ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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DaveyBoy said:well i bit the bullet and jusy ordered the yamaheater Id want cold hands when riding
Question I have the 06 Apexgt with hooks and no heater on hooks will this heat the hooks??
NO
you need 07 bars
dan
WarriorPilot
Veteran
No, there is no element on the hook
DaveyBoy
TY 4 Stroke Guru
So if i bought the yamaha udated bars for $30.00 would they be the updated bars??? Thanks
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
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DaveyBoy said:So if i bought the yamaha udated bars for $30.00 would they be the updated bars??? Thanks
Hi Dave!
Yes, they are.
The heated hooks are great!
You will like them.
Rock
DaveyBoy
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Thanks Rock cant wait been using gauntlets and big heavy gloves I hope i can go back to Gauntlets and mechanics wear gloves
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
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You are welcome Dave!
With Gauntlets and a YamaHeater, you should have a small bakery going! lol
Rock : )
With Gauntlets and a YamaHeater, you should have a small bakery going! lol
Rock : )
DaveyBoy
TY 4 Stroke Guru
swapped to the 07 bars and I actually felt heat for the first time werent great but better than the 06 bars.IDK if i will have the yamaheater today to iunstalll leaving tonight for a few days hope they work goodenough but i gues after 3 years with out any i will be ok lol
Budweiser
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
It does work. Here's a perfect example. Stopping by side of trail, gloves off. By the time I put them on, they are cold and the sweat is starting to freeze up a little. I crank up the Yamaheater and 5 minutes later my hands are warm and I'm turning it back to stock controls.
This is where I really noticed it working. I was skeptical at first but I think it was a great buy for me..
This is where I really noticed it working. I was skeptical at first but I think it was a great buy for me..
SIMMER
TY 4 Stroke Master
Hey Rock, you have a PM.
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
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Reply sent SIMMER.
Rockmeister
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Jimo posted this in another thread, was a good question!
Figured may of you guys may have had the same question and would like the info.
Hi Jimo!
Lol @ the alarm bells, it is good you think about the stuff!
Some info about Current, Wires, Ampacity, Fuses etc may help a bit.
Some general background:
WIRE & AMPACITY:
The Ampacity of a wire (Current it can safely carry) is determined by many factors, the main ones being:
1) Type of material the conductor is made of. (Conductance, or inversely the internal resistance)
2) The diameter of the wire. (Size or gauge)
3) The type of insulation used to cover the wire. (Temperature rating.)
4) The installation conditions of the wire. (Is it in a chase, bundle, free air, etc?)
5) Ambient temperature the wire is used in.
There are more factors, but these are the main ones we are concerned with.
All these factors will increase or decrease(derate) the Ampacity of the wire.
As a wire carries more & more current, it gets warmer(or hotter) due to the internal resistance of the wire.
The real limiting factor of how much current any one wire can carry (before it burns in half anyway) is the temperature rating of the wire.
The temperature rating of the wire is actually the temperature rating of the Insulation.
The higher the temperature rating, the more current the same size wire can safely carry before burning or melting the insulation.
Fortunately the factory used pretty good wire in our sleds with a reasonably high temperature rating.
Most of the wires in our sleds are capable of 20A maximum, due to their good ratings.
FUSES & PROTECTION:
A fuse is a current limiting device used to lower the risk of fire/damage by protecting the circuit, & mainly wiring, against shorts & other overloads.
A fuse does a very poor job of protecting electronics as most any electronics will fail much faster than a fuse can blow (open).
For this reason, fuses are almost never used to protect electronics except to protect against overloads caused by shorts.
A fuses current rating is a general rating, It is NOT an absolute rating.
Meaning a 15A fuse operated at 13 or 14A for a few hours WILL most likely blow.
At the same time, you may be able to use a 15A fuse at 25A for a few seconds and it may not blow.
Fuses have a tolerance like anything else, the general range they work in is their amp rating.
For this reason, Fuses are generally spec-ed to be only loaded up to 75 to 80% of their Amp rating under normal conditions, otherwise the fuse will blow after a while, even though the circuit is operating perfectly fine.
This is called nuisance blowing, or tripping in circuit breakers.
This means that a 15A fuse should only be used in a circuit with 11.25 to 12A Maximum normal load current.
The current used in the circuit you mentioned above is MUCH lower than 3A, less than 1 A actually.
The problem any factory has, is that smaller fuses are very failure prone, they are easily blown by static electricity.
That is why most manufacturers rarely use smaller fuses.
There are many different models of sleds and the SIG fuse on them vary from 3A to 10A.
To insure that the Grip Warmers always work, while still protecting the circuit, we use a 15A fuse to replace the factory fuse.
If we used a 10A or lower, the fuse would eventually fail in many cases even though the circuit is operating perfectly & with-in safe limits.
If you used say a 30A fuse, it may not protect the wiring when it was most needed, for example; if it had a short in the wiring.
The fuse in any electrical application is selected to allow proper & safe operation of the circuit while protecting against overloads & other operation beyond safe parameters.
Hope this helps!
Rock
You guys keep asking questions & you will end up knowing more about electricity than you ever thought you would! (Or maybe wanted to! lol)
Figured may of you guys may have had the same question and would like the info.
jimo368 said:Ever since I bought a Vector last year with grips that dont work, I have been following this thread with great interest. So far, I am still sitting on the fence and trying to decide which way to go. I am sure the Yamaheaters work as advertised and have many satisfied customers, but when I see a 3 amp fuse being replaced with a 15 ampere unit, alarm bells go off and I really wonder about long term reliability. In the mean time I will be carrying a big pair of mitts for when the temp drops and see how this pans out.
Hi Jimo!
Lol @ the alarm bells, it is good you think about the stuff!
Some info about Current, Wires, Ampacity, Fuses etc may help a bit.
Some general background:
WIRE & AMPACITY:
The Ampacity of a wire (Current it can safely carry) is determined by many factors, the main ones being:
1) Type of material the conductor is made of. (Conductance, or inversely the internal resistance)
2) The diameter of the wire. (Size or gauge)
3) The type of insulation used to cover the wire. (Temperature rating.)
4) The installation conditions of the wire. (Is it in a chase, bundle, free air, etc?)
5) Ambient temperature the wire is used in.
There are more factors, but these are the main ones we are concerned with.
All these factors will increase or decrease(derate) the Ampacity of the wire.
As a wire carries more & more current, it gets warmer(or hotter) due to the internal resistance of the wire.
The real limiting factor of how much current any one wire can carry (before it burns in half anyway) is the temperature rating of the wire.
The temperature rating of the wire is actually the temperature rating of the Insulation.
The higher the temperature rating, the more current the same size wire can safely carry before burning or melting the insulation.
Fortunately the factory used pretty good wire in our sleds with a reasonably high temperature rating.
Most of the wires in our sleds are capable of 20A maximum, due to their good ratings.
FUSES & PROTECTION:
A fuse is a current limiting device used to lower the risk of fire/damage by protecting the circuit, & mainly wiring, against shorts & other overloads.
A fuse does a very poor job of protecting electronics as most any electronics will fail much faster than a fuse can blow (open).
For this reason, fuses are almost never used to protect electronics except to protect against overloads caused by shorts.
A fuses current rating is a general rating, It is NOT an absolute rating.
Meaning a 15A fuse operated at 13 or 14A for a few hours WILL most likely blow.
At the same time, you may be able to use a 15A fuse at 25A for a few seconds and it may not blow.
Fuses have a tolerance like anything else, the general range they work in is their amp rating.
For this reason, Fuses are generally spec-ed to be only loaded up to 75 to 80% of their Amp rating under normal conditions, otherwise the fuse will blow after a while, even though the circuit is operating perfectly fine.
This is called nuisance blowing, or tripping in circuit breakers.
This means that a 15A fuse should only be used in a circuit with 11.25 to 12A Maximum normal load current.
The current used in the circuit you mentioned above is MUCH lower than 3A, less than 1 A actually.
The problem any factory has, is that smaller fuses are very failure prone, they are easily blown by static electricity.
That is why most manufacturers rarely use smaller fuses.
There are many different models of sleds and the SIG fuse on them vary from 3A to 10A.
To insure that the Grip Warmers always work, while still protecting the circuit, we use a 15A fuse to replace the factory fuse.
If we used a 10A or lower, the fuse would eventually fail in many cases even though the circuit is operating perfectly & with-in safe limits.
If you used say a 30A fuse, it may not protect the wiring when it was most needed, for example; if it had a short in the wiring.
The fuse in any electrical application is selected to allow proper & safe operation of the circuit while protecting against overloads & other operation beyond safe parameters.
Hope this helps!
Rock
You guys keep asking questions & you will end up knowing more about electricity than you ever thought you would! (Or maybe wanted to! lol)
SIKEWARD
Expert
apex and nytro
Just a quick little test i did. 60 degree room temp. Used a snap on infarred temp gun. Apex before mod at idle for 10 min. Handle bars were 78 degrees. After mod and with in 7min handle bars were 138 degree.
I bought my 2nd yamaheater for a 06 apex gt. The install was just a tad different than my Nytro. I was somewhat confused about where the 2nd orange wire went. I emailed Rock late the night before my trip. I eventually figured it out that evening on my own. I emailed Rock back and let him know I figured out the wiring. But the very next day as I was driving north Rock called me and asked if I had figured everything out ok. Now that is customer service. Thanks.
Just a quick little test i did. 60 degree room temp. Used a snap on infarred temp gun. Apex before mod at idle for 10 min. Handle bars were 78 degrees. After mod and with in 7min handle bars were 138 degree.
I bought my 2nd yamaheater for a 06 apex gt. The install was just a tad different than my Nytro. I was somewhat confused about where the 2nd orange wire went. I emailed Rock late the night before my trip. I eventually figured it out that evening on my own. I emailed Rock back and let him know I figured out the wiring. But the very next day as I was driving north Rock called me and asked if I had figured everything out ok. Now that is customer service. Thanks.
hossZ28
Still has a yamaha powerplant!
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Hi Rock I finally got around to installing my warm hands controller went pretty straightforward and simple fired up the sled and had a code 81 went onto TY for your index and trouble shooting found my grips were wired in series rewired them to parallel all is good when the warm hands controller is working all I can say is WOW you could cook bacon on those bad boys and also I dont know if it is just me the normal grip warmers work 300% better until I installed your product I was on the fence on going to the dark side in Valcourt because this was a relationship killer with my Nytro If any of you have doubts PM me I do not work for Rock or totally yamaha or affliated in any way just a consumer who is rarely sold something that does more than what it promises Thanks Rock
Hi Rock I finally got around to installing my warm hands controller went pretty straightforward and simple fired up the sled and had a code 81 went onto TY for your index and trouble shooting found my grips were wired in series rewired them to parallel all is good when the warm hands controller is working all I can say is WOW you could cook bacon on those bad boys and also I dont know if it is just me the normal grip warmers work 300% better until I installed your product I was on the fence on going to the dark side in Valcourt because this was a relationship killer with my Nytro If any of you have doubts PM me I do not work for Rock or totally yamaha or affliated in any way just a consumer who is rarely sold something that does more than what it promises Thanks Rock
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
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Am really glad you guys like!
Not all of them work out that well, yet the vast majority do.
Have a few I am working on right now that still don't get quite warm enough, but we will get there.
It's all about having Warm Hands and not risking frostbite.
Thanks for the feedback guys!
Not all of them work out that well, yet the vast majority do.
Have a few I am working on right now that still don't get quite warm enough, but we will get there.
It's all about having Warm Hands and not risking frostbite.
Thanks for the feedback guys!
newyorker_79
Extreme
Finally gave in, and ordered. Look forward to warm hands.
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