kylechargerrt
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1998 MACH-Z
346 miles of abuse 8JP it came with still looks brand new. Way less belt dust than even the 8dn made in my viper
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Joe ltx-le
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is this stock clutch kit346 miles of abuse 8JP it came with still looks brand new. Way less belt dust than even the 8dn made in my viper
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kylechargerrt
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1998 MACH-Z
Yes. Thunder products kit going in as soon as it gets here
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Jeff Oatway
Newbie
I have a sidewinder with a TD250 flash with a set of thier weights. Since putting the flash in I have blown two belts 50 miles apart. cut them in two. Any suggestions on prevention?I run an RTX-LE
newtron
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I have a sidewinder with a TD250 flash with a set of thier weights. Since putting the flash in I have blown two belts 50 miles apart. cut them in two. Any suggestions on prevention?
What do your sheaves look like? Are there belt marks on the primary or secondary where it is probably slipping?
justin1620
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Check your secondary rollers...I bet they have flat spots, mine did after 60 miles...replace with arctic car rollers or ulmer racing rollers....check belt deflection and offset....a lot of guys run an 8dn belt seems to be a stronger belt ..all you have to do is add 1/16" washer to you other shims on your secondaryI have a sidewinder with a TD250 flash with a set of thier weights. Since putting the flash in I have blown two belts 50 miles apart. cut them in two. Any suggestions on prevention?
**sj**
Lifetime Member
I'll share my advice... Ditch the gates carbon.. Is a cute belt but not in this league... Run the 8dn.... It's a reference belt....
Curved weights are more prone to belt blowing than flat weights... You need force to match the torque band of the motor which is flat ...
Dial up your secondary spring or go to a stiffer spring yet...
And of course, if your rollers have flat spots... There's the main culprit... If you are binding then slamming , slack and then pull, you'll snap that cheap belt like nothing.
And for those turned up... I'd be seriously looking at shimming you primary..
Curved weights are more prone to belt blowing than flat weights... You need force to match the torque band of the motor which is flat ...
Dial up your secondary spring or go to a stiffer spring yet...
And of course, if your rollers have flat spots... There's the main culprit... If you are binding then slamming , slack and then pull, you'll snap that cheap belt like nothing.
And for those turned up... I'd be seriously looking at shimming you primary..
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Turbo Dynamics
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I have customers with many miles on the stock 8jp boosted. And many of them with the 8dn also.I'll share my advice... Ditch the gates carbon.. Is a cute belt but not in this league... Run the 8dn.... It's a reference belt....
Curved weights are more prone to belt blowing than flat weights... You need force to match the torque band of the motor which is flat ...
Dial up your secondary spring or go to a stiffer spring yet...
And of course, if your rollers have flat spots... There's the main culprit... If you are binding then slamming , slack and then pull, you'll snap that cheap belt like nothing.
And for those turned up... I'd be seriously looking at shimming you primary..
Jeff has another issue.. Rollers... Bad bushings (binding) secondary clutch does not have enough torsion etc.
Btw bone stock sleds have been reported to blow belts as well.
I'm wondering how many blown belts can be attributed to the air filters dripping with oil?
dsimonRX1
Pro
I have a sidewinder with a TD250 flash with a set of thier weights. Since putting the flash in I have blown two belts 50 miles apart. cut them in two. Any suggestions on prevention?
I have 100 miles on the same setup so far. Clutches seem to be running cool and little belt dust. Will be putting a lot of miles on next weekend and I hope there are no issues.
Turbo Dynamics
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Ok Jeff here's what you have to do.I have a sidewinder with a TD250 flash with a set of thier weights. Since putting the flash in I have blown two belts 50 miles apart. cut them in two. Any suggestions on prevention?
Switch to the 8DN and shim the secondary so the belt has the proper deflection.
Also check the torsion in your secondary. I've had success so far with stock 3-3 configuration but I've seen some secondary come with looser settings. That could be your problem (swallowing belt). Try increasing torsion to prevent belt from dropping too fast in secondary.
Clean your clutches with acetone to removing potential oil contaminate and clean rubber off.
Make sure no snow gets to your clutches (ie broken belly pan and running in deep powder)
What gearing do you have? Too short of a gear (btx and mountain) means you can max then out quick with a tuned sled. Running with gears maxed out is hard on belts.
There are more advanced things to check if the above dont work but I bet you will find the problem.
There is also a possibility you damaged the bushing in the primary cover when you reinstalled it which can cause weird shifting behavior. I would inspect that.
Turbo Dynamics
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I have customers with over 1000 miles on the same belt. That customer has 2 sleds both TD ecotrail with td turboforce and the Dalton weights. Lots of other customers with similar mileage has well.I have 100 miles on the same setup so far. Clutches seem to be running cool and little belt dust. Will be putting a lot of miles on next weekend and I hope there are no issues.
The type of use makes a huge difference.
Jeff are you doing off trail stuff?
Jeff Oatway
Newbie
ya i am sure it s not the boost i took clutches of this mornging and all looked good put new rollers in no oil on belt i was on good going it broks into a a steady speed the gearing is 21 41 i believe its a 137 no snow was in it so just not sure going to check aligmentOk Jeff here's what you have to do.
Switch to the 8DN and shim the secondary so the belt has the proper deflection.
Also check the torsion in your secondary. I've had success so far with stock 3-3 configuration but I've seen some secondary come with looser settings. That could be your problem (swallowing belt). Try increasing torsion to prevent belt from dropping too fast in secondary.
Clean your clutches with acetone to removing potential oil contaminate and clean rubber off.
Make sure no snow gets to your clutches (ie broken belly pan and running in deep powder)
What gearing do you have? Too short of a gear (btx and mountain) means you can max then out quick with a tuned sled. Running with gears maxed out is hard on belts.
There are more advanced things to check if the above dont work but I bet you will find the problem.
There is also a possibility you damaged the bushing in the primary cover when you reinstalled it which can cause weird shifting behavior. I would inspect that.
Beerman
I can actually hear myself getting fatter
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Hey Ben, I have your EcoTrail package in a RTX and just popped a 8Jp that had 375 miles on it, was going wide open down icy road for a good 1/2 mile, maybe longer, hit 112 mph on GPS and blammo. Clutches were pretty hot. Going to look everything over real close, clean them, and switching to 8DN to see what happens.I have customers with over 1000 miles on the same belt. That customer has 2 sleds both TD ecotrail with td turboforce and the Dalton weights. Lots of other customers with similar mileage has well.
The type of use makes a huge difference.
Jeff are you doing off trail stuff?
Turbo Dynamics
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Seems like the 8jp is a good belt for short burst of acceleration. Or at least a break in between blasts like our testing.Hey Ben, I have your EcoTrail package in a RTX and just popped a 8Jp that had 375 miles on it, was going wide open down icy road for a good 1/2 mile, maybe longer, hit 112 mph on GPS and blammo. Clutches were pretty hot. Going to look everything over real close, clean them, and switching to 8DN to see what happens.
8dn is more tolerant to heat and abuse.
When you guys install your adjustable weights make sure you are carefully pulling the primary cover. It is very easy to damage the bushing.
When you say 112mph was that speedo or gps?
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