Still trying to address the comments on the wire length. I fitted one up again and as shown in this picture I can easily center the box the center of the riser and zip tie to the wire loom. I have no problem adding 2" of wire length as suggested, but just want to make sure its needed.
View attachment 110258 Still
Well maybe mountain bars are narrower? Or housing is positioned further in. I also see you left the tiny little plug to stock thumbwarmer outside the housing. I would not want that since those tiny plugs and wires are too fragile. In this case longer is definitely better. Like said 2 inches min or 12 and then the box can be totally out of sight.
Ok, had a bit more time to play with it over the weekend. It appears that the pivot point on the levers are different. This is causing WOT prior to the throttle lever touching the handlebar. I'm guessing that the cam on the throttle body is different between a Viper and Nitro, but this is only a guess at this point. You can adjust the the the cable a bit, but this only introduces slop at idle. Also aiding the problem is the difference in throttle cable ends since the Viper has a ball end where an Apex/Nitro has a barrel end. As a temporary fix, I took a roll of electrical tape and built up a stop behind the lever.
The good news is WOT throttle is still achievable and this throttle is way more comfortable. It's only my perfectionist side that is nitpicking...
Advice welcome!
Did you try a combination of adjusting at stem and throttlebody? By doing both you would be changing the distance from end of cable to end of housing. This is the same as changing the cable end position at lever. So it should work.
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Can't speak for the bars, but the stock plug does fit inside the throttle/switch box. I ran the wires through it to minimize clutter and keep it clean looking. It is a tight fit, but it does fit. Just take note of my caution two posts back if you decide to break into the switch box...
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Did you try a combination of adjusting at stem and throttlebody? By doing both you would be changing the distance from end of cable to end of housing. This is the same as changing the cable end position at lever. So it should work.
Unless I'm mistaken, adjusting the cable at the throttle body introduces slop at idle. Readjusting at the handlebars just takes that slop back out. The problem is the distance the throttle is moving at both the handlebars and throttle body. The cable end needs to move closer to the pivot point at the handle bars....
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Just took a look on Babbits and couldn't find the throttle body parts breakout... I'm still curious if the Nitro uses the same throttle cam as the viper.
No. The length of exposed cable will be changed when adjusted at throttle body and stem at same time. This is same as moving the cable pocket at the lever. Try it. Hope fully is enough to get what we want. I would but mine is still in trailer for a few more weeks.Unless I'm mistaken, adjusting the cable at the throttle body introduces slop at idle. Readjusting at the handlebars just takes that slop back out. The problem is the distance the throttle is moving at both the handlebars and throttle body. The cable end needs to move closer to the pivot point at the handle bars....
L
looks same visually. Would be nice to have some options there also.Just took a look on Babbits and couldn't find the throttle body parts breakout... I'm still curious if the Nitro uses the same throttle cam as the viper.
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But I think that's the problem. I don't want to lengthen the cable as that would only introduce slop. Adjusting one at a time introduces that slop according to trying it over the weekend. The potential movement on the throttle is greater than the maximum movement on the throttle body. Perhaps I'm thinking about it wrong... Mine is back in the trailer until after the Novi Snow Show as well. I'll play with it more then.No. The length of exposed cable will be changed when adjusted at throttle body and stem at same time. This is same as moving the cable pocket at the lever. Try it. Hope fully is enough to get what we want. I would but mine is still in trailer for a few more weeks.
Of course. Since the pocket on Yamaha lever is further away from cable housing I believe the cable housing will have to be moved up or out at throttlebody this will allow you to adjust at stem inward to get the SAME play as stock. In the end the cable housing will be shorter.But I think that's the problem. I don't want to lengthen the cable as that would only introduce slop. Adjusting one at a time introduces that slop according to trying it over the weekend. The potential movement on the throttle is greater than the maximum movement on the throttle body. Perhaps I'm thinking about it wrong... Mine is back in the trailer until after the Novi Snow Show as well. I'll play with it more then.
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Thats how i did mind ! At WOT its 3/8 inches away from the handlebars ,just hope the cable will not stretch too much and broke.... Happy customer, maymbe a litle bit longer wire betwen the ac switch and magic litle box
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Looks good, and should feel even better! If you increase the cable slack it would allow for the lever to bottom out on the grip. As stated in another post some other yamaha sleds here in the shop did not hit the grip when at WOT. Every install is most likely going to yield slightly different results on the lever to grip distance at full throttle.
I am going to increase wire length a bit for those that choose to install the connection back inside the switch. Beings its such a tight fit I had not intended for the plug to be put back in the switch. If the harness is zip tied to the main loom there would be no stress on the connector and leads. With increased wire length it will allow buyers to route it either way and center the box around the riser.
Currently we are sold out of the kits, and awaiting more harness adapters from Rock. Will keep everyone posted on their intended arrival.
I am going to increase wire length a bit for those that choose to install the connection back inside the switch. Beings its such a tight fit I had not intended for the plug to be put back in the switch. If the harness is zip tied to the main loom there would be no stress on the connector and leads. With increased wire length it will allow buyers to route it either way and center the box around the riser.
Currently we are sold out of the kits, and awaiting more harness adapters from Rock. Will keep everyone posted on their intended arrival.
OK I tried every adjustment possible both at riser and throttlebody and there is no way to get proper adjustment with this lever either play is correct or it touches handlebars. No way to get both. So that and the short wires I will probably be taking it off. Sorry just cant recommend this.
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LM7800
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always hated viper throttle, I'd love to get this kit after the bugs get worked out!
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Well that sucks. I have one sitting in the box stillOK I tried every adjustment possible both at riser and throttlebody and there is no way to get proper adjustment with this lever either play is correct or it touches handlebars. No way to get both. So that and the short wires I will probably be taking it off. Sorry just cant recommend this.
Is what it is. I might try putting something under the lever so it can bottom on bar. But if I rip that cable out on a ride I would be very ticked. Seems likely and having a ton of throttleplay is not the answer.
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