sailor joe
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2020 SIDEWINDER GT
Sleeve retainer? Not sure what you mean and what you did to stop the race spinning.6500 miles with no shaft wear. Removed and repacked the bearing every 2000 miles. Used sleeve retainer to lock it down.
Shagnos
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Loctite sleeve retainer. Actually it's been apart 5 times in 6500 miles so more than every 2000 miles.Sleeve retainer? Not sure what you mean and what you did to stop the race spinning.
Had to pull the bearing off every time. I'm a little anal. Just installed the new BOP solution so I
can let it go a bit further now. Was always paranoid about it failing on a trip. The season is short.
earthling
Lifetime Member
I got someone from Yamaha to actually engage in a chat on FB. I asked about the top bushing, jackshaft, and bearing fit.
"Yes on new top bushing (2023). Jackshaft and front axle is hardened (2023), no press fit bearing on driveshaft"
The new top gear part number is in the parts fiche, the front axle has a new part number as well for 2023. The part number for the axle is the same in 2022/2021.
"Yes on new top bushing (2023). Jackshaft and front axle is hardened (2023), no press fit bearing on driveshaft"
The new top gear part number is in the parts fiche, the front axle has a new part number as well for 2023. The part number for the axle is the same in 2022/2021.
hibshman25
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2018 snoscoot
Guess we need to get someone to take a file to a 23 axle and see if it is any harder. May try and see if I can order one in to test.I got someone from Yamaha to actually engage in a chat on FB. I asked about the top bushing, jackshaft, and bearing fit.
"Yes on new top bushing (2023). Jackshaft and front axle is hardened (2023), no press fit bearing on driveshaft"
The new top gear part number is in the parts fiche, the front axle has a new part number as well for 2023. The part number for the axle is the same in 2022/2021.
jonlafon1
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Getting ready to install this. Interested in the seal you used. Any chance you or anyone else can post a link on the seal you used? Thanksi installed this new bearing setup yesterday, im not sure what exactly this sled likes more about this rather than the wedge but , the bearing does not move out or pop the clip out of caliper housing like it did with the wedge, im hoping this issue is put to bed for me! i was able to put a new dirt seal in by maneuvering threw hole , (keeping driveshaft in sled),obviously time will tell more but so far id say its a win
Turboflash
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- '17 ZR9000 Ltd. 137 - PEFI Stage 4
I don't care how hard they make the shaft - it doesn't solve the real root cause of the problem!
Turboflash
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Getting ready to install this. Interested in the seal you used. Any chance you or anyone else can post a link on the seal you used? Thanks
Seal: 54 x 65 x 8. (https://www.motionindustries.com/products/sku/00769416)
CR SEALS (SKF)54X65X8 CRW1 R
Single Lip Oil Seal - Solid, 54 mm Shaft, 65 mm OD, 8 mm Width, CRW1 Design, Nitrile Rubber (NBR) Lip Material
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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65mm od? Doesn't look like it will fit thru the tunnel or am I wrong? Are you guys pulling driveshaft then just to install said seal?
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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Two seasons ago new driveshaft and bearing went in with BOP original wedge installed flush and torqued to 65ft lbs. Had to tap wedge in due to the tighter fit on new shaft. Well had fun getting it apart. Had to split caliper and use a make shift puller to get bearing off shaft after getting the stuck wedge removed from shaft.
That required removal of speedo rubber plug with magnets on it to drive wedge out. Bolt was removed from wedge, wedge unlocked then I dropped a 5/16 socket thru bolt hole to go between parts of wedge so it was able to drive out of shaft from chaincase side.
Caliper, disc and shaft all look good but the bearing is rough. I have this new bearing from Travis on the way.
Pics for fun.
Trying to decide on going back together with just a new bearing and wedge or install new style bearing and wedge or no wedge.
That required removal of speedo rubber plug with magnets on it to drive wedge out. Bolt was removed from wedge, wedge unlocked then I dropped a 5/16 socket thru bolt hole to go between parts of wedge so it was able to drive out of shaft from chaincase side.
Caliper, disc and shaft all look good but the bearing is rough. I have this new bearing from Travis on the way.
Pics for fun.
Trying to decide on going back together with just a new bearing and wedge or install new style bearing and wedge or no wedge.
Turboflash
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- '17 ZR9000 Ltd. 137 - PEFI Stage 4
This came from Travis not long ago:65mm od? Doesn't look like it will fit thru the tunnel or am I wrong? Are you guys pulling driveshaft then just to install said seal?
"Stock seal is 45x65x8. Collar was spec'd to 54mm OD as you can get a 54x65x8 seal."
So the thought was to use the stock plate that holds the seal inside the tunnel. If stock seal is 45 x 65 x 8 and new collar is 54 mm OD, then a new seal would have to be 65 mm OD x 54 mm ID x 8 mm wide. Then, you should be able to just install new dimension seal in that plate with the 3 holes in it and install. The new seal should seal to the OD of the collar and seal into plate same as stock.
Is this not correct?
Turboflash
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Yes, that new seal would fit the stock 3-hole plate inside tunnel. If you don't want to use a new seal, all you really need to do is cut old seal out and leave plate in there.65mm od? Doesn't look like it will fit thru the tunnel or am I wrong? Are you guys pulling driveshaft then just to install said seal?
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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This came from Travis not long ago:
"Stock seal is 45x65x8. Collar was spec'd to 54mm OD as you can get a 54x65x8 seal."
So the thought was to use the stock plate that holds the seal inside the tunnel. If stock seal is 45 x 65 x 8 and new collar is 54 mm OD, then a new seal would have to be 65 mm OD x 54 mm ID x 8 mm wide. Then, you should be able to just install new dimension seal in that plate with the 3 holes in it and install. The new seal should seal to the OD of the collar and seal into plate same as stock.
Is this not correct?
Sounds good but looks like I'll have to pull shaft to install seal. No big deal.
Still waiting for other parts for sled so I have the time to pull driveshaft out.
hibshman25
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The hole in outer layer of tunnel is 60mm, so the seal will not just slide in from the outside. I belive it was habs1 that managed to get a seal in from outside. I would not bother to pull drive shaft just to retain the seal. As you can see in photo once new bearing is installed the seal is almost entirely shielded from debris.Sounds good but looks like I'll have to pull shaft to install seal. No big deal.
Still waiting for other parts for sled so I have the time to pull driveshaft out.
Turboflash
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In case you're interested, about 2 years ago Travis posted a template for a puller that uses all 3 of the existing caliper housing holes. Plus, Arctic Cat has one too.Two seasons ago new driveshaft and bearing went in with BOP original wedge installed flush and torqued to 65ft lbs. Had to tap wedge in due to the tighter fit on new shaft. Well had fun getting it apart. Had to split caliper and use a make shift puller to get bearing off shaft after getting the stuck wedge removed from shaft.
That required removal of speedo rubber plug with magnets on it to drive wedge out. Bolt was removed from wedge, wedge unlocked then I dropped a 5/16 socket thru bolt hole to go between parts of wedge so it was able to drive out of shaft from chaincase side.
Caliper, disc and shaft all look good but the bearing is rough. I have this new bearing from Travis on the way.
Pics for fun.
View attachment 169948View attachment 169949View attachment 169950
Trying to decide on going back together with just a new bearing and wedge or install new style bearing and wedge or no wedge.
Attachments
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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Thanks!In case you're interested, about 2 years ago Travis posted a template for a puller that uses all 3 of the existing caliper housing holes. Plus, Arctic Cat has one too.
I figured I would just trace out the caliper on a piece of cardboard for a template and make one when I have time.
Never needed a puller before because the bearing always spun on shaft.
Looks like I will definitely need a puller moving fwd.
Thanks again!
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