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You need to see this!!!

Wonder if tighter bearing fit has anything to do with why it's quieter?

Lakercr did the same thing and went to the tighter clearance bearing at the same time, he thought it was the bearing that had changed things and quieted the clutch, but I tested the bearing on a stock shaft and it did nothing for noise, so the difference is the spline tightness then in the 1049 shaft, but didn't the Nytro also rattle the clutch? As far as I can remember all the three cylinders rattled the primary badly. Oh well, glad it's working for you. Funny Yamaha couldn't figure this out....
 

"Timken (Japan) normal" I assume is bearing. Factory bearing has C3 fit due to press fit and high heat. Wonder if tighter bearing fit has anything to do with why it's quieter?
Well....KnappAttack tried the (KML) bearing suggested. And KnappAttack's comment was it didn't help. My bearing got pulled from Amazon, I'm not even sure its a True Timkin. Haha, food for thought, eh? I'd stick with the shaft being of a tighter tolerance, as other claims.
To be 100% honest , I was going to pull my old bearing out of my old housing and use that, but if it didn't work, I'd be playing way too many games of "hide the sausage"
In the end....its just clutch noise?!?! Its not the cure for cancer.
Turboflash, Imagine me Actually following someone's advice. Haha.
Let's be honest, I didn't fully trust him. And that is primarily why I kept my snub shaft, etc. Intact
 
Well....KnappAttack tried the (KML) bearing suggested. And KnappAttack's comment was it didn't help. My bearing got pulled from Amazon, I'm not even sure its a True Timkin. Haha, food for thought, eh? I'd stick with the shaft being of a tighter tolerance, as other claims.
To be 100% honest , I was going to pull my old bearing out of my old housing and use that, but if it didn't work, I'd be playing way too many games of "hide the sausage"
In the end....its just clutch noise?!?! Its not the cure for cancer.
Turboflash, Imagine me Actually following someone's advice. Haha.
Let's be honest, I didn't fully trust him. And that is primarily why I kept my snub shaft, etc. Intact
LOL. Yeah, you're not famous for following advice! :)
 
Screenshot_20240129-110532.png

I'm sorry bud. Perhaps I grew up on the wrong side of town. Lol. besides, I've read most of the groups theories and experiences including yours from back in the day. Never could fix it with simple bearing change. That coupled with Tapp targeting the splines, as a possible fix, it became a no-brainer.
 
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Clearing the air...C3 is considered "normal"
So the bearing I used was to spec. No different than the factory clearance.
Screenshot_20240129-124356.png
 
Yes, normal extra clearance.
Yes, spec'd exactly as the factory bearing C3 rating "normal" clearance.
I read up on this yesterday. The C-Class bearing has five variants to it, with C3 being a "normal" clearance bearing, or the most common. C4 and 5 are extra clearance bearings and C 1 and 2 are tighter clearance bearings.
 
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Nitro shaft with factory original bearing (4200 miles)
I did this mostly to prove to myself, the nitro snub shaft to be quieter then the factory shaft.
Please note; I'm posting this for people who want to fix the problem not to the people who want to ridicule everything they've never tried.

 
Simplespeed, all these years and it never bothered me. Then the magical silent seal thingamabob came out. I'll say, for $80 it peaked my curiosity, only to be a bust and completely disappointed. Especially after it worked for the first 5 10 minutes.
Another member must have heard my cries and sent me a PM on how to fix the clutch noise, and I bit on it.
Seems as though the fix has met with skepticism by a few members. And I thought it best to put the old bearing & nitro shaft in there and let the chips fall where they may.
I need to get some hard miles on it to verify it 100%.
Predictions on an early cold & wet season has me getting everything ready, sooner than the norm.
 
Simplespeed, all these years and it never bothered me. Then the magical silent seal thingamabob came out. I'll say, for $80 it peaked my curiosity, only to be a bust and completely disappointed. Especially after it worked for the first 5 10 minutes.
Another member must have heard my cries and sent me a PM on how to fix the clutch noise, and I bit on it.
Seems as though the fix has met with skepticism by a few members. And I thought it best to put the old bearing & nitro shaft in there and let the chips fall where they may.
I need to get some hard miles on it to verify it 100%.
Predictions on an early cold & wet season has me getting everything ready, sooner than the norm.
Ya I hear you on a product that turns out to be a bust …. That’s disappointing… I was just making light of this condition as I have on many other design flaws realizing we don’t live in that perfect world …
 
I'm convinced Yamaha knew how to fix the rattle but intentionally wanted some play in the stub shaft fit. I suspect it helps dissipate some torque spike or something like that. But I'm probably giving them too much credit. Could be they made too many in the first batch and didn't want to take the scrap.
 
I'm convinced Yamaha knew how to fix the rattle but intentionally wanted some play in the stub shaft fit. I suspect it helps dissipate some torque spike or something like that. But I'm probably giving them too much credit. Could be they made too many in the first batch and didn't want to take the scrap.
Thought you were in jail?!?! Anyway, IDK?? Not sure if the harmonics/distortion are good for the clutches. Must be a reason Tapp tried to offer an inexpensive cure. I'll roll with it and see how things go.
 


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