mytro
Expert
Roest said:Last bolt I took out broke 3 threads down. The drive axle and collar were changed for 2010 and none of the 2010s are breaking. That leads me to believe that adding the spacer may cure the problem as it mimics the parts relationship for 2010.
This might have been answered but what it caused it to break? Mine was fine after 2400 miles, and it went back in..
AttakDog
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Just looked at my bolt again, it broke right at the shoulder. I didn't know about the spacer and I am sure it was discussed before but can you give me the details on the size of it, i would like to put it in for piece of mind. Thanks Roest.
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
The specs I got from BCBOOST were 19.9mm OD, 4.90mm long, with a hole through the middle to accomodate the 10mm bolt. I went to ACE hardware and used 3 metric washers stacked together....2 hardened 10mm washers and 1 thin 10mm spring washer. The OD of the spring washer was too big but I filed it down. Hope that makes sense.
swe_mike
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Hi Do you have pis on it? i dont understand it, how it looks.
Roest said:The specs I got from BCBOOST were 19.9mm OD, 4.90mm long, with a hole through the middle to accomodate the 10mm bolt. I went to ACE hardware and used 3 metric washers stacked together....2 hardened 10mm washers and 1 thin 10mm spring washer. The OD of the spring washer was too big but I filed it down. Hope that makes sense.
Zakre
TY 4 Stroke Guru
So no one knows the new P/N? I have been looking and am not having much luck.
The new part number was posted already. I wouldn't bother with any spacers ect, just stick the 2010 bolt in it.
Anyway there is usually a bit of threadlocker on it so if it doesn't want to come at first with the easy out(don't break the thing off) apply heat with a propane torch and keep pressure on it until it moves.
Anyway there is usually a bit of threadlocker on it so if it doesn't want to come at first with the easy out(don't break the thing off) apply heat with a propane torch and keep pressure on it until it moves.
Zakre
TY 4 Stroke Guru
jd0270 said:The new part number was posted already. I wouldn't bother with any spacers ect, just stick the 2010 bolt in it.
Anyway there is usually a bit of threadlocker on it so if it doesn't want to come at first with the easy out(don't break the thing off) apply heat with a propane torch and keep pressure on it until it moves.
Lol i missed that part of the post i read the whole spacer thing, thanks Roest!
swe_mike
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Roest said:According to BCBOOST the spacer cures the problem. Its not that the spacer keeps the bolt from bottoming out in the driveshaft, rather that without the spacer the collar bore does not meet the end of the driveshaft. Its shy by about 5mm and thus the collar presses against the part Yamaha calls a "journal". Just installed spacer on a friends sled. It hasn't been ridden so time will tell. As far as mine....I don't have reverse.
HIHGLITE
Old bolt p/n 90105-10320-00
New bolt p/n 90105-10368-00
HIGHLITE
If you missed it


nor'easter
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Can you determine from riding your sled if the bolt has been broken? Is there any noticeable drop in power, hesitation, or noise associated with a broken bolt?
Next, does the chain case cover need to be removed to see the condition of this bolt?
If possible, an actual picture of the bolt attached to the sled would be of help. Thanks
Next, does the chain case cover need to be removed to see the condition of this bolt?
If possible, an actual picture of the bolt attached to the sled would be of help. Thanks
AttakDog
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Don't have a pic, you can see it on the Microfiche thoughnor'easter said:Can you determine from riding your sled if the bolt has been broken? Is there any noticeable drop in power, hesitation, or noise associated with a broken bolt?
NO
Next, does the chain case cover need to be removed to see the condition of this bolt?
YES
If possible, an actual picture of the bolt attached to the sled would be of help. Thanks
yamahabandit
Expert
No you couldn't tell if bolt is broken and there is no danger from broken bolt damaging internals. Everything is held together by the case and broken part of bolt is contained inside the housing.nor'easter said:Can you determine from riding your sled if the bolt has been broken? Is there any noticeable drop in power, hesitation, or noise associated with a broken bolt?
Next, does the chain case cover need to be removed to see the condition of this bolt?
If possible, an actual picture of the bolt attached to the sled would be of help. Thanks
The cover would have to be removed to see the broken bolt. Sled will drive a long time with the bolt broken.



bitchnblue09
Pro
broken bolt
Would this be a warranty issue?? Would this be covered under the Y.E.S. program?? i have bout 3200 on my 09 xtx, wondering if I should let it ride or take it apart and change it, or take it in and have Yamaha do it under warranty if u guys think its covered?? Thanks alot !!!
Would this be a warranty issue?? Would this be covered under the Y.E.S. program?? i have bout 3200 on my 09 xtx, wondering if I should let it ride or take it apart and change it, or take it in and have Yamaha do it under warranty if u guys think its covered?? Thanks alot !!!
Dimebag
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When opening the chaincase yesterday i found the broken bolt here also
(08 RTX w. reverse with 5000 KMs). I am planning to run without the bolt.
Had the chaincase opened a year ago, at 2000 KMs. But then it was Okey.
I guess it will do more harm to leave it in there, as i could se marks in the chaincase cover from the bolt already.
(08 RTX w. reverse with 5000 KMs). I am planning to run without the bolt.
Had the chaincase opened a year ago, at 2000 KMs. But then it was Okey.
I guess it will do more harm to leave it in there, as i could se marks in the chaincase cover from the bolt already.
Sask Attak
Expert
Do the 2010's do this?
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
Sask Attak said:Do the 2010's do this?
No, parts have changed.
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