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ZX-2 performance review - bolt torking procedures

I agree I updated to the 07 Apex front end just to get the GYTR clicker shocks and I adjusted them every day for conditions and it was awesome to see the difference. I'm going to try 1/4 next sounds like the perfect balance for me.
 

It keeps the skis on the ground for sure :) Transfer is there, but no wheelies anymore.
 
My skid seems to be broken in, it rides smoother now with some miles on it. I have to go up from 4 to 5 on preload cause the springs have loosened up a bit.

My final setup works very well on very rough trails, tight and twisted trails, moguls, whatever. Our trails are BAD, we have no groomed trails.

This is the best setup I have found, I will not touch it anymore.
Limiter strap: Stock, holes 1-3
Preload: 5
Revolver: 1-4

The skid need more rebound dampening. I will talk to Jeff about that, my shock are going in for a re-valve this summer.
 
BTW - the bolts are going out of spec, but very minor. I will look after it every 100-150 miles or so. I have not had a bolt coming loose so far :)
I can live with it, going to service the skid this summer, loctiting the heck of it and tork to spec.
 
I changed my revlover from 2-4 to 1-4 and had a HECK of a time I bent the adjustment wrench slightly, the rubber boot was in the way and I couldn't rotate it enough to move it. I ended up getting one side by hand and the other side I had to lightly tap in with a hammer when I got it close. Definitly not a "trailside" adjustment IMO. I will try this out next week and see how it works.
 
kinger said:
I changed my revlover from 2-4 to 1-4 and had a HECK of a time I bent the adjustment wrench slightly, the rubber boot was in the way and I couldn't rotate it enough to move it. I ended up getting one side by hand and the other side I had to lightly tap in with a hammer when I got it close. Definitly not a "trailside" adjustment IMO. I will try this out next week and see how it works.

I tried to set my sled at 1/5 on the revolver and could not do it without removing the rubber stoppers so I left it at 1/4. How are you able to get the pins to fit in the 1/5 position?
 
I tried it at 2-5 and did not like it at all( to much ski pressure for me). I went back to 2-4 preset 4 and it was much better. I might try 2-3 or 1-4 some day for fun but I think I like the settings now. As RxRider stated as this skid breaks in it seems to get better. I don't think I bottomed out in earlier testing just got to stiff part of the shock. Never tried the 1-5 position
 
If I remember it correctly the manual says that with the coupling in the #1 hole the #5 hole can not be used. That makes sense cause setting it in the #1 and #4 hole took quite some effort. It's maybe me, but I feel that I have got way more ski pressure from the #1 and #4 setting now when the skid has broken in vs when I first set it at 1-4, I still have preload at 4. Now the skid have softened up even more and I have to set preload at 5 before the next time out. When out riding on sunday steering effort became an issue? Why I don't know, it may be that the skid is compressing more resulting in increased ski pressure. I may have to check skis for alingment and toe out as well.
 
Actually the setting that is not possible is having the pins set in positions #1 & #3.

When changing pin positions, I found it to be the easiest when the rear of the sled is lifted off the ground. This way you are not fighting the weight of the sled as well as the track tension. I realize this may not be possible when out riding alone, but if you are with someone, have them lift up on the bumper to give you a hand if possible.

Currently I'm running the pins at #2 & #5. While it doesn't feel as cushy, my skis pretty much stay planted on the ground around the corners. I'm considering setting the pins at #1 & #4 or maybe even #1 & #5 to see if my steering will get some more bite. Right now I just tightened up the springs on my ski shocks to see if there's any change in performance.

Btw, since re-torquing the bolts (after losing one), I haven't had any back out since. I'm feeling more confident in this suspension as time passes. :Rockon:
 
kinger said:
I never tried the 1-5 position. I still haven't tried teh 1-4 positon yet but its ready when I get a chance to run her again!

I mis-typed. I meant 1/4. Sorry fellas.
 
Anyone have bogey wheels schredding? All four of my bottom wheels are schredding on the inside. If no one else is having the problem, then mine must be for one of two reasons.

1. I am studded on the outside and am wondering if riding over the studs is causing it.

2. I rode it for about 80 miles with the bolt missing on the right side revolver. This threw the whole skid way out of whack.
 

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I remembered it the wrong way, 1-5 possible, 1-3 impossible :)

I have confidence in the skid, but I have got issues with studs hitting the rear cooler, rear bulkhead, turbo charge tube and exhaust when bottoming out the skid. I may have to rebuild part of the charge tubes and exhaust system to get them higher up in the tunnel. There is not enough clearance to add to the tunnel protectors. The 8" rear wheels most likely play a part when the skid bottoms pushing the track and studs higher into the tunnel.

The preload goes to 5 this evening. I will add some tunnel protectors over the rear cooler to help prevent damaging the rear cooler totally, It's already got pretty deep grooves from the studs hitting.

BTW - I were out riding with 4 Polaris guys on sunday. They commented on three things;
- the turbo is even louder than their cans
- the Yamaha doesn't dig itself in when out in the powder, they thought my 136" ZX-2 actually floated just as good as their 144" and 151"
- is that the plastic skid??? yes it is. What does it weigh? 54 lbs. Weight savings? 23 lbs.

Cool comments from the Poo guys. And I could follow them around in the deep with ease.
 
stoutner said:
Anyone have bogey wheels schredding? All four of my bottom wheels are schredding on the inside. If no one else is having the problem, then mine must be for one of two reasons.

1. I am studded on the outside and am wondering if riding over the studs is causing it.

2. I rode it for about 80 miles with the bolt missing on the right side revolver. This threw the whole skid way out of whack.


700 miles no shredding, no studs.
 
mdkuni said:
stoutner said:
Anyone have bogey wheels schredding? All four of my bottom wheels are schredding on the inside. If no one else is having the problem, then mine must be for one of two reasons.

1. I am studded on the outside and am wondering if riding over the studs is causing it.

2. I rode it for about 80 miles with the bolt missing on the right side revolver. This threw the whole skid way out of whack.


700 miles no shredding, no studs.

340 miles no shredding, 144 1.4" studs in middle. I will check my middle bogies.
 


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