"Yamaha" Throttle Lever Install on Viper

[hibshman25]

OK I tried every adjustment possible both at riser and throttlebody and there is no way to get proper adjustment with this lever either play is correct or it touches handlebars. No way to get both. So that and the short wires I will probably be taking it off. Sorry just cant recommend this.
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If you are not content you are welcome to send it back for a refund. The wire length has been updated so I could also exchange yours for another one with longer leads.

I have my viper set with a bit of extra slack so the lever bottoms out on the grip. Having extra slack has not caused any issues during test runs we have made. If Japan lever didn't allow enough slack then there could be an issue with TORS activating, but that's not the case.

The Japan lever will function and work as it is, but in pursuit of perfection I will explore options of havering a shim plate installed on the throttle block or lever. If a shim is installed then we can get the free play gap within Yamaha spec of .75-1.5mm.

 

[cannondale27]

That would be great and what I was hoping to hear. It will be in mail this week. Thanks for doing it right.

 

[4StrokeAddict]

I'm with you and cannot get it to adjust. I ended up using a roll of electrical tape to create a stop. I'd also like to see a shim.

 

[cannondale27]

Stock lever doesn't go all the way to bars either

Yes it does if you push hard enough. This something will break before it hits bars. If your stock one doesnt then you dont have it adjusted correctly.

 

[swampcat]

Stock lever doesn't go all the way to bars either

MY 2016 does. One of the first things to check on a new sled. WFO makes it GO.

 

[cannondale27]

Well thats great for you. Now push or squeeze it right tight to the bars and see what happens because if you are wide open and hit a bump that is exactly what will happen.

 

[cannondale27]

So how much play do you have when its let go? Supposed to be about creditcard thickness.

 

[cannondale27]

Maybe yours is special. Heck I know how to adjust a throttle. Jeeze!

 

[cannondale27]

What are you doing taking pictures at different adjustments? Starting to tick me off.

 

[cannondale27]

Glad you are happy. There is a spec for play its .75-1.5mm or .030-.060in. I like it to the tight side if you dont thats just wonderful but its not in spec.

 

[hibshman25]

This morning I put my stock viper lever back on the sled. When throttle is fully closed the (2) little nubs on the lever generate a gap of approximately 3mm between the lever and throttle block. I stacked feeler gauge shims up to create a 4.5 mm thickness, which would yield a 1.5mm free play. I adjusted cable for the maximum yamaha spec'd 1.5mm free play and my stock viper lever does not bottom out on the grip. In order to get my lever to bottom on the grip I have to run more free play than yamaha specs.

I then started checking some apex, nytro and phazers I had in shop. Many of these sleds also do not bottom on the grip when set to the maximum spec'd free play either. If the lever not bottoming out on the grip was a major issue I'd think my cable sales would be high, but they are not. I have piles of good used throttle cables. The only throttle cables I sell are longer ones for guys putting taller risers on.

While I understand the logic of having the lever bottom out on the grip, I don't think this is something to loose sleep over based on my findings above. Bottom line is this: If you want the lever to bottom out just increase your free play. When I post up my final installation instructions for the kit this is going to be my suggestion, as extra tensile stress on cable should be avoided if possible. There will be no issues with TORS if running extra free play. TORS issues only arise if free play is too little.

If anyone buys this product and they are not happy with it I will gladly offer a refund if you send it back. I operate this way on any used or new part I sell. What suits one guy isn't always going to suit the next guy.

 

[hibshman25]

Glad you are happy. There is a spec for play its .75-1.5mm or .030-.060in. I like it to the tight side if you dont thats just wonderful but its not in spec.

By the way....you have way too many mods on your sled to be concerned about it all being in accordance to Yamaha spec. Ha .

If you can find a throttle stop that suits you, I will exchange your adapter box for one with the longer leads. Just keep me posted.

 

[cannondale27]

By the way....you have way too many mods on your sled to be concerned about it all being in accordance to Yamaha spec. Ha .

If you can find a throttle stop that suits you, I will exchange your adapter box for one with the longer leads. Just keep me posted.

Reason the throttle not bottoming bothers me is this cable has a small ball on end. The Yamaha lever is designed for a barrel end which is much bigger. I am afraid of pulling the ball right through. I took lever off and put a blob of black silicone at the tip of it underneath. I think it will work.

 

[staggs65]

I agree the max free play spec probably isn't that important. On my carb sleds I always set the cables by sticking a finger in the carb and adjusting until the slide is flush with top of carb bore at full throttle. This is always way more free play than called for and no TORS issues. What I would like though is to exchange mine for the longer lead. I'll check it next time I'm home but I think I want it longer

 

[cannondale27]

I will admit maybe its just me. Nothing I own has excess throttle play. I have always set sled throttles with a credit card which gives you exactly .75mm which is the minimum spec. My Cat lever does hit the bars at that spec I just tried it. Having excess play is kind of like telling someone who rides different than you that they are doing it all wrong even though that is what they are comfortable with. Maybe I am just to old to change!