easy way to isolate that circuit and protect it or modify the power/amps/watts that it is drawing...
Sorry, I'm probably not much help right now, but I'll ask a few electrical wizards that I know if they can come up with something.
Nate
 
Nate was that you I saw this weekend at Derby line at the yamaha dealer. I was the one with the rtx bs with you about my cold hand lol
 
Got Apex RTX? said:
O.K., I've been doing some thinking on this one and here is what I've come up with.
The 06' grips are ~2.2 Ohms each and wires in series. This means that there is 4.4 Ohms resistance in the circuit. The "new" ones are ~6.8 Ohms per grip. Assuming 12.0 volts D.C. heres the math.

06' (Stock)
Watts= Volts ^2 / Resistance, = 12.0^2 / 4.4 Ohms = 32.7 Watts Total.
Amperage= Watts / Volts, = 32.7W / 12.0 V = 2.73 Amps.

06' (Stock in Parallel)
R(parrallel)= (R1XR2)/(R1+R2), = (2.2X2.2)/(2.2+2.2),= 4.84/4.4= 1.10 Ohms.
Watts= Volts^2 / Resistance, = 12.0^2 / 1.10 Ohms = 130.9 Watts Total.
Amperage= Watts / Volts, = 130.9 W / 12.0 V = 10.9 Amps.

07' (Stock Parallel)
R=(R1XR2)/(R1+R2), = (6.8X6.8)/(6.8+6.8),= 46.24/13.6=3.4 Ohms.
Watts= Volts^2 / Resistance, = 12.0^2 / 3.4 Ohms = 42.35 Watts.
Amperage= Watts / Volts, = 42.35 W / 12.0 V = 3.53 Amps.

So as you can see if you wire your 06' bars in parallel (and set them at max heat) you will be drawing over 10.0 Amps which I believe is what the fuse is rated for. Also you will have over 3 times the wattage to the grips. They will get soft and melt the glue that holds them on. So I would not recomend this practice. Now one thing you could do is add resistors to the circuit to increase the resistance to something close to the "new grips" this will increase you wattage from ~32.0 Watts to ~44.0 Watts. Definently will help however the fact that the element is much smaller and does not include the end will not make them equal in warmth to the "new" ones.

I plan on trying the added resistor method. My sled and a friend of mines Viper. He bought the grips and ends before the heat issue was known. :o| Because of my custom hand gaurd mounts I want to try and keep these bars at least until I bend them. I will let you know how it works out.

Hope this helps

I might try adding a ceramic 2ohm 100watt resistor.
 
Got a set of 06 bars and going to install on my 07 GT. Hope I don't melt the wires or screw anything up. (not that I don't trust you , Dan) :)
 
machzed, you mention wanting them cooler, are they too hot running them at one bar?

Also you said you foamed your bars, did you do the washer trick as well? I am wondering if not foaming them with no washers installed will do the trick?
 
mdkuni said:
machzed, you mention wanting them cooler, are they too hot running them at one bar?

Also you said you foamed your bars, did you do the washer trick as well? I am wondering if not foaming them with no washers installed will do the trick?

Yes i did foam the 06 bars too...and i highly recommend you do NOT foam them as they are very hot..and you do not need to foam them..I also have the HOOKS isolated with elec tape,so i will be removing that....the hooks will get warm as well....if turned up high enough.

guys,dont get to nervous about being too hot...just turn them DOWN!...its not rocket science....you can turn them off too if needed..

a resistor would work well if someone knows how to impliment one...if someone can do it let me know.

you will not overheat anything as far as Ive seen with testing...the grips are the only thing that will get hot..so keep them at middle after first few miles so the glue doesnt soften...as i said mine are fine,no issues even on long lake run on near highest setting...I purpousfully ran them on HI on lake run to see what would happen...no probs.

I have had many PMS from guys who have been running the setup now..and noone has any issues so far...test on guys!

dan
 
OK I started this madness here is how it is done

My Sled 06 GT

06 Handle Bars

SLED

2 plugs

Yellow/Red Wire-------------------------------
Black/Red Wire

Black/Red
Black--------------------------------------------

Hook the yellow/red to your positive side of both hand warmers and the black to the negetive side of both hand warmers. Now its parallel. Leave the black/red on both un hooked.

Warmers get well over 200* on highest setting. Your reostat still works to control the heat but they are hot as hell on 1/2 way.

Hope this help all.

Before you ask I have no idea if this works on the 07 bars or not. This is how my 06Gt is done with stock bars and just the harness made.
 
a7m266d said:
OK I started this madness here is how it is done

My Sled 06 GT

06 Handle Bars

SLED

2 plugs

Yellow/Red Wire-------------------------------
Black/Red Wire

Black/Red
Black--------------------------------------------

Hook the yellow/red to your positive side of both hand warmers and the black to the negetive side of both hand warmers. Now its parallel. Leave the black/red on both un hooked.

Warmers get well over 200* on highest setting. Your reostat still works to control the heat but they are hot as hell on 1/2 way.

Hope this help all.

Before you ask I have no idea if this works on the 07 bars or not. This is how my 06Gt is done with stock bars and just the harness made.

hey thanks..but there is already 7 pages of how to do this...readup!..

dan
 
"Leave the black/red on both un hooked."

How do you leave the black/red on both sides unhooked if they are part of the connector to the main harness?

wire.jpg
 


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