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Apex Oil Change

On my 13 I didn't break it down too much more but that headlight is a little bit in the way to it just tilted but I think stripping it out and accessing that fill hole doesn't make sense

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Guys please, stop saying a yearly oil change needs a filter change. 20,000km is when the filter needs to be change.

I realize some old school of taught wants to change it yearly, fine. But stop complaining about how hard the filter is to get at since it isn't designed to be change often since its not needed.
 
Replaced filter and DRAINED most of my oil last night. That stupid Allen bolt on the bottom of the engine is seized to the point that it broke the ball end off of my 4" 6mm ball end ratchet bit. PB Blaster, and heat still didn't get it off. Next time it comes off its getting changed to a hex head bolt.
 
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Replaced filter and changed most of my oil last night. That stupid Allen bolt on the bottom of the engine is seized to the point that it broke the ball end off of my 4" 6mm ball end ratchet bit. PB Blaster, and heat still didn't get it off. Next time it comes off its getting changed to a hex head bolt.

First mistake, BALL end allen....
You should be able to get vice grips on that button shaped bolt.
 
I have found the drain plug removal requires a "shock" type torque force rather than constant torque force if you get my meaning. Typically when the bolt breaks free, it cracks or snaps loose very quickly often causing busted knuckles and a fair amount of cussing or even wrench heaving!
The depth of the Allen socket on these button head style bolts is very shallow, so you need to have an Allen wrench in good shape firstly, I have even ground them flat on the end to make sure the wrench gets all of the available socket depth in the bolt head. A few good shock bumps with the heel of your hand on the Allen wrench rather than constant twist force is usually the ticket for breaking them free.

If the Allen socket in the bolt is actually stripped, I have used vice grips if there is access, but for this situation, and more commonly with the frozen or stripped Phillips head shoulder bolts that hold the body panels on, I often revert to a sharp center punch and a hammer used on the outermost diameter of the bolt head. Get a good center punch divot or two started, then a few good strikes with the punch and hammer at a right angle in the ccw direction, and it usually breaks free no problem. Definitely a good idea to replace with a flanged hex head bolt for future consideration as well.
FWIW.........
 
Replaced filter and changed most of my oil last night. That stupid Allen bolt on the bottom of the engine is seized to the point that it broke the ball end off of my 4" 6mm ball end ratchet bit. PB Blaster, and heat still didn't get it off. Next time it comes off its getting changed to a hex head bolt.

Action: you will find that this bolt isn't actually seized, rather its the amount of surface contact between the head of the bolt and the washer/engine, this creates the need for some wicked force to break free. This is not unlike a tapered countersunk or flat head style allen bolt, or shoulder screw, there is so much surface contact it is a bish to break them free. Shock force is your friend in these situations, but a good grasp of the fastener is also key. Good luck with it!
 
sometimes you can got just a little bit it the cw direction just to hear that snap sound that breaks it loose from the "weld hold" it has from minor corosion as some time the shoulders are worn in the ccw direction but we dont reef on it to tighten it this is a trick that works real well on philips head and sometime on allen too. not meaning to break the bolt but just to get that initial friction to break loose so it can move. good luck let us know how it works out.
 
I have had to use a chisel on one of my RX's on that allen pan bolt. Have done this many times on seized bolts to start them loose for 40 year as a service tech. Works every time with one tap with a hammer and don't slip off like a punch could. Even done this on the crappie Phillips body panel fasteners.
 
After my very first complete oil change with filter and having a tough time getting the bottom drain plug out like everyone else , I then remove the bottom plug after a complete warm-up (hot) of the the motor... it has always been much easier.
 


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