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Wife’s chest too big for these bibs?

The next weekend after Brule we had another warm up and trails were icy and wouldn’t take much traffic to permanently damage them for the season so there were a lot of closures that weekend. We couldn’t ride to the trail from the house so it was time to load up again and head northwest.
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This was the weekend I rebuilt the master on the Viper but it didn’t help. I wanted to switch on and off between the two sleds but this weekend wasn’t a good one for the MTX anyway.
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I also took off the PowerMadd 5-8” adjustable riser in favor of the RSI 10’ fixed.
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They made riding position better for me and can easily switch from sitting to standing.
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March 1rst back up and they finally got some measurable snow again.
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Nick brought up his atv with plow but without chains it was hard to plow with sheets of ice under the snow.
We found some good trails that had maybe a couple sleds go down them and it made for a great playground.
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We found some state land that was untouched and we had a blast for a good 4-5 hrs.
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This would have been a good time to take my MTX. We were the only ones to hit these backwoods paradise trails and we didn’t play all day without digging out. If you don’t get buried, you aren’t trying hard enough. My track was fully extended and tunnel being held up on the snow. Picture doesn’t do justice.
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Nick with his 1” lug track didn’t go without issue either. We went up a hill thru a clearing in trees and had no where to go from there. Nick got stuck trying to turn around.
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That was a fun weekend. We got to stay close to the house so no hotels and we found this new playground that we will be going back to.
Put them away again and headed home.
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March 11th back at it again. More snow came down so we rode from the house again. We made a loop down into Merrill, back north along 51 into south end of Tomahawk then west and north into Tripoli where we needed fuel badly. Ended up at a burnt down BP off hwy 8. We each took a splash off Nicks 3 gallon caddy and somehow made it into Tomahawk to fill up. Trails along roads were bare and muddy and we tried our best to avoid that area but desperate times and all.
Since we were over that way we stopped at Thirsty Giraffe for food.
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Left there feeling bloated and full as always. Highly recommend that place. Ran home the same way we went up.
The next day we rode up thru Parish and stayed east of Rhinelander and into Lake Tomahawk. Stopped at the meat market for some jerky, beef sticks and some great steaks to cook later. Headed northeast to St Germain, ate at 19th hole golf course and then went west into Arbor Vitae and Woodruff. Trails were getting beat up so we went back south and headed for home.
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As we are getting ready to leave for the week, it’s starting to snow. Suppose to get 6-8 too. But we’ll be back.
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The next weekend was the last weekend of the season and I didn’t make it. Nick and my brother went up but I stayed back. I’ve been fighting with plantar fasciitis since September and needed surgery but I said I’m not doing anything until after snowmobile season. I couldn’t put it off any longer, I could barely walk each day and was still going to work.
Had my surgery on 4-24, my daughters 9th birthday of all days. They went in with a camera on one side and tools on the other to cut my tendons to give me some relief. Definitely made a difference and I’m going back to work next week. Still a little sore after resting it like first thing in morning getting out of bed it’s hard to walk on but gets better as day goes on. Hopefully that is behind me now. Spent too much time chillin with the cat.
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Started some off season maintenance on the winder a couple weeks ago. Went up north with my dad and brother not knowing if I would be able to get much done still hobbling around on one good foot.
I pulled the skid out to check the bushings and bearings and also have the rails powder coated and I’ll blast and POR15 the arms and brackets in the skid.
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Also doing the spindles and replacing front a-arms. I bought the 2020+ upper arms with the replacement heim rather than having arms that have to be replaced when ball joint goes south. I know the newer upper only fits the newer spindles so I ordered a stud from Alternative Impact that goes into these spindles and also their heim joint. Their heim joint has 1/2-20 threads which I doubt will fit the new arms but I’ll figure it out and find a correct heim.
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As far as the lowers arms, I ordered 2 lower ball joints from Zbroz and I will make my own arms from chromoly tubing and utilize their replacement joints.
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I also found an exhaust leak. Ordered new v-band clamps and hopefully it seals.
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I pulled the caliper off the MTX because I have a rebuild kit coming. The track is completely loose but I still had to support the driveshaft as to not put any stress on inside case.
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I also pulled the belts and clutches off the Sidewinder, Viper and Nytro. I like to disassemble the clutches during the off season so the springs aren’t under pressure and then I’ll clean, inspect and reassemble them as a preseason maintenance when I do the oils and filters. Yeah, it’s overkill but it doesn’t hurt anything and a piece of mind for me.
 
Skid came home with me and I’ll be sending out my shocks soon as I get them off the Nytro and Viper. Steve will be getting all my shock business, think he’s @cannondale27 here. Definitely a great guy to deal with.

Here you can see why I’m going to tear these down to blast and paint them.
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I picked up lower front shock crossbar from BOP and also the front crossshaft savor from Travis. My only concern is, what happens when the aluminum shaft spins inside the steel support sleeve and you can’t get the bolts out the side of the tunnel? Thinking about drilling and tapping outside metal pipe and installing a set screw to hold aluminum in place. Any thoughts concerns or advise on that?

Installed his heat resistant sleeve over the hose for my rollover valve. The one that was on there was getting beat up. Also gonna sleeve the wiring once I get the O2 sensor wiring done.
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Anyone ever wrap their exhaust pipe connecting manifold to turbo? Thinking about it. I have header wrap and a turbo blanket that I’m thinking using instead of those heat shields.
 
Just looking at the last few posts here, I doubt the exhaust leak is from a faulty clamp. Ive seen this before and typically the leak is from improper installation of the pipe to turbo joint. There is a "step" built into the pipe and typically when leaking like this the step is preventing them from mating properly. The step is holding them up from sealing as its not centered properly. Had a stock Winder in here that couldn't beat a 850 and this was the reason for it.


Regarding header pipe wrap. DONT DO IT! The pipe will be more prone to crack and the flex pipe will fail sooner and break too. I've seen headers melt the tank with header wrap on them and factory shields in place. Take off the wrap and no melting of the tank with the same header! What I see is the header wrap gets hotter and holds the heat longer. I've verified this using a heat gun. Its backwards of what header wrap is supposed to do so I dont get it, but I cant argue about what I've seen first hand. Another thing is the header wrap will fall apart and disintegrate over just a short time.

After I saw the issues with the header wrap I spoke to a top turbo car drag racer and he said they have also seen this happen when they did it many years ago on their turbo cars. Header wrap and turbo blankets are all junk, I don't care what they claim or who makes it, or even if its made from lava, especially if its made from lava! Header wrap is junk on a turbo exhaust. I know a couple guys who had to learn it the hard way.
 
Skid came home with me and I’ll be sending out my shocks soon as I get them off the Nytro and Viper. Steve will be getting all my shock business, think he’s @cannondale27 here. Definitely a great guy to deal with.

Here you can see why I’m going to tear these down to blast and paint them.
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I picked up lower front shock crossbar from BOP and also the front crossshaft savor from Travis. My only concern is, what happens when the aluminum shaft spins inside the steel support sleeve and you can’t get the bolts out the side of the tunnel? Thinking about drilling and tapping outside metal pipe and installing a set screw to hold aluminum in place. Any thoughts concerns or advise on that?

Installed his heat resistant sleeve over the hose for my rollover valve. The one that was on there was getting beat up. Also gonna sleeve the wiring once I get the O2 sensor wiring done.
View attachment 172809

Anyone ever wrap their exhaust pipe connecting manifold to turbo? Thinking about it. I have header wrap and a turbo blanket that I’m thinking using instead of those heat shields.
I just put the BOP lower and upper cross shaft in also. I put the tunnel protector plates on as well where the upper cross shaft mounts. As far as your concerns about the upper shaft sleve with the aluminum underneath spinning , once you install the upper shaft you wont really ever have to remove it unless your changing tracks. I was able to remove mine by working the bolts on each side back and forth once you get them both loose you can take one completely out and the cross shaft will tip down enough to get a plyers on the inner aluminum shaft so you can get the other out. That said, your set screw idea might be a good idea if you have it all apart
 

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Just looking at the last few posts here, I doubt the exhaust leak is from a faulty clamp. Ive seen this before and typically the leak is from improper installation of the pipe to turbo joint. There is a "step" built into the pipe and typically when leaking like this the step is preventing them from mating properly. The step is holding them up from sealing as its not centered properly. Had a stock Winder in here that couldn't beat a 850 and this was the reason for it.


Regarding header pipe wrap. DONT DO IT! The pipe will be more prone to crack and the flex pipe will fail sooner and break too. I've seen headers melt the tank with header wrap on them and factory shields in place. Take off the wrap and no melting of the tank with the same header! What I see is the header wrap gets hotter and holds the heat longer. I've verified this using a heat gun. Its backwards of what header wrap is supposed to do so I dont get it, but I cant argue about what I've seen first hand. Another thing is the header wrap will fall apart and disintegrate over just a short time.

After I saw the issues with the header wrap I spoke to a top turbo car drag racer and he said they have also seen this happen when they did it many years ago on their turbo cars. Header wrap and turbo blankets are all junk, I don't care what they claim or who makes it, or even if its made from lava, especially if its made from lava! Header wrap is junk on a turbo exhaust. I know a couple guys who had to learn it the hard way.
Appreciate the response. Thanks for the first hand advise. Definitely goes against logic and what the heat wrap is designed to do. Based on thermal dynamics wrapping the header and pipe should increase efficiency of the turbo. The heat makes the air move faster but I’m not doubting your experience and will take your advise.
As far as wrap coming apart, it’s suppose to be put on wet, wrapped tight and then sprayed with a thermal coating after it’s completely dry. It’s a process but I have wrapped crossover pipes that were close to transmission and have held up great and didn’t heat soak the trans fluid.
The flex joint on my pipe is still in good shape. I know that’s usually the first section they fail and I inspected that right away thinking I would find something. But that’s good advise and I appreciate you looking out.

Turbo blanket, the way this turbo is mounted I don’t think I could get a blanket on it. My push turbo on my Viper has a blanket and the first one failed after the first ride. I bought a quality T3 blanket and has been on 2 seasons without issue. I had to do something on that Viper though because the kit didn’t come with a heat shield and would have melted the side panel for sure.
This is the one that didn’t last.
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Thank you for taking the time to share your experience and give advise. It didn’t fall on deaf ears and will listen to one’s that say they tried X and Y happened. That’s the type of feedback that we all need.
 
You get more done in one season to that sled than I might get done in 5 years....impressive.
I have a problem, I can’t leave anything alone. I’ll never be done either. I just usually move on to the next thing that catches my interest.
 
I just put the BOP lower and upper cross shaft in also. I put the tunnel protector plates on as well where the upper cross shaft mounts. As far as your concerns about the upper shaft sleve with the aluminum underneath spinning , once you install the upper shaft you wont really ever have to remove it unless your changing tracks. I was able to remove mine by working the bolts on each side back and forth once you get them both loose you can take one completely out and the cross shaft will tip down enough to get a plyers on the inner aluminum shaft so you can get the other out. That said, your set screw idea might be a good idea if you have it all apart
Good stuff. Thanks. I guess it’ll be just like all the other cross shafts that have aluminum pipe inside sleeves, just have to work bolts in and out on both sides until they come out. I just figured since I have this thing out now, I might save myself the headache later by installing a set screw. Think I’ll try it, might be worth it. I’ll report on it.
Tunnel saver plates, yep, have them too. I think I’m gonna get some M10-1.25x 45 flange bolts because the stock ones are only 40mm long. I think with the outside plates I can go a little longer so the bolt is inside the pipe a little farther. Sometimes I overthink things.

I made my own from stainless for my Viper, but this time I just ordered the ones from BOP.
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Thanks for checking this out and chiming in. I hate that these forums don’t have the traffic they used to. Forums are so much more informative and have a better comradely than social media.
 


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