Seeing this wear to varing degrees on Vipers. The older ones have wobble bearing and all have 14 wide chain vs Sidewinder with 15 Wide and no wobblebearing. Just trying to determine if should update bearing to the non wobblebearing or if its something else like 1.5 turns loose from finger tight is too loose. Thanks Guys!
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/chaincase-wear.149868/
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/chaincase-wear.149868/
HURRICANE
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The chain will be a lot stronger when adjusted finger tight. I think that the chain will develop a wave motion under load causing the mark
Thanks. I agree but all are adjusting 1.5 turns out from finger tight. Per specs. Sure looks like that's too loose but surely damage also can be done if too tight. Spec for years was finger tight and 1/4 turn out. I know that is too tight since will whine on decal at least on Viper with wobblebearing and 14 wide. You are saying you guys go finger tight and don't back it off at all? If so and can get away with it would be awesome. Thanks for reply!The chain will be a lot stronger when adjusted finger tight. I think that the chain will develop a wave motion under load causing the mark
hellflyer
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I tightened mine to Daves recommendation but a 1/4turn from finger tight and with 4500km on the sled it doesn't appear to have any wear with turbo.
hellflyer
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Wondered if the back lash shock from on and off throttle could cause accelerated wear.
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We use a 7/8 hyvo chain in the outlaw sleds. If we don’t put tension on the chain when we adjust it,we will break either the chain or the shaft every pass. With tension on the chain, we almost never see a failure.saying that, I don’t think that tension is realistic on a 200-300hp trail sled but I don’t think that slick is durable
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This is the chain case on my 17 Winder---330 miles
Chain hit already! Thanks Stain.![]()
This is the chain case on my 17 Winder---330 miles
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Seeing this wear to varing degrees on Vipers. The older ones have wobble bearing and all have 14 wide chain vs Sidewinder with 17 Wide and no wobblebearing. Just trying to determine if should update bearing to the non wobblebearing or if its something else like 1.5 turns loose from finger tight is too loose. Thanks Guys!
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/chaincase-wear.149868/
View attachment 132214
I did see that yesterday in the Viper section. My first thoughts were smaller diameter top and bottom gears on the Viper if compared to the Sidewinder may have allowed chain to rub during de acceleration.
But after a bit of research, (not so).
After others chimed in on this thread it seems like it is worth looking at during this seasons pre maintenance, and run the chain a bit tighter then what the book states.
What is that wobble bearing? Have heard about that being a problem on past Cats, did not realize it was passed onto the Viper.
Thanks for the heads up!
KnappAttack
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Why the need to back off 1.5 turns from finger tight?
Does something wear out if you left it finger tight? Where does the problem lie?
Does something wear out if you left it finger tight? Where does the problem lie?
Wobble bearing was in all till 2017. Its Chaincase side jackshaft bearing that allowed Jackshaft or chassis to move. Was unreliable as heck with cats and tcl but got much better every year till they abandoned it finally.I did see that yesterday in the Viper section. My first thoughts were smaller diameter top and bottom gears on the Viper if compared to the Sidewinder may have allowed chain to rub during de acceleration.
But after a bit of research, (not so).
After others chimed in on this thread it seems like it is worth looking at during this seasons pre maintenance, and run the chain a bit tighter then what the book states.
What is that wobble bearing? Have heard about that being a problem on past Cats, did not realize it was passed onto the Viper.
Thanks for the heads up!
Pretty sure that nub being worn contains one of the inner chaincase mounting screws. Yup chain is whipping. Gonna go against specs myself and 1/2-1 turn out.
Because that's what manual says and if finger tight and 1/4 turn out like we used to do the chain whines. I don't know if adjuster will hold up to tight and then add chassis and chaincase flex into it when trail or off trail riding its a gamble but specs obviously don't work.Why the need to back off 1.5 turns from finger tight?
Does something wear out if you left it finger tight? Where does the problem lie?
KnappAttack
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Because that's what manual says and if finger tight and 1/4 turn out like we used to do the chain whines. I don't know if adjuster will hold up to tight and then add chassis and chaincase flex into it when trail or off trail riding its a gamble but specs obviously don't work.
So just a whining chain is the only problem. Sounds like its just loud then as it goes over the roller. Ski Doo runs an arched pad on the tensioner and we run those finger tight without noise. May need to look at just installing Doos arched pad to Cats tensioner.
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Wobble bearing was in all till 2017. Its Chaincase side jackshaft bearing that allowed Jackshaft or chassis to move. Was unreliable as heck with cats and tcl but got much better every year till they abandoned it finally.
Pretty sure that nub being worn contains one of the inner chaincase mounting screws. Yup chain is whipping. Gonna go against specs myself and 1/2-1 turn out.
So part of the old premise behind that wobble bearing design must have been some sort of self alignment gone bad.
Not sure but I know my SRX,Phazer and Nytro and other Yamahas all whined when chain was too tight. Doo has a much shorter chain right? I don't know but the whine once heard is very noticeable. Don't forget our chaincases are very fragile not to mention bearings.So just a whining chain is the only problem. Sounds like its just loud then as it goes over the roller. Ski Doo runs an arched pad on the tensioner and we run those finger tight without noise. May need to look at just installing Doos arched pad to Cats tensioner.
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