Pureadrenaline
Expert
I am sure this has been beaten to death but, this season we are hoping to do a few upgrades to the GT, just wondering what easy mods can be done. I am mainly looking to increase the handling, but I'm open to all suggestions.
Thanks,
-pure-
Thanks,
-pure-
nate007
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If you are looking to increase handling, lower your front end until the A-arms are level, or just slightly above level. Don't forget to tighten your limiter strap one hole to compenstate.
Upgrade to better carbides also, there are more debates about which to use, but Dooley's, Bergstrom's, Stud Boy's Shapers, are just a few...
Upgrade to better carbides also, there are more debates about which to use, but Dooley's, Bergstrom's, Stud Boy's Shapers, are just a few...
justinator
Lifetime Member
depends on your riding style I'd say. I ride mostly trail except for march when I ride mostly off trail. The ripsaw track s a great performer off trail but horrible when things get soft or off trail. I replaced the ripsaw with a 1.375 zr900 track fully clipped but if your looking for better handling, skis might be a good place to start. I installed 6.9 pilot skis which are a little wider for better float off trail. Pilots handle really well on yamaha and are only $90 a bottom, plus you need the skidoo rubber stopper for $12. The yammie loops fit with a little trimming and so does the mounting bolt. Good investment in my book especially if you had darting issues. Have you upgraded to larger or better quality idlers, yamaha ones suck. slightly larger ones will give you twice the slide life and reduce the rolling resistance big time. There are tons of topics regarding this though. Depends I guess what your dislikes from last year were. These were mine and I covered it for this year.
Embden
Extreme
Simmons flex ski's with dual carbides are awesome and you can't beat the Rox Riser. Seems like a lot of guys (almost everone) on this site has had some handling issues, including myself. The best advice that I can give is to take your machine out by yourself with your spanner wrench and start making adjustments. Be patient and you'll be amazed. My machine is day and night difference from the stock settings and it really rails! I contemplated spending $ on other parts to make the handling better, but to spend almost ten G's on a sled and have to go out and spend more would really suck. So before you decide on dropping dough on expensive suspension parts.... spend so time on the one's you've got. I was plesantly surprised!
apexgt4life
Expert
shock revalve
yamaouch08
Expert
+1 the rear shock on the GT is in need of a revalve,big time!!apexgt4life said:shock revalve
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
nate007 said:If you are looking to increase handling, lower your front end until the A-arms are level, or just slightly above level. Don't forget to tighten your limiter strap one hole to compenstate.
Upgrade to better carbides also, there are more debates about which to use, but Dooley's, Bergstrom's, Stud Boy's Shapers, are just a few...
I don't think that you want RX06+ (or any RS) down that low. RX03-05 had taller spindles with arms closer to flat, they could be lowered to completely flat without adverse effects. For the ones with the short spindles, running the arms flat will result in the suspension sitting too low and possibly with the springs set to BELOW zero preload (ie, they could FALL OUT if the skis come off the ground).
Pioneer performance revalve and a set of Doo Pilots.
Embden
Extreme
All you guys saying to have Pioneer Revalve.... are you talking about front and rear shock??? My Ohlins rear ended up blowing apart the end of last season (real bad). Yamaha agreed to cover the cost of the new parts which was all rebuilt by Pioneer in NY. They did revalve it to my weight and riding style and I can't wait to try it but...... are you guys revalving the front shocks too????
nate007
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(lazybastard)
I run my sled level all the time.
What are you talking about having the springs "fall out"??? The only thing I did to it was to back the set collars off on the shocks. There isn't anything else involved. There isn't anyting to fall out., and the springs are completely stock.
My neighbor has an RX Warrior, and we couldn't tell any difference in his sleds spindles. The ride height has nothing to do with what kind of spindles you have. The factory springs do not have to be shortened, and realistically he shocks don't know any different than being compressed slightly during a bump.
I jump my sled quite a bit, and do a ton of ditch banging, and I haven't had any problems.
The main goal is to decrease the top-heavy nature of the sled during cornering, and it makes a huge difference in cornering ability.
I run my sled level all the time.
What are you talking about having the springs "fall out"??? The only thing I did to it was to back the set collars off on the shocks. There isn't anything else involved. There isn't anyting to fall out., and the springs are completely stock.
My neighbor has an RX Warrior, and we couldn't tell any difference in his sleds spindles. The ride height has nothing to do with what kind of spindles you have. The factory springs do not have to be shortened, and realistically he shocks don't know any different than being compressed slightly during a bump.
I jump my sled quite a bit, and do a ton of ditch banging, and I haven't had any problems.
The main goal is to decrease the top-heavy nature of the sled during cornering, and it makes a huge difference in cornering ability.
Shane
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nate007 said:(lazybastard)
I run my sled level all the time.
What are you talking about having the springs "fall out"??? The only thing I did to it was to back the set collars off on the shocks. There isn't anything else involved. There isn't anyting to fall out., and the springs are completely stock.
My neighbor has an RX Warrior, and we couldn't tell any difference in his sleds spindles. The ride height has nothing to do with what kind of spindles you have. The factory springs do not have to be shortened, and realistically he shocks don't know any different than being compressed slightly during a bump.
I jump my sled quite a bit, and do a ton of ditch banging, and I haven't had any problems.
The main goal is to decrease the top-heavy nature of the sled during cornering, and it makes a huge difference in cornering ability.
Agreed
actionjack
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In my experience with my 06 GT lowering the front end eliminated the ski lift very nicely. My A Arms are not level to the ground but they are much less raked than they were when I got the sled. I had the sled jacked up in the middle over the weekend to shim the skis and I could very easily rotate the springs. I did not change my limiter strap setting and do not intend to since I already accomplished flatter cornering.
The revalve is for the rear Ohlins only. You should be OK since they consulted you on your weight and riding style but my Ohlins rear shock blew after the first revalve. The front GYT-Rs reservoir shocks on the GT are excellent. The next time the EC Ohlins blows that isn't covered under warranty I'm replacing it with another shock.
The revalve is for the rear Ohlins only. You should be OK since they consulted you on your weight and riding style but my Ohlins rear shock blew after the first revalve. The front GYT-Rs reservoir shocks on the GT are excellent. The next time the EC Ohlins blows that isn't covered under warranty I'm replacing it with another shock.
Soldier'spapa
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nate007 said:(lazybastard)
I run my sled level all the time.
What are you talking about having the springs "fall out"??? The only thing I did to it was to back the set collars off on the shocks. There isn't anything else involved. There isn't anyting to fall out., and the springs are completely stock.
My neighbor has an RX Warrior, and we couldn't tell any difference in his sleds spindles. The ride height has nothing to do with what kind of spindles you have. The factory springs do not have to be shortened, and realistically he shocks don't know any different than being compressed slightly during a bump.
I jump my sled quite a bit, and do a ton of ditch banging, and I haven't had any problems.
The main goal is to decrease the top-heavy nature of the sled during cornering, and it makes a huge difference in cornering ability.
"LB" makes a good point. He is saying that there is the possibility of having the slotted spring retainer (At the bottom of the spring) come out when the skis are fully extended. I had this happen to me on an older Doo, however, on the GT front shocks the rubber bottoming bumper stays at the bottom of the shock keeping the retainer in place. I ran most of the season last year with negative preload on my front springs without issue. I checked the retainers often.... no problem!
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