Check the backside of your sidewinder clutch

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Seeing a lot of these coming in lately and the owners have been complaining about blowing belts.

If you smack your clutch puller hard enough, it will push the snub shaft in. If you blow a belt bad enough, it will push the snub shaft in.

Easy check - look behind your primary clutch to see if you have clearance between the bolt heads holding the snub shaft block and the backside of the primary clutch. You should have .060-.075" (roughly a 1/16")

If your clutch is rubbing the bolt heads, your snub shaft has moved in causing belt blowing issues.

See pics

SW snub marks.jpg

snub pushed in.jpg
 
So, is it the jolt from the sliding sheave smacking the fixed sheave under extreme load when the belt is absent?

I had looked into this a bit last winter. There is a bit of clearance between the PTO stub shaft and end of crank. If one was to put some shim washers inside the PTO stub to take up this space then the stub is bottomed out on the end of the crank and can't physically slide in.
 
So, is it the jolt from the sliding sheave smacking the fixed sheave under extreme load when the belt is absent?

I had looked into this a bit last winter. There is a bit of clearance between the PTO stub shaft and end of crank. If one was to put some shim washers inside the PTO stub to take up this space then the stub is bottomed out on the end of the crank and can't physically slide in.

Wouldn't that introduce a side load on the crank bearings when a belt is blown? Not sure if it would be a problem or not but I was under the impression that a big part of the reason they used the PTO stub is to prevent side load on the crank from the clutch.
 
Wouldn't that introduce a side load on the crank bearings when a belt is blown? Not sure if it would be a problem or not but I was under the impression that a big part of the reason they used the PTO stub is to prevent side load on the crank from the clutch.

My concern too is the shaft is designed to absorb impact, however if the stub shaft is moving 3mm as indicated I suspect there is now no more gap internally and the shock still reaches the crank.

Just curious to hear what others think on the matter.
 
I had this problem. bearing had moved almost 3mm . I have put it back where it belong.

It is now weld whit green locktight.... ;)!
View attachment 156678

That's a great picture that shows exactly what to look for once the clutch if removed.

Thanks for posting.
 
If the Loctite holds problem solved. Haven’t heard of any with this issue having it reoccurring after loctiting. If it does we will have to pin the bearing,tig weld it in place,pin it or make a ring for back of bearing that’s screwed or welded into place.
 
If the Loctite holds problem solved. Haven’t heard of any with this issue having it reoccurring after loctiting. If it does we will have to pin the bearing,tig weld it in place,pin it or make a ring for back of bearing that’s screwed or welded into place.

External snap ring....if space permits
 
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Would have to go on inside. Not much of a lip left when bearing is bottomed. .053in or 1.35mm.
View attachment 156689 View attachment 156690

You're right ...not enough room ...which if there was, a internal snap ring would secure the bearing movement.
However ,by securing the bearing movement within the hub, the snub shaft can still move inboard which is the same condition for clutch positioning.
"No Chicken Dinner because this ain't a Winner".......keep on brain storming.......
 
You're right ...not enough room ...which if there was, a internal snap ring would secure the bearing movement.
However ,by securing the bearing movement within the hub, the snub shaft can still move inboard which is the same condition for clutch positioning.
"No Chicken Dinner because this ain't a Winner".......keep on brain storming.......
As far as I know the stub shaft moving in bearing is not the issue just bearing in housing. But I bet your right. That would move next.
 
Mine has also moved in and going to fix. Is it easy to remove, and how if not? Obviously, unbolt but does it just pull out easy?
 
Comes off the engine easy. Maybe a couple taps on the edge of the housing to get it moving. I had a machine shop press the bearing out so I could loctite it. I waited at the front of the shop while his press was at the back. Pretty loud bang when it popped out. Must be immense force for this stuff to move around when the belt blows.
 


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