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Chaincase removal and inspection

Kodak, I can chime in and say.....I have heard of 1 instance where the oil tank, lines and oil did not have to be removed..... But I can tell you truthfully it is very hard to do as I have tried it and finally got to the point where I said "PISS ON IT!!!"

The oil tank can stay attached to the chaincase cover as I recommend you do not remove it from the cover. There isn't a gasket inbetween the 2 and you have to seal it again with a type of gasket sealer.

Once the cover/oil tank is out you can loosen up the chain but to be honest once again, I think you can take off the clip that holds on the bottom gears, but since it's that far I would just remove everything in the chaincase to inspect.
 

Thanks nos will do :rocks:
Could this be the point where the top speed is being lost? Gears binding or use of a bushing instead of a needle bearing causing unwanted friction.
Or the top of the drive system not being lubricated enough.?
 
Could this be the point where the top speed is being lost? Gears binding or use of a bushing instead of a needle bearing causing unwanted friction.
Or the top of the drive system not being lubricated enough.?

Hoping it is just the Ratio that is holding us MODDED guys back. Otherwise Horsepower and lots of it solves everything!
 
decided to post questions here since info can stay in one place. Canondale I am looking to do least possible to get track out since I only have 900 km and service was not that long ago .can I not take off oil cover and remove gear case as one piece and can I get away with only letting bottom gear go to remove the axel

Yes you can get tank/case out of way enough without removing oil lines. I agree with NosPro it is hell on the lines and a pain to do it that way. But have seen it done many times. I believe there will be enough slack in chain to allow bottom gear only removal.
 
I guess you have to weigh the cost of a couple litres of oil versus the chance of dropping the washer off the end of the countershaft and not noticing it, plus the more than likely extra time and frustration of working in a very tight area with the oil tank/chain case cover being hard to move more than an inch and a half or so.
 
@ 3800 miles i had complete failure of chaincase . wobble bearing and jack shaft bearing went. totally took out the entire chaincase.
oil was changed early in season and chain checked also..
all happened very quickly.
yamaha fixing it all now.
second time the viper let me down while away riding.
stock muffler blew a part in canada.
now this..
yamaha has been very good with fixing it all and covering towing bills and on trail repair muffler to get back to truck 500 miles away
 
Update on top gear. At 5500mi or so it is worn again. Chain was run at 1.5 turns out the entire life of this gear. Replacing. Try warranty again. Either way dont chance it. This gear must mesh properly with gear it slides into. If not is start of major damage. Gear is cheap $20 or so but turn it in anyway since Yamaha needs to know about this issue and hopefully make it better.
DSC00692.JPG
 
Blew my top chaincase bearing out this week at 5650 miles. Yamaha does not have the top seal in stock--it is on national B.O. I went to the cat shop and they had it all in stock--yes it is the same stuff.
One thing that was kind of cool was on the bags for the bearings and seal they gave the dimensions of the part so you could cross reference the size.
 
Blew my top chaincase bearing out this week at 5650 miles. Yamaha does not have the top seal in stock--it is on national B.O. I went to the cat shop and they had it all in stock--yes it is the same stuff.
One thing that was kind of cool was on the bags for the bearings and seal they gave the dimensions of the part so you could cross reference the size.

Did you see the stronger replacement bearing Mr Sled Posted? Its going in mine when tunnel is swapped.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/busted-chaincase.134857/page-3
 
I didn't but after reading some posts about the bearing failure I fear I may have over tightened my chain.........
 
I didn't but after reading some posts about the bearing failure I fear I may have over tightened my chain.........
I fear Yamaha got the 14 Owners manual wrong. Oops thats right. They DID get it wrong. Call them out on it if questioned. All it would have taken was a simple correction mailed to all the owners. In beginning I went by the book too. Was what we always did. I bet they will cover it.
 
Update on top gear. At 5500mi or so it is worn again. Chain was run at 1.5 turns out the entire life of this gear. Replacing. Try warranty again. Either way dont chance it. This gear must mesh properly with gear it slides into. If not is start of major damage. Gear is cheap $20 or so but turn it in anyway since Yamaha needs to know about this issue and hopefully make it better.
View attachment 107194

cannondale is that gear not locked to the shaft in 1:1 other than reverse.
If thats the case it's either a lot of reverse, lack of lubrication or really shitty material in the Brg.
 
cannondale is that gear not locked to the shaft in 1:1 other than reverse.
If thats the case it's either a lot of reverse, lack of lubrication or really shitty material in the Brg.
Yes it is locked. Really shitty material in bearing. Cant take the load. Is to big a job to be experimenting with materials. Could ruin shaft also if wrong. I would like to try a bushing with a DLC coating. You will find yours to be in same condition with 2500mi or more.
http://www.richterprecision.com/dlc-coatings.html
 


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