2024 Sidewider LTX GT EPS

[SweetMother64]

Although I’m experienced with other brands, more recently AC turbos, I’m a total newbie to the Yamaha brand and my recent 24 Sidewinder LTX-GT purchase (last week). I’ve scanned the forums and FAQ here, and as with the OP post, I’m trying to determine must-do mods ahead of the upcoming season. This thread covers studding and tunnel protection well, which I’ll do, but can I ask the veterans for advice on these other mentioned mods below?...or any others I need to consider?

• ROV delete
• Drive shaft saver
• Exhaust bolts?
• Charge tubes

I’ll probably add a modest Eco/powertrail tune from TD along with studs and tunnel protection.

 

[rb2001srx700]

So far I did the ROV delete since new. Stud bolts just high temp all of them and changed the 2 hard ones to bolts. Drive shaft saver since new. No charge tubes yet. Factory one split already. Replaced by factory warranty. New one was better quality. I have the tunnel protectors as well. Some say you don't need them. Studs going in this fall. Middle only. 192 non in the center of the track. Working on scaggs. Possibly semi aggressive snow trackers. Or Bergstrom triple point.

 

[Turboflash]

Although I’m experienced with other brands, more recently AC turbos, I’m a total newbie to the Yamaha brand and my recent 24 Sidewinder LTX-GT purchase (last week). I’ve scanned the forums and FAQ here, and as with the OP post, I’m trying to determine must-do mods ahead of the upcoming season. This thread covers studding and tunnel protection well, which I’ll do, but can I ask the veterans for advice on these other mentioned mods below?...or any others I need to consider?

• ROV delete
• Drive shaft saver
• Exhaust bolts?
• Charge tubes

I’ll probably add a modest Eco/powertrail tune from TD along with studs and tunnel protection.

If you haven't already, I suggest to read the Master Sidewinder Issues list at top of this forum.

 

[earthling]

Drive Shaft Saver
Top Gear Bushing or Top Gear replacement
Might as well change the plastic reverse gear actuators out for brass ones while you are in there.
Check all hoses (clamp tightness)
Muffler bolts - at minimum, take them out while they are new and use a nickel based anti-sieze, better, replace them with class 10.9 hex bolts
Check chain tension
Check track tension (should be tight, they are typically loose)
check the wiring under the fuse holder (did this get moved for EPS sleds?)
ROV delete
sign up for a membership here so you have up to date tech bulletins and service manuals
ride it like you stole it

 

[74Nitro]

Although I’m experienced with other brands, more recently AC turbos, I’m a total newbie to the Yamaha brand and my recent 24 Sidewinder LTX-GT purchase (last week). I’ve scanned the forums and FAQ here, and as with the OP post, I’m trying to determine must-do mods ahead of the upcoming season. This thread covers studding and tunnel protection well, which I’ll do, but can I ask the veterans for advice on these other mentioned mods below?...or any others I need to consider?

• ROV delete
• Drive shaft saver
• Exhaust bolts?
• Charge tubes

I’ll probably add a modest Eco/powertrail tune from TD along with studs and tunnel protection.

Is the machine new or used?

 

[KnappAttack]

I've tried a lot of different exhaust bolts, stainless, header, hi-grade, flanged, this and that etc. The best I have found is the stock Torx bolts that come with the machine and using Nickel anti-seize on them. Not sure why others would recommend going away from them if you don't have to. If using certain mufflers it may require them in a couple of holes, but I've tried all the so-called "great bolts" and none hold or work as well as the stock factory muffler bolts the machine came with. They either stretch or just don't hold well and loosen up over time. Factory bolts hold as they should, don't stretch and just plain work. You have to use a good nickel anti-seize on them if you want to get them out as without it they hold too well and are hard or almost impossible to get out when needed. The stock bolts have a goofy triangulated style thread on them, and I think thats what makes them stay tight. Stock bolts are expensive to purchase but no doubt the best for the application here.

 

[earthling]

I've tried a lot of different exhaust bolts, stainless, header, hi-grade, flanged, this and that etc. The best I have found is the stock Torx bolts that come with the machine and using Nickel anti-seize on them. Not sure why others would recommend going away from them if you don't have to. If using certain mufflers it may require them in a couple of holes, but I've tried all the so-called "great bolts" and none hold or work as well as the stock factory muffler bolts the machine came with. They either stretch or just don't hold well and loosen up over time. Factory bolts hold as they should, don't stretch and just plain work. You have to use a good nickel anti-seize on them if you want to get them out as without it they hold too well and are hard or almost impossible to get out when needed. The stock bolts have a goofy triangulated style thread on them, and I think thats what makes them stay tight. Stock bolts are expensive to purchase but no doubt the best for the application here.

Running high quality grade 9 hex bolts, they hold just as good as the stock ones, are far easier to remove, and lower profile. No problems at all with them getting loose. Always use nickel anti-seize.

 

[74Nitro]

I've tried a lot of different exhaust bolts, stainless, header, hi-grade, flanged, this and that etc. The best I have found is the stock Torx bolts that come with the machine and using Nickel anti-seize on them. Not sure why others would recommend going away from them if you don't have to. If using certain mufflers it may require them in a couple of holes, but I've tried all the so-called "great bolts" and none hold or work as well as the stock factory muffler bolts the machine came with. They either stretch or just don't hold well and loosen up over time. Factory bolts hold as they should, don't stretch and just plain work. You have to use a good nickel anti-seize on them if you want to get them out as without it they hold too well and are hard or almost impossible to get out when needed. The stock bolts have a goofy triangulated style thread on them, and I think thats what makes them stay tight. Stock bolts are expensive to purchase but no doubt the best for the application here.

Agree, and they're stainless.

 

[74Nitro]

Running high quality grade 9 hex bolts, they hold just as good as the stock ones, are far easier to remove, and lower profile. No problems at all with them getting loose. Always use nickel anti-seize.

It is nice to have a hex on the one that is harder to get at.

 

[Turboflash]

It is nice to have a hex on the one that is harder to get at.

Agree. That one at 9 o'clock, especially with 3" PM. The space is limited. I use a grade 8 hex head bolt. I even ground the thickness of head down a bit. Then, I notched the muffler flange so I can always leave that bolt in even if I'm removing muffler. The bolt staying in also means I leave the gasket in too. It just pivots on bolt.

 

[KnappAttack]

I dont even bother with a bolt in the 9 o'clock bolt. Some mufflers on the market don't even come with that spot drilled at all.

 

[Turboflash]

BTW - for those who might be wondering how tight those bolts need to be to prevent leaks, the factory torque spec is 1st tighten to 9 ft lbs in criss-cross pattern, then finish at 18 ft lbs. Super-human strength not required and no breaker bars please.
I've actually seen a couple sleds where someone tightened the bolts so tight it warped the flange!

 

[SweetMother64]

Is the machine new or used?

The machine is new. Thanks a ton to all of you for responding to this thread for me. This forum is awesome...ed

 

[74Nitro]

The machine is new. Thanks a ton to all of you for responding to this thread for me. This forum is awesome...ed

Given that it is new, I would just install the driveshaft wedge and ride.
After a few thousand miles then have a look in the chaincase.
The top gear bushing from 2022 and up has been standing up better than the previous one and the factory has been doing a better job loctiting the tensioner screws.

 

[SweetMother64]

It's getting some basic service (mirrors, larger tunnel bag, tunnel protection) now before I pick it up at the dealer - it will be in again at Iantomassi in a couple months for studding, ECOtrail ECU, Snowtrackers. I think I’ll change the gear ratio to 21/38 with 84 chain and may spring for the Precision update to deal with the tensioner problem if needed - nice to hear they are fastened more securely now though. I can deal with any other suggested fixes mentioned here at the same time when the chaincase is open.

I can replace the exhaust bolts but it would be great if someone on here knows the spec. The sled is 2 hours away (Midland) from where I live (Burlington).