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"Yamaha" Throttle Lever Install on Viper

cannondale27 said:
Got it on. Definitely like the feel. Still a stiff throttle compared to featherweight Phazer but I think the improved ergos will make it easier on hand. I would like to see both wires either 2 in longer for stem mounting or a foot longer for running it way down by other cluster of wires. That said this is a Great idea!

Haven't seen instructions so here goes.
Tools:
Needle nose pliers
10&8mm open end wrenches
T15 Torq driver or cheapo in tool kit
T8 Torq driver or bit
Sidecutter

Push stock lever to bars. Hold cable with needle nose. Remove cable from lever.
Using sidecutter or maybe a screwdriver pry the sheet metal clip off the lever pin. It's a bugger. Normally not reused. Then remove pin and collar.
Remove all 4 T15 screws. You need a screwdriver type or cheapo in kit since bit drivers will not fit in hole. Be sure it's fully seated or you will strip these.
Now it's apart. Look very carefully how all those little wires and plugs are in there so you can put them back same. You will need to remove the white L shaped hold down which has a T8 screw.
Push the tab on plug for stock thumbwarmer and disconnect. It will fit through the slot in housing barely so remove the wire and plug to stock warmer.
I ran the adapter end which plugs into the stock harness into the throttle housing at stem side where all the rest of wires come in. Putting plug right where it was under that white L shaped retainer. Be careful with all these tiny cheap wires and plugs in there. They are very fragile.
Position and screw housing back together using T15.
Install Yamaha Throttle lever. It uses a nice snapring.
ADJUST YOUR THROTTLE FREEPLAY!!!
I did it at the adjuster on stem under the rubber. Use the 8 and 10mm. I use a credit card for a guage with slight pressure on lever card should slide through at closest point between lever and housing.
View attachment 109933
When you route the adapter and warmer wires make sure there is play at throttle since when throttle is pushed it pulls the wire. Here is how I did mine. Notice zip tie goes through tang on plug. Not on the bare wires.
View attachment 109934
Remember the zip tie on cable adjuster is NOT tight. Leave it loose so cable can move.
View attachment 109935
The Phazer pad doesn't cover everything now but still looks better to me than stocker plastic which does still fit and covers it all. Will probably use some electrical tape on the white plug for looks. But here it is.
View attachment 109936
View attachment 109937
THANKS BARN OF PARTS TRAVIS!!
Click to expand...


Thanks for posting up the info. Have pics taken for my install instructions. Just haven't gotten them made up yet.
 

Got mine installed. Way more comfortable! I agree that the leads should be longer to mount the Yammaheater in a more convenient place off the handle bars. I haven't had a chance to adjust the throttle yet, but I did notice that in stock configuration, there is a lot of distance between the throttle and grip at WOT... I'm not sure if I can adjust this out. If I can't, I'm thinking I need to make a stop for the throttle to sit against. I don't like the idea of putting too much pressure on the cable and linkage. I'm wondering if the yamaha bars are shaped differently causing some of the original discomfort.
 
4StrokeAddict said:
Got mine installed. Way more comfortable! I agree that the leads should be longer to mount the Yammaheater in a more convenient place off the handle bars. I haven't had a chance to adjust the throttle yet, but I did notice that in stock configuration, there is a lot of distance between the throttle and grip at WOT... I'm not sure if I can adjust this out. If I can't, I'm thinking I need to make a stop for the throttle to sit against. I don't like the idea of putting too much pressure on the cable and linkage. I'm wondering if the yamaha bars are shaped differently causing some of the original discomfort.
Click to expand...


Can you measure the leads for me? My intention was for the box to be zip tied to the main loom right in front of the riser block. My prototype allowed for this. Even with the box centered in front of riser, the prototype output wires to throttle were too long so I had them shortened a bit so the wires could lay parallel to the wire loom and not have to be looped around to take out slack. These are arriving in small quantities from Rock til we make a larger production run so I can make some changes.

As for you comment on the lever not bottoming out on the lever.....I was able to add slack to my cable so lever bottoms on bar. When doing my trial fit ups I actually checked a bunch of the other sleds in shop and not many of them bottomed on the grip.
 
That is my problem, I don't have the stock riser. I am running an adjustable riser from PowerMadd. I ended up zip ting to the wire harness straddling a zip-tie to the handle bars. I made it work, I'd just rather see it hidden away. As an electrical engineer, I'm more than capable of modifying it. It appears to be a good product so far, but I haven't had a chance to test it yet. My only dislike is the throttle not going all way down...
 
The wires are not long enough to make it to center of stem even with stock Rtx stem. Need 2" as per my comments. As for the throttle touching the bars my Phazer does not either but it will "stretch or bend" till it touches. If this throttle is set to spec it's pretty close if forced. That. Said the Yamaha cable has a barrel end and the cat cable has a ball end. Will it pull through? I wonder if a Nytro cable would work? Might be a better cable anyway since I think that's where some of the harder throttle comes from is stock cable. It never did feel real smooth.
 
4StrokeAddict said:
That is my problem, I don't have the stock riser. I am running an adjustable riser from PowerMadd. I ended up zip ting to the wire harness straddling a zip-tie to the handle bars. I made it work, I'd just rather see it hidden away. As an electrical engineer, I'm more than capable of modifying it. It appears to be a good product so far, but I haven't had a chance to test it yet. My only dislike is the throttle not going all way down...
Click to expand...

When I have hood off I will try but between the adjuster at riser and the one at throttle bodies we should be able to get both proper throttle play and travel to bars under pressure..
 
If I can get all my real work completed, I will play with it more tonight and see what I can accomplish. I'm not sure how the viper is set up, but I'm wondering if its possible to accomplish this task. The issue is the throws are different. There is more travel with the Apex throttle than the Arctic Cat.
 
Travel at throttle bodies is same for sure so I am thinking by moving cable at throttle body then adjusting for play at stem you are changing the cable length. It's close now after just adjusting at stem. Don't see how potential travel at lever can be any different since its same lever. Cable has to be the difference.
 
I didn't get a chance to play with it yesterday and probably won't till the weekend. I will post as soon as i have a chance to look at it closer.
 
Ok, had a bit more time to play with it over the weekend. It appears that the pivot point on the levers are different. This is causing WOT prior to the throttle lever touching the handlebar. I'm guessing that the cam on the throttle body is different between a Viper and Nitro, but this is only a guess at this point. You can adjust the the the cable a bit, but this only introduces slop at idle. Also aiding the problem is the difference in throttle cable ends since the Viper has a ball end where an Apex/Nitro has a barrel end. As a temporary fix, I took a roll of electrical tape and built up a stop behind the lever.

The good news is WOT throttle is still achievable and this throttle is way more comfortable. It's only my perfectionist side that is nitpicking...

Advice welcome!
 
4StrokeAddict said:
Ok, had a bit more time to play with it over the weekend. It appears that the pivot point on the levers are different. This is causing WOT prior to the throttle lever touching the handlebar. I'm guessing that the cam on the throttle body is different between a Viper and Nitro, but this is only a guess at this point. You can adjust the the the cable a bit, but this only introduces slop at idle. Also aiding the problem is the difference in throttle cable ends since the Viper has a ball end where an Apex/Nitro has a barrel end. As a temporary fix, I took a roll of electrical tape and built up a stop behind the lever.

The good news is WOT throttle is still achievable and this throttle is way more comfortable. It's only my perfectionist side that is nitpicking...

Advice welcome!
Click to expand...


We originally had considered supplying a nytro cable with the kit but felt it wasn't really needed. The ball end fits the japan lever with no mods, so we opted to stick with the viper cable. The japan lever is built well enough too that the ball won't pull through. We applied some tensile force far greater than it will see in normal operation to see if the lever would open up and allow ball to pull through.

As a perfectionist....how in the world did you end up with a viper? Ha. They are fun sleds but nowhere near the fit finish and quality of a made in japan yamaha.
 
Still trying to address the comments on the wire length. I fitted one up again and as shown in this picture I can easily center the box the center of the riser and zip tie to the wire loom. I have no problem adding 2" of wire length as suggested, but just want to make sure its needed.
image.jpg
Still
 
I'm not sure its necessary needed, but it may be nice to locate it somewhere out of sight. Mine works just fine. I ran the wire through the throttle box to clean up the wiring harness. Caution, this is a pain in the ARSS due to the double threaded screws. I ended up stripping the allen screw heads and had to cut slots to get them back in...

As a perfectionist....how in the world did you end up with a viper? Ha. They are fun sleds but nowhere near the fit finish and quality of a made in japan yamaha.
Click to expand...
LOL, what do you mean? The viper is perfect from factory... You just need to fix the clutches, fix the throttle, fix the shock valving, fix the lack of storage, fix the thumb heater, fix the starting issues (still waiting Yamaha and Arctic Cat, I blame both of you...), fix the Trihub, fix all the forgotten hose clamps and add accessories. See, its a great sled.

I was forced this way since Yamaha can't figure out a modern chassis to save their lives. I have a bad back and needed a good seating position over anything else. The viper has a wonderful seating position. In all seriousness, it's not a bad sled and I'm overall happy with my purchase. I am disappointing with the lack of fit and finish compared to my other Yamahas. I knew I was going to have some issues with this prior to buying, though I'm having more than expected... But its a medical decision for me and this was the most comfortable sled I found as far as riding position goes. It already is the best handling sled I've ever been on and once re-valved, it should be among the best riding as well.
 
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