Barn of Parts New Driveshaft Solution

[hibshman25]

THe issue I see with a this design is you now have a smaller bearing due to the collar.

Not sure I follow you here. Inserting a collar into a bearing does not make it a smaller bearing. Ball bearings in this bearing are the exact same size as a std 6009 bearing so it will distribute the load no different than the stock bearing.

 

[KnappAttack]

yes, check the shaft first for wear as BOP has pictures of what degrees of wear look like. My Sidewinder has 4750 miles on it and no shaft wear. I guess I'm just lucky so far. Anyone else out there without shaft wear? just wondering what percentage of bad shafts are out there. Joe

Hard to imagine you could go that long without shaft wear, you must be one of one that has no shaft wear. Most people don't know they have a worn shaft because they don't actually take it apart to see the wear. Perhaps yours rusted and kept it from spinning. I've taken them apart with just hundreds of miles to find shaft wear and spinning bearing.

Only way I have found with any consistency to actually keep the bearing from spinning on the shaft is the expanding shaft saver from BOP. They start spinning the bearing on the shaft from the very first first mile, tuned or not. They are just a slip fit on the shaft and spin at will if not using a shaft saver right from new.

Even guys using the shaft saver have had spinning if not tightening it properly using anti-seize or grease on the wedge to bind the shaft to the bearing, but if done right, the wedge is the answer on a good shaft.

Attached is a picture of a shaft thats had the BOP shaft saver in it for 4000 miles. No spinning (actually notice a bit of rust on it) and it was installed on a good new shaft with .0015" slip fit which is pretty good and tight for a new shaft (it actually had a hundred miles on it and the bearing had started to spin, but was still savable). BOP shaft saver installed with anti-seize on the wedge fingers and blue loctite on the bolt at 55 foot lbs. final torque. It held just like it should and came apart a bit tough actually. Stock Peer bearing looks good and is getting a re-pack with grease and sent on its way again.

I know this about the new product BOP is providing for extreme wear on the shaft and I don't want to derail it, but for people doing the shaft saver, don't forget its the last thing to get tightened on assembly, track installed, suspension installed and tightened track. Install BOP Shaft Saver snugged up and tighten the bolt up with turning shaft and track to normalize the bearing on the shaft as not to tighten down crooked on the shaft, its an important step to keep is from wobbling the bearing on the shaft to go up in torque with spinning the shaft also till you get to final torque.

 

[sailor joe]

Hard to imagine you could go that long without shaft wear, you must be one of one that has no shaft wear. Most people don't know they have a worn shaft because they don't actually take it apart to see the wear. Perhaps yours rusted and kept it from spinning. I've taken them apart with just hundreds of miles to find shaft wear and spinning bearing.

Only way I have found with any consistency to actually keep the bearing from spinning on the shaft is the expanding shaft saver from BOP. They start spinning the bearing on the shaft from the very first first mile, tuned or not. They are just a slip fit on the shaft and spin at will if not using a shaft saver right from new.

Even guys using the shaft saver have had spinning if not tightening it properly using anti-seize or grease on the wedge to bind the shaft to the bearing, but if done right, the wedge is the answer on a good shaft.

Attached is a picture of a shaft thats had the BOP shaft saver in it for 4000 miles. No spinning (actually notice a bit of rust on it) and it was installed on a good new shaft with .0015" slip fit which is pretty good and tight for a new shaft (it actually had a hundred miles on it and the bearing had started to spin, but was still savable). BOP shaft saver installed with anti-seize on the wedge fingers and blue loctite on the bolt at 55 foot lbs. final torque. It held just like it should and came apart a bit tough actually. Stock Peer bearing looks good and is getting a re-pack with grease and sent on its way again.

I know this about the new product BOP is providing for extreme wear on the shaft and I don't want to derail it, but for people doing the shaft saver, don't forget its the last thing to get tightened on assembly, track installed, suspension installed and tightened track. Install BOP Shaft Saver snugged up and tighten the bolt up with turning shaft and track to normalize the bearing on the shaft as not to tighten down crooked on the shaft, its an important step to keep is from wobbling the bearing on the shaft to go up in torque with spinning the shaft also till you get to final torque.

View attachment 169891

I have the greatest respect for your opinion and mechanical experience. I brought my sled to the dealer and I asked specifically to check the shaft as my sled is still under warranty. What I was told was the shaft had no wear. The did change a bushing in the chain case.
In 2 weeks I will be traveling to Lebanon PA to visit a friend, I will pick up a wedge at BOP and install as per your instructions on how to do it right. I'm not much of a mechanic but your instruction are straight forward. The thing is, if I added the wedge from the beginning that would have voided the warranty, I still have another year to go on that. I hope you can understand what position that puts me in...being the day after warranty expiration I have a toasted shaft come to find out and if its worn now and I add the wedge then good buy free fix. I think they call this a conundrum...Mike, thanks for the picture, explanation and proper instructions on installation. Joe

 

[RAMSOMAIR]

You would not need warranty for the shaft if you had the BOP wedge in.

 

[KnappAttack]

You would not need warranty for the shaft if you had the BOP wedge in.

Bingo,
When my new SRX comes in it will get a BOP wedge before it ever hits the snow! Crazy the factory isn't doing this to fix their poor engineering SNAFU.

I have the greatest respect for your opinion and mechanical experience. I brought my sled to the dealer and I asked specifically to check the shaft as my sled is still under warranty. What I was told was the shaft had no wear. The did change a bushing in the chain case.
In 2 weeks I will be traveling to Lebanon PA to visit a friend, I will pick up a wedge at BOP and install as per your instructions on how to do it right. I'm not much of a mechanic but your instruction are straight forward. The thing is, if I added the wedge from the beginning that would have voided the warranty, I still have another year to go on that. I hope you can understand what position that puts me in...being the day after warranty expiration I have a toasted shaft come to find out and if its worn now and I add the wedge then good buy free fix. I think they call this a conundrum...Mike, thanks for the picture, explanation and proper instructions on installation. Joe

Ah, now it's making sense. The dealer saying the shaft has no wear..... I'm sure they took it apart to check it...... NOT!

I'd be willing to bet the shaft is beyond using a wedge on it now. With that many miles on it, I'd bet is has major wear on it. Perhaps .020-030"+ slip fit or so. IMO it's beyond the wedge at this point Joe.

I wouldn't let the dealer touch anything on my sleds, you have to check this stuff yourself, I had the dealer warranty my shaft at 2300 miles but did the work myself! Yep, my shaft was toast at 2300 miles and the BOP saver wouldn't have fixed it IMO. It was at almost .020" slip fit and worn tapered to the outside. Tried the old set screw trick thru the shaft and green loctite and still spun. Only real fix is new shaft and BOP wedge.

 

[sideshowBob]

^^^^^
Could not agree more!

 

[NYTurbo]

Not sure I follow you here. Inserting a collar into a bearing does not make it a smaller bearing. Ball bearings in this bearing are the exact same size as a std 6009 bearing so it will distribute the load no different than the stock bearing.

THanks for clearing this up, was not aware you actual machined a hardened race to accept the collar. Hopefully this is a solution that will work .

 

[Turboflash]

This was just posted by a guy over on HCS:

"I’m a new Tcat owner, a 2023. I stopped in at a Yamaha dealership the other day and was told that in the 2023 sidewinder models that the both the top gear bushing issue and the driveshaft brake side bearing issue have been resolved. This was told to me by a mechanic that had just performed a track swap on a 23 SRX and had noticed the changes."

When I asked what they supposedly did to fix these problems here was his reply:

"The tech told me the top gear bushing is longer and made of a different material. The drive shaft bearing is now pressed on the drive shaft. He said it’s a real bugger to get off now. That’s all I really have, this is what he told me. He had just sealed it up that morning, otherwise he was going to show me."

IF this really happened, it's amazing. Someone will have to verify this.

 

[RAMSOMAIR]

Great if it did happen but I'm gonna call BS

 

[rtx moose]

The inner ring the bearing is supposed to set against i believe has some importance - Given how sloppy everything is, i imagine it keeps that shaft somewhat aligned. I may feel different if it was pressed together with much tighter tolerances.

The tunnel seal offers very little protection. Sure it keeps debris and water off the bearing a bit but On the axys and matryx sleds - on the clutch side in the tunnel - both jack and driveshaft bearing seals are fully exposed.

MS

Yea and that's why there bearings always fail too

 

[Sevey]

This was just posted by a guy over on HCS:

"I’m a new Tcat owner, a 2023. I stopped in at a Yamaha dealership the other day and was told that in the 2023 sidewinder models that the both the top gear bushing issue and the driveshaft brake side bearing issue have been resolved. This was told to me by a mechanic that had just performed a track swap on a 23 SRX and had noticed the changes."

When I asked what they supposedly did to fix these problems here was his reply:

"The tech told me the top gear bushing is longer and made of a different material. The drive shaft bearing is now pressed on the drive shaft. He said it’s a real bugger to get off now. That’s all I really have, this is what he told me. He had just sealed it up that morning, otherwise he was going to show me."

IF this really happened, it's amazing. Someone will have to verify this.

The drive bearing in the caliper housing is now pressed on the shaft?

Interesting…….

I was talking to a Yamaha head office guy at the Toronto sled show and he indicated the shafts are made from a much harder material now - which he claimed solved the problem……. I think it would be a step in the right direction , but I doubt it would solve it- just maybe delay the problem from starting .

Ms

 

[sailor joe]

Bingo,
When my new SRX comes in it will get a BOP wedge before it ever hits the snow! Crazy the factory isn't doing this to fix their poor engineering SNAFU.





Ah, now it's making sense. The dealer saying the shaft has no wear..... I'm sure they took it apart to check it...... NOT!

I'd be willing to bet the shaft is beyond using a wedge on it now. With that many miles on it, I'd bet is has major wear on it. Perhaps .020-030"+ slip fit or so. IMO it's beyond the wedge at this point Joe.

I wouldn't let the dealer touch anything on my sleds, you have to check this stuff yourself, I had the dealer warranty my shaft at 2300 miles but did the work myself! Yep, my shaft was toast at 2300 miles and the BOP saver wouldn't have fixed it IMO. It was at almost .020" slip fit and worn tapered to the outside. Tried the old set screw trick thru the shaft and green loctite and still spun. Only real fix is new shaft and BOP wedge.

thanks Mike for clarity, the dealer said they have changed out a bunch of worn shafts under warranty. I got to get a second opinion with another mechanic who can take the assembly apart and check and if need be get a new shaft under warranty or just put in the new shaft saver from BOP. Im half tempted to bring my sled with me to Lebanon and ask Travis to check it out, unfortunately it's 300 miles each way. I need a good mechanic close by to where I live, near Foxboro Mass. Anyone know of a good sled tech. in that area, please let me know!! Joe

 

[tsiceman]

thanks Mike for clarity, the dealer said they have changed out a bunch of worn shafts under warranty. I got to get a second opinion with another mechanic who can take the assembly apart and check and if need be get a new shaft under warranty or just put in the new shaft saver from BOP. Im half tempted to bring my sled with me to Lebanon and ask Travis to check it out, unfortunately it's 300 miles each way. I need a good mechanic close by to where I live, near Foxboro Mass. Anyone know of a good sled tech. in that area, please let me know!! Joe

Like Knapp said just put drive shave saver in and you will be good, do you you really trust tryst Yamacat at this poInt!

 

[sailor joe]

Like Knapp said just put drive shave saver in and you will be good, do you you really trust tryst Yamacat at this poInt!

I will get the shaft saver. I do trust Knapp and Travis's advise. It does seem it took Cat too long to fix the shaft problem and others. I do love my Sidewinder, so much fun to ride!! Joe

 

[Shagnos]

yes, check the shaft first for wear as BOP has pictures of what degrees of wear look like. My Sidewinder has 4750 miles on it and no shaft wear. I guess I'm just lucky so far. Anyone else out there without shaft wear? just wondering what percentage of bad shafts are out there. Joe

6500 miles with no shaft wear. Removed and repacked the bearing every 2000 miles. Used sleeve retainer to lock it down.