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ZX-2 performance review - bolt torking procedures


Here's my final comments on the ZX-2.

What I have found is, if you are not beating the hell out of it, it does not perform at the top. And when you really give it all you got it will bottom out if you do not bump up the spring preload, then the lack of rebound dampening makes the kick back from the suspension even worse.

I have come to the conclusion that:

1. The shocks are too firm on compression dampening, making a comfy ride impossible no matter the spring setting.
2. The springs are too strong, even at lower spring preload settings the skid does not bottom out, but still rides stiff.
3. The lack of rebound dampening in the shocks. I find myself standing up halfway a lot of the time riding in the rough stuff to prevent getting kicked in the back. Very tireing on my knees.
4. The lack of adjustability on the fly on the compression and rebound dampening. The ZX-2 skid is in need of some real shocks with on trail adjustability on both compression and rebound dampening.

In spite of what I said above, the ZX-2 skid is a huge step forward over the Proaction suspension it did replace in my sled. It only needs some more fine tuning on the shocks and spring combo.


Jan-Ove Pedersen
rxrider
 
RXrider, I found the same conclusion on the expert-x, years ago when I did 2 season of testing. I know Aaron at Excell can tune and rebuild those shocks to work if you want to make more of an investment.
 
What settings do you have on the revolver plate? The reason I ask is that the last time I swapped the pin positions and instead of putting the pins @ #2 & 5, I put them in #2 & 3, it felt like the suspension was softer (the sled actually sunk down when sat upon), but at the expense of increased ski lift. Perhaps try switching the pins to these positions and pulling up the limiter strap might bring the skis back down and give the ride you're looking for?
 
I guess I jsut dont have any of those problems with the shocks, at first it sucked but after 1000 miles it did actually loosen up and now rides great. IN teh small stutter bumps I do get the rear bouncing just a little but its still soft and would never buck me off. When its time for a re-build on the shocks I will maybe add a touch more rebound but i wish I could ride this thing year round, it was bar none the most fun I have had on a sled this year and it was because of the Zx2 (even though I did a lot of stuff at once you can still tell).

LOVE IT LOVE IT LOVE IT
 
Don't get me wrong, I love my ZX-2 too and I'm not trying to bash it in any way. I'm just pointing out what needs to be done to my ZX-2 in my sled to make it ride the way I want it to.

LOVE IT-LOVE IT-LOVE IT TOO

I have put up my '03 RX-1 Turbo for sale to be able to build my next dream machine :)
 
Me I want stiffer springs because I'm running on 7 and I want firmer valving on slow bottom outs in the bottom of gullys and g outs. In other words my slow valving is not firm enough.

I love the skid and do not regret buying it. It handles the corners as good as my pro-action did after I sorted that skid out. It handles the stutter bumps way better then the pro- action. It also rides way softer then the pro-action and does not beat me up on a long trail ride like the pro did.

Just because I have an issue or two is nothing. I've had issues with everything I've ever owned I think.
 
I've been following all the posts about the ZX-2 with some interest since I currently own an Airwave and I'm somewhat of a sled suspension geek. Maybe my observations will help or maybe not, I'm not claiming to be an expert but I do have some experience in building rear skids.

First off, based on the posts I've read there seems to be an underlying friction issue here. Two reasons:

1) Reports of a harsh ride in the studders unless ridden very hard.

2) Reports of fasteners coming loose at pivot points.

I'm curious, do the crosshafts at the upper and lower pivots of the torque-arms work against the UHMW composite or are they bushed?
 
1. Yes the friction comes from a firm compression valving and too stiff springs.

2. Since I applied new locktite to the one single bolt coming loose (this bolt was initially installed at ADBoivin) I have not had any problem with bolts loosening.

I don't think they are bushed. I do not have the assembly so I cannot check. Anyone who knows please chime in. I rode 125 miles today, it rides great overall. It still need more rebound dampening.
 
MrSled said:
RXrider, I found the same conclusion on the expert-x, years ago when I did 2 season of testing. I know Aaron at Excell can tune and rebuild those shocks to work if you want to make more of an investment.

Thank you Tom.

I have put the sled up for sale so I may not keep it. If I do I would send them to a revalve, or replace the shocks with a some adjustable ones.
 
I have the skid out because I have to change out the front tunnel heat exchanger.

I have found that the skid is in very good shape after 2000 miles of hard use. It has rubbing marks from the track at a few places but nothing major. All idler wheels are still holding up, some are showing signs of wear tho and have to be replaced before next season.

I got the chance to ride my friends turboed '06 Attak with a ZX-2 136" underneat it. MAN WOW what a plush ride over mine. We have the skids set up exactly the same. Stock limiter, spring preload at 3, revolver at 1/4. His sled have 1"+ sag on the weight of the sled itself and another 2" with the rider on it. My sled have no sag and only about 1/2" of sag with me on it, go figure. Needless to say his sled is plush over the small bumps and trail chatter, can hardly feel them at all. It takes the moguls just as good as mine does. It bottoms in the g-bumps where mine does not. One more thing, his skid has less rebound than mine :) My skid is harsh over the small bumps, firm in the moguls and hardly never bottoms out in the g-outs.

There got to be a difference in springs or valving between our two skids. Mine were manufactured back in october 2007 while his were manufactured in january 2008.

My friend have found the reason to why studs are hitting the rear bulkhead and exhaust pipes. When the skid compresses the 4 fins on the upper side of the rear arm pushes the track upwards in the middle when the skid is completely compressed forcing the track and studs upwards even further that it would have without the fins. My fins are severely worn down because every time the skid compresses, the fins touches the track when pushing the track upwards, thus they wear down.
 
when you service his shocks ck the valve stack vs. yours
 


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