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Check your chain

Thats great life out of a chain! I could only get 1000-2000 miles on my boosted apex chains. hard hard riding, with lots of jumps though. They would stretch so far they would stand out straight when holding in my hand!
Who did the machining on your shaft to place the pin and notch the bearing?
MS
franksmotorcyclesales.com .they recondition shafts that are sent in to them.The service managers are either Kamran Pelkey or Lester.there phone number is 802-878-3930 I attached a recent email from him last spring.‍♂️ F604953A-9B1C-497D-BDFC-09BFB2FFC7CE.png
F604953A-9B1C-497D-BDFC-09BFB2FFC7CE.png
They are located in Essex Juntion VT.
 
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35 ft/lbs

I grease the outside of the McWedgy and the ramps, lightly oil the treads and full insert. Then torque to 45~50 ft/lbs. More than likely it wasn’t grabbing the shaft.


How did you make the wear plate secure? That grooving really bugs me!

It’s just a piece of heavy gauge stainless that’s in front of the pads protecting the caliper. I made it so it’s captivated between the two halves, you need to split the caliper to get it in. I can get you a pic when I get the sled out of storage.
 
Quite possible it wasn't tightened enough. I went by feel, and thought maybe it was good at 35. Gonna go by your suggestion next time.
I would go further. Remove the driveshaft and using a new bearing which you put in caliper after do it on the bench making a visible mark on bolt and wedge. Then when you put it in sled match the mark. Then you know. Trying to torque it and feel it tighten is not easily done in sled.
 
So, I sent my driveshaft to the shop in VT. They called and said mine was on the edge of being able to be fixed. They think they can fix it though. It measured 1.65". So, if yours is smaller than this, you may be out of luck. I ordered a complete shaft with cogs and all, and I have my fixed shaft coming. Dilemma, go with the brand new shaft and put the wedge in but use higher torque? Or, put the repaired shaft in with the keyway and wedge?
 
The new shafts have been reported to be a .002 “to .005”loose Fit, in a new upgraded bearing.I would want a pin to prevent spinning long term,peace of mind
 
Dingle balls, dingle balls, dingle all the way, oh what fun it is to ride......in my 300 horsepower sleigh!

:drink::drink::drink:
 
Got the new driveshaft today. Here's how the bearing fits. The BOP's wedge does not fit in the center.

You might want to have the new shaft chucked up in a lathe and skim cut the inside diameter. The rough finish on the inside is probably not the best for maintaining a tight fit with the McWedgy
 
Yes it can be done without splitting the caliper but it does take some patience.
My buddy takes his brake pads off which gives you an extra 1/4” or so. I have done the same and it does cut that patience thing in half!

Cannondale27 method is probably the best, but I have been just unsure about splitting it and having to bleed the system, whereas some have had problems with proper bleeding. If you do need to bleed, make sure you force it through from the bottom with brake bleed kit or, oil can, or other type of pressure bleed device. That works first time!
I've split my caliper a couple times and had zero issues bleeding the system. It was super easy.
 


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