I would. How are you weights setup?
subaru2006
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I'm new to clutching but learning fast. I think it 7 in the heels and 1 in the tip.
Subaru2006
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subaru2006
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OK had a chance to really look at the secondary and do see a slight more brown like the post you posted. How can fix that. Its not really dark. I'm riding now and can check this later and attempt what you say later tonight.
Subaru2006
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subaru2006
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My problem is more then likely fixed. Simple mistake.
Subaru2006
Subaru2006
Please don't leave us hanging. We all learn and all make mistakes.
I won't get to good test conditions until the weekend, but I did get into the field to test a bit. I'll have to get my rangefinder out and shoot from the bottom of the field to the fence, but I'd say around 200-250 yds. I can hit mid 70's in this stretch running the slight downhill direction. This is using as much of the clutch as in the lead picture. If I can't get any more shift then something is drastically wrong. Keep in mind I am going 0-75 then back to zero before hitting the fence
What I did: I polished the exposed part of the pockets that the spider pads ride in. I'd really like to split the clutch and do the entire pocket. This might help my high and abrubt engagement.
Currently running
8fp/3.5gr rivet, GWG and 2 shims
Secondary is BDX 46/40 helix pink spring wrapped 3 and 2. I don't trust the helix so I shimmed it. I did not like the fact that the pink spring would bind when using the belt change tool to spread the clutch.
So how hot is too hot?
I made several runs then it took me several minutes to get back into the yard, close the gate, put the wheels under and run inside. I found the primary to be plenty warm. I could lay my hand on it but not much more than a second.
What I did: I polished the exposed part of the pockets that the spider pads ride in. I'd really like to split the clutch and do the entire pocket. This might help my high and abrubt engagement.
Currently running
8fp/3.5gr rivet, GWG and 2 shims
Secondary is BDX 46/40 helix pink spring wrapped 3 and 2. I don't trust the helix so I shimmed it. I did not like the fact that the pink spring would bind when using the belt change tool to spread the clutch.
So how hot is too hot?
I made several runs then it took me several minutes to get back into the yard, close the gate, put the wheels under and run inside. I found the primary to be plenty warm. I could lay my hand on it but not much more than a second.
titanrcr
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You have a few things contributing to the high abrupt engagement, high primary spring pre-load and spring shims adding to that pre-load, 2.33 gear ratio and I believe you had your primary machined for O/D? The O/D machining creates more clearance down low in the primary or the engagement area. This tends to hit/grab the belt a little harder at engagement. It's possible that you still have some binding in the primary but it sounds like you have done enough cleaning to eliminate that.
I think I have more polishing to do if I can get the clutch separated. I'm thinking that my 3-2 wind might be a bit loose. It's closer to a 3-1 in reality due to drill location inaccuracy.
The changes from previous setup:
1) polished mid to upper range spider pockets
2) less wrap from 6-2 to 3-2
3) helix shimmed
The changes from previous setup:
1) polished mid to upper range spider pockets
2) less wrap from 6-2 to 3-2
3) helix shimmed
Dont hit that fence before I get there TD! Sounds like you are on the right track.
Here's what the clutches look like after the romp in the field up to 75 mph:
Looking back at my other pics it looks like the amount of face being used is the same so hard to gauge if anything has changed. If they keep shifting on a longer stretch I know I am making progress.
Looking back at my other pics it looks like the amount of face being used is the same so hard to gauge if anything has changed. If they keep shifting on a longer stretch I know I am making progress.
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The primary machined for OD has not changed the belt side clearance. We pay special attention to that to make sure it is still a smooth delivery/take off at engagement.
TD what is your engagement at with the Ulmer OPO and 50Y weights as set from us? 3600 to 3800?
I'd say yes that sounds about right but hard to bring up RPM smooth due to engine control.
I can retest if you like.
I can retest if you like.
subaru2006
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Are you still using ulmers setup or did you change? The reason I ask is our sleds are different models but clutching appears the same problems.
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TD, I made 2 videos last night about engagement and how the clutch should move. The other video shows my clutch moving in at 2,700-2,800 (no belt), but by the time my thumb reacts to the clutch movement, my tach recall shows 3,400. Had the sled out last night driving around the backyard at 3,000-3,200 just to see if i could.
1 video is on Youtube and the other wouldn't download this morning.
Also, my sled has a bumble right at 2,900 and sounds like a little popping (not enough fuel) which shows on my PC5 AFR gauge. Right after that it revs up. Did it with the PC5, disconnected the PC5 and it seemed smoother but still a slight bumble
1 video is on Youtube and the other wouldn't download this morning.
Also, my sled has a bumble right at 2,900 and sounds like a little popping (not enough fuel) which shows on my PC5 AFR gauge. Right after that it revs up. Did it with the PC5, disconnected the PC5 and it seemed smoother but still a slight bumble
Presently running the 8FP setup. Very light wind on secondary.
I was thinking my clutch faces are clean, but this was short run and the more I look at them the more I think they are starting to build a thin layer of rubber already.
It is important to note that neither setup is showing to be much better than the other.
