2024 Sidewider LTX GT EPS

[74Nitro]

Thanks again! It's getting some basic service (mirrors, larger tunnel bag, tunnel protection) now before I pick it up at the dealer - it will be in again at Iantomassi in a couple months for studding, ECOtrail ECU, Snowtrackers. I think I’ll change the gear ratio to 21/38 with 84 chain and may spring for the Precision update to deal with the tensioner problem if needed - nice to hear they are fastened more securely now though. I can deal with any other suggested fixes mentioned here at the same time when the chaincase is open.

I can replace the exhaust bolts but it would be great if someone on here knows the spec. The sled is 2 hours away (Midland) from where I live (Burlington).

The precision tensioner is a nice piece.
I'd be more apt to switch to a 22 top. I find that larger top sprockets are easier on the chain.
The factory exhaust bolts are stainless steel.

 

[Turboflash]

Exhaust bolts = M8 x 1.25 x 30mm length.

 

[Turboflash]

The precision tensioner is a nice piece.
I'd be more apt to switch to a 22 top. I find that larger top sprockets are easier on the chain.
The factory exhaust bolts are stainless steel.

22/38 will not fit an 84 pitch chain; unless chain is stretched beyond service limits.
21/38 = 1.81 ratio. A 21/37 (1.77) will fit but big larger dog-leg. 1st pic 21/38. 2nd pic 21/37. Both with 84 pitch chain.
If you keep chain at correct tension, 22-37 works. If you don't watch chain tension, then likely you'll get chain rubbing on center post. NFG.

 

[74Nitro]

22/38 will not fit an 84 pitch chain; unless chain is stretched beyond service limits.
21/38 = 1.81 ratio. A 21/37 (1.77) will fit but big larger dog-leg. 1st pic 21/38. 2nd pic 21/37. Both with 84 pitch chain.
If you keep chain at correct tension, 22-37 works. If you don't watch chain tension, then likely you'll get chain rubbing on center post. NFG.

No, I meant use a 22 with the stock chain and lower gear.

 

[Turboflash]

No, I meant use a 22 with the stock chain and lower g

No, I meant use a 22 with the stock chain and lower gear.

Yup, that will work.

 

[SweetMother64]

Ok so if I play back your gear ratio / chain advice, my option is either 21/38 with the 84 chain or I can get close to the same improvement on top end by opting for the 22 top sprocket and keeping the stock 41 lower and stock 86 chain? Both options have good efficiency with minimal dog leg. The second saves me the additional expense of the chain and bottom sprocket. I spoke with TD about an ECU tune recommendation earlier today and he suggested I simply ride for couple hundred miles and the chain will naturally loosen up a bit to accommodate the 22 sprocket gear. Does this make sense? Thanks for being such a huge source of helpful advice...

 

[Turboflash]

21/38 = 1.81 ratio.
22/41 = 1.86 ratio.
Very close to same.
Yes, if you run stock chain a bit, you'd be able to fit a 22/41 and not have to buy a new 84 pitch chain and new 38 tooth lower gear.
Theoretically, a 21/38 uses an 84 pitch chain. A 21/41 or 22/41 uses 86 pitch chain.

 

[SweetMother64]

Is this kit from Hurricane a good option to swap to a 22 top gear? Looks like it solves some other chaincase issues...

 

[74Nitro]

Is this kit from Hurricane a good option to swap to a 22 top gear? Looks like it solves some other chaincase issues...

How much warranty do you have?

 

[SweetMother64]

Just out of the crate so 1 year I suspect. I didn't purchase any other options. I'm still going to follow your original advice and install the shaft saver and simply ride it the first season to get used to it. Otherwise just installing cosmetic things like mirrors, scratchers, skags and a bigger bag...and also studding and protector. I run a lot of ice on the eastern side of Georgian Bay so I need the studs for safety. You're welcome to join me...

 

[1nc 2000]

Is this kit from Hurricane a good option to swap to a 22 top gear? Looks like it solves some other chaincase issues...

I have that gear and shift pads in mine with no issues.
Also need to tack weld the screws that hold the roller in place on the chaincase tensioner.

 

[74Nitro]

Just out of the crate so 1 year I suspect. I didn't purchase any other options. I'm still going to follow your original advice and install the shaft saver and simply ride it the first season to get used to it. Otherwise just installing cosmetic things like mirrors, scratchers, skags and a bigger bag...and also studding and protector. I run a lot of ice on the eastern side of Georgian Bay so I need the studs for safety. You're welcome to join me...

Those are tight trails around there are they not?

I'm not saying that gasket isn't good, but I have over 10000 miles on my 19 and my oil tank has yet to leak and I run the stock oil blowby setup.

Nothing wrong with running mostly stock the first season.

 

[EWK]

Congrats on the new Winder. Make sure to bleed the air out of the cooling system. This tripped me up in my 1st year with the SW and ruined a trip due to overheating. There are many threads on this, but basically need to get the front end way above the rear - run the sled - open the cap on the overflow - push down on the rear end and get all that air out of the system. Some dealers do this prior to delivery. Many do not.

 

[rb2001srx700]

Update so far. Studded center of track. 192 mega bite. All doubles. STM tunnel protectors. Added BRP rear scratchers. Fit nicely under the tunnel flares when not in use. Hurricane gold charge tubes. 4th wheel kit installed with Barn of Parts plastic deletes kit. LJE trail courtesy light.

Next up will be scaggs. Big thanks to my Brother in law and Father in law for the help.

 

[Simplespeed]

Its good to read that the boys with experience are still here giving good sound advice… On a 2024 Sidewinder I put on over 1000 miles last winter and here to report that this is what I found my machine either needed or in my opinion did not need at this point.. I did not do a Roll over value delete on this machine as the set up was changed compared to my 2017 and found that the oil in the intake track is no longer a issue.. i used 1575 mega bites in the center of the track with angled double and angled singles down the center of track only… I believe the number used was 128. After studding I found that it effected the clutching in the 0 to 90 mph by making it lazy and not taking advantage of studs so I changed the secondary clutching . After these changes it nows makes use of the studs as it should.. The charge tubes were changed before I rode the sled also. I did not add any tunnel protection and just keep track on the tighter side of tolerance. Driveshaft saver is a must have due to the design! I have done nothing inside of chain case and will inspect and change oil before this season.. No leaks on seal, no gear issues and sled ran great all season…Sled is still stock and working with getting more power to the ground this year and making use of whats already there…