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1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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- Marquette, MI
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- Yamaha FX Nytro RTX SE
After your done bleeding out the brakes squeeze the brake lever and put a zip tie around it with the bleeder closed.
Let it sit for a day or two even with the reservoir cover on. The rest of air will work its way out and have a great lever then.
Let it sit for a day or two even with the reservoir cover on. The rest of air will work its way out and have a great lever then.
Snowbound98
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- Mar 11, 2019
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- Chicagoland
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- 2015 SR Viper M-TX 153
I didn’t have a day or two and I made sure I had no air. I reverse bleed the system. Push thru caliper up the line into a catch can coming out the banjo fitting. Then I hook up the master with brake lever zip tied to bar, handle bar steered to the right so brake line is running uphill to master and push fluid thru master until full, suck that out and push fluid in again until master is full enough where I can put cover on. Cut zip tie and slowly allow lever to return. Slow short squeezes of lever making sure no bubbles are present in master and it works every time.After your done bleeding out the brakes squeeze the brake lever and put a zip tie around it with the bleeder closed.
Let it sit for a day or two even with the reservoir cover on. The rest of air will work its way out and have a great lever then.
Had one slight issue this time around. I couldn’t build pressure with lever. I had no air in line or caliper and fought the lever until I decided to pull the master apart. I already rebuilt it last year and put all new parts in.
I pulled the caliper too but parts were back ordered so I didn’t put but 15 miles on the Viper last season.
So the caliper was rebuilt with new seals and pistons before I started this bleeding process last weekend. But for some reason or other the seal in master swelled and was soft like fluid contamination. Never had anything other than the DOT4 that’s in it now hit the seal. Maybe wrong materials of construction? Either way, I was able to use my old seal to get the brakes bled and pressure back.
Same seal but look at the size difference. The rear o-ring was fine. Not sure what happened there.
Brake lever has 1” between bar and lowest part of lever now which seems on par with the Winder and the XTX Viper.
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1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2010
- Messages
- 3,057
- Location
- Marquette, MI
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Yamaha FX Nytro RTX SE
I just replaced replaced my caliper.
Did the reverse bleed method also.
Other years didn't have any issues bleeding out air using the reverse method.
This year I couldn't pump up a good lever after having good clean fluid coming out in reservoir.
Did the zip tie trick and have a nice solid lever now.
Nice work there on your sled.
![Sled2 :sled2: :sled2:](/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/sled2.gif)
Did the reverse bleed method also.
Other years didn't have any issues bleeding out air using the reverse method.
This year I couldn't pump up a good lever after having good clean fluid coming out in reservoir.
Did the zip tie trick and have a nice solid lever now.
Nice work there on your sled.
![Sled2 :sled2: :sled2:](/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/sled2.gif)
Snowbound98
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- Chicagoland
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- 2015 SR Viper M-TX 153
Seems like they’re hit or miss. I told my brother how I do mine and he tried with no luck on his XTX Viper. I tried on his and same thing, it was better but not a firm lever. We ended up lifting the front end about 8” and also tipped it in the left side by about 10” and left it over night and it came around. Didn’t have lever tied to bar though. Thought maybe because my MTX bars are higher and at a different angle. Idk?! They suck to bleed and I won’t even go into cooling system. I had to vacuum bleed the coolant on my winder trying to figure out my temperature issue. Still ran hot so now I’m tearing into it and replacing the water pump impeller. I hope I find it spun or something that justifies me taking it apart. I just want it to be able to run a minute at a stop sign without going into limp mode. I’m putting a radiator on it if it does it again this year. I have a feeling I’m gonna be spending more time on my Viper this season. But that’s ok too.I just replaced replaced my caliper.
Did the reverse bleed method also.
Other years didn't have any issues bleeding out air using the reverse method.
This year I couldn't pump up a good lever after having good clean fluid coming out in reservoir.
Did the zip tie trick and have a nice solid lever now.
Nice work there on your sled.
![]()
Snowbound98
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- 2015 SR Viper M-TX 153
Minor set back on the Winder again. Secondary rollers. Pin has wallowed out the hole allowing the roller to have play so it won’t run true and also wore into the retaining screw. Looking at a Viper or STM secondary instead of replacing sheave every other season. I haven’t had any exploded belts yet and I wanna keep it that way.
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Upstater57
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- 2022 Tcat EPS,
2014 ZR9000 (sold)
1978,1979,1980 SRX (sold)
Maybe that bolt needs to have some loctite when you replace the sheave. On the cat secondary the assembly bolts come with red loctite on them from the factory.Minor set back on the Winder again. Secondary rollers. Pin has wallowed out the hole allowing the roller to have play so it won’t run true and also wore into the retaining screw. Looking at a Viper or STM secondary instead of replacing sheave every other season. I haven’t had any exploded belts yet and I wanna keep it that way. View attachment 174029
View attachment 174030
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View attachment 174032
Snowbound98
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- 2015 SR Viper M-TX 153
I found a secondary off a wrecked 15 Viper that I’m going to use. I know it won’t be as smooth or as fast as the roller clutch but I’m not dealing with this roller issue. Hopefully I’ll have it next week so I can send it off to Thunder Products.Maybe that bolt needs to have some loctite when you replace the sheave. On the cat secondary the assembly bolts come with red loctite on them from the factoy.
Snowbound98
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Been a minute since I updated this, better get it caught up while I’m thinking about it.
December I started installing the wrap from Deviant Ink.
I wanted to get rid of the hi-viz colors and go with a solid color but couldn’t find what I wanted so I bit the bullet and went against my better judgment and got the precut wrap.
I also got my seat back from upholstery shop where they removed the hi-viz stripe and replaced it with black all the way around the bottom.
December I started installing the wrap from Deviant Ink.
I wanted to get rid of the hi-viz colors and go with a solid color but couldn’t find what I wanted so I bit the bullet and went against my better judgment and got the precut wrap.
I also got my seat back from upholstery shop where they removed the hi-viz stripe and replaced it with black all the way around the bottom.
Snowbound98
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- 2015 SR Viper M-TX 153
My shocks came back from Steve, aka Shock Doc and he never disappoints. I even got the upgraded caps to eliminate the shocks from leaking. Customer for life.
Then I installed my new dual rate Twisted springs from HyGear.
Then I installed my new dual rate Twisted springs from HyGear.
Snowbound98
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- 2015 SR Viper M-TX 153
Got the shocks installed and the front end back together minus the custom lower arms. Taking my time making a jig for that.
So now the new springs were on to match my HyGear rear torsion springs and it should ride even better now that it’s set up for my weight and all new shock fluid.
I tackled the water pump impeller next.
Figured while I was there, story of my life, let’s pull the stub shaft and install the knockout kit and also inspect the bearing.
So now the new springs were on to match my HyGear rear torsion springs and it should ride even better now that it’s set up for my weight and all new shock fluid.
I tackled the water pump impeller next.
Figured while I was there, story of my life, let’s pull the stub shaft and install the knockout kit and also inspect the bearing.
Snowbound98
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- 2015 SR Viper M-TX 153
Did not see any signs of a bad impeller. Was hoping it was stripped out or a broken blade, anything to justify buying the billet impeller but no.
I bought all new parts to put it back together. New mechanical seal, bearings, seal and o-rings. I even bought a new housing expecting the worst and new dowel pins.
And of course since it was apart I couldn’t just put it back together raw aluminum. It got a POR15 treatment.
Knockout kit went in although I don’t expect much because everyone says they sound great for 5 minutes and then back to the same rattle as before. Oh well, I did get to inspect things and I even changed the bearing just because I had it out. Of course got paint as well. Why not right?
I bought all new parts to put it back together. New mechanical seal, bearings, seal and o-rings. I even bought a new housing expecting the worst and new dowel pins.
And of course since it was apart I couldn’t just put it back together raw aluminum. It got a POR15 treatment.
Knockout kit went in although I don’t expect much because everyone says they sound great for 5 minutes and then back to the same rattle as before. Oh well, I did get to inspect things and I even changed the bearing just because I had it out. Of course got paint as well. Why not right?
Snowbound98
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- 2015 SR Viper M-TX 153
Primary got a good cleaning, inspection and reassembly.
All went back together after I installed a BOP bellypan protector.
Then I pulled the oil tank and chaincase cover to finally install my DMC 22T top gear.
I wouldn’t be me if I didn’t sandblast and paint them as well. If you haven’t noticed the pattern yet, that’s on you.
All went back together after I installed a BOP bellypan protector.
Then I pulled the oil tank and chaincase cover to finally install my DMC 22T top gear.
I wouldn’t be me if I didn’t sandblast and paint them as well. If you haven’t noticed the pattern yet, that’s on you.
Snowbound98
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- 2015 SR Viper M-TX 153
Another, “while I’m in there” moment happened.
Case back together with new gear and tensioner, I’m almost whole again. Almost.
Here it is January and it hasn’t snowed yet and I’m getting impatient. I’m heading up north to go grab my Viper just in case I need to make a run to Canada to get some miles on. I ordered a new 56” tool box from HF to take up with me because I desperately need a new box up there. This is what shows up. It’s upside down and rewrapped with box damaged. I can’t win for nothing.
It’s all beat up, damaged and drawer locks were broken and they offered me 10% off and a voided warranty. I was beyond livid, made them come pick it up and take it back but it took me 5 months to get a refund. Never again.
Case back together with new gear and tensioner, I’m almost whole again. Almost.
Here it is January and it hasn’t snowed yet and I’m getting impatient. I’m heading up north to go grab my Viper just in case I need to make a run to Canada to get some miles on. I ordered a new 56” tool box from HF to take up with me because I desperately need a new box up there. This is what shows up. It’s upside down and rewrapped with box damaged. I can’t win for nothing.
It’s all beat up, damaged and drawer locks were broken and they offered me 10% off and a voided warranty. I was beyond livid, made them come pick it up and take it back but it took me 5 months to get a refund. Never again.
Snowbound98
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- 2015 SR Viper M-TX 153
I went up north with my buddy Nick and a load of wood to build a winter mud room, snow room if you will, off the attached garage going into the house. We always shuffle into the house and that’s a hallway with washer/dryer and furnace leading into kitchen and have to undress in kitchen with no good place to hang our gear so I decided since I wanted to go grab my Viper, let’s take a weekend and see how much of a “snow room” we can get built in a day and a half.
Snowbound98
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- 2015 SR Viper M-TX 153
We made good progress that weekend. Half day on Friday and all day Saturday. We left Sunday morning and headed home with Viper on sled deck.
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